Super 35 Issues

[BugoutJeep]

I slowly pieced together my Super 35 kit with ARB RD105 and Revolution DC-Dana 35-30 axles, and Revolution gears. I got my locker installed and gears setup, but before I installed the axlt tube seals and bearings, I test fit the axle shafts. 1 shaft will not fit, but is 30 splines. The other fit fine, I tried the other shaft on both sides of the locker and it wouldn't fit the splines on either side. The bearings in the kit from Revolution felt a bit loose on the shaft that fit, unlike the OEM bearings (old worn bearings).

I measured the OD of the splines and was getting .010" larger on the one that wouldn't fit. No burrs, but I think it measured like 1.290", I do not remember the exact measurement. I've reached out to Revolution and will call them later, but honestly I don't know what I've got. The shafts look to be of good quality, but honestly I'm not sure if any of the axles are even correct, because I'm not even sure how to confirm the shafts are 1541, unless maybe 4340, 1541 or just OEM replacement axles have different hardnesses I can check or other dimensions.

The seal kit that was in the box read AK3599, which does not seem to correlate with the Dana 35.

I'll probably call Revolution later today, but I'm about to just order another kit from a more reputable vendor and run it and figure this set out for spare parts. I got it off Amazon, but I'm outside of the return policy. I only test fit 1 of the shafts when I got the kit and it fit, so I didn't think much else about it. Wasn't sure if anyone had any technical info that I can confirm what I've got.

 

[Jacket4256]

I slowly pieced together my Super 35 kit with ARB RD105 and Revolution DC-Dana 35-30 axles, and Revolution gears. I got my locker installed and gears setup, but before I installed the axlt tube seals and bearings, I test fit the axle shafts. 1 shaft will not fit, but is 30 splines. The other fit fine, I tried the other shaft on both sides of the locker and it wouldn't fit the splines on either side. The bearings in the kit from Revolution felt a bit loose on the shaft that fit, unlike the OEM bearings (old worn bearings).

I measured the OD of the splines and was getting .010" larger on the one that wouldn't fit. No burrs, but I think it measured like 1.290", I do not remember the exact measurement. I've reached out to Revolution and will call them later, but honestly I don't know what I've got. The shafts look to be of good quality, but honestly I'm not sure if any of the axles are even correct, because I'm not even sure how to confirm the shafts are 1541, unless maybe 4340, 1541 or just OEM replacement axles have different hardnesses I can check or other dimensions.

The seal kit that was in the box read AK3599, which does not seem to correlate with the Dana 35.

I'll probably call Revolution later today, but I'm about to just order another kit from a more reputable vendor and run it and figure this set out for spare parts. I got it off Amazon, but I'm outside of the return policy. I only test fit 1 of the shafts when I got the kit and it fit, so I didn't think much else about it. Wasn't sure if anyone had any technical info that I can confirm what I've got.

I cant help with the fitment but definitely give amazon a call about sending it back they have been way more generous with the return policy as of late.

 

[BugoutJeep]

I cant help with the fitment but definitely give amazon a call about sending it back they have been way more generous with the return policy as of late.

Yeah, but I ordered this over a year ago and at this point what's another week gonna hurt. Hopefully they can give me some stuff to check. My biggest worry is the axle shaft material. I can check lengths, spline count, hardness and ODs pretty easily, but detailed 1541 vs chromoly, I just don't have unless there's something like hardness I can measure or maybe some kind of marking on the shaft.

 

[BugoutJeep]

I talked with Revolution Gear and they put me at ease. They claim they don't make any other 30 spline like that that's not 1541 and that my issue is common, just drive the shaft in. I've never had that experience to drive in a shaft, but I've only handled used axles and differentials.

 

[pc1p]

I talked with Revolution Gear and they put me at ease. They claim they don't make any other 30 spline like that that's not 1541 and that my issue is common, just drive the shaft in. I've never had that experience to drive in a shaft, but I've only handled used axles and differentials.

I helped a friend install some gears in his Dana 44 recently and he was running a brand-new Aussie locker in it. The shafts were super tight going in - requiring a few good whacks with a hammer and 2x4". Once it, everything seated nicely and would come out butter smooth.

 

[BugoutJeep]

I've installed 5 lockers, but no new shafts and I've been into a bunch of other differentials and never had to do more than a nice push, maybe while turning slight to get everything line up. I guess on IFS or FWD stuff, that had clips of some sort I had to smack them, but that was just how they were retained.

Apparently the seals and bearings were fine too and work for the Dana axle, but 1 seal was damaged, so I'm excited if all I have to get is a seal. I had been watching these shafts for years and they popped up for $150 and I ordered them and couldn't find anything wrong, but this is new to me. However it is comforting to find that this isn't unusual.

 

[blazem]

I helped a friend install some gears in his Dana 44 recently and he was running a brand-new Aussie locker in it. The shafts were super tight going in - requiring a few good whacks with a hammer and 2x4". Once it, everything seated nicely and would come out butter smooth.

Follow on question: I do my wheeling in the AZ deserts and mountain mining trails. I'm considering an Aussie locker in front (TJ Dana 30-) but am curious about how much steering sweep is lost when in low range or high range 4wd compared to in 2wd. Mostly concerned with tight switch backs while climbing or descending along these steep shelf trails.

 

[L J]

Follow on question: I do my wheeling in the AZ deserts and mountain mining trails. I'm considering an Aussie locker in front (TJ Dana 30-) but am curious about how much steering sweep is lost when in low range or high range 4wd compared to in 2wd. Mostly concerned with tight switch backs while climbing or descending along these steep shelf trails.

Increase of turning radius comes from a locked rear not a locked front. John Currie explains @2:00

 

[blazem]

Appreciate the quick response. Good info for Eaton hardware, thanks. Any comments on if Aussie locker 'push' in their own right. Trying to wrap my head around this Aussie locker statement:

"The Aussie Locker mechanism allows a wheel to turn faster than the speed of the differential that is driving it (differentiation), but never allows a wheel to turn slower than the speed the differential and engine is turning it (traction)."
From https://www.torqmasters.com/how_it_works

 

[pc1p]

Appreciate the quick response. Good info for Eaton hardware, thanks. Any comments on if Aussie locker 'push' in their own right. Trying to wrap my head around this Aussie locker statement:

"The Aussie Locker mechanism allows a wheel to turn faster than the speed of the differential that is driving it (differentiation), but never allows a wheel to turn slower than the speed the differential and engine is turning it (traction)."
From https://www.torqmasters.com/how_it_works

I believe what they are saying is that the wheel with the longer arc length (i.e. the "outside" tire in a turn) is allowed to differentiate (i.e. it unlocks) and turns faster to allow smooth turning. The wheel with the smaller arc length (i.e. the "inside" wheel) will never be slower than differential speed (i.e. it will stay locked and match the carrier speed).

 

[BugoutJeep]

I've had a Spartan locker in the rear of a ZJ which is AWD. In any tight turns it locks up every time and my wife likes to accelerate in turns and it will engage too.

My point is that in 4x4 I would expect that style to engage more often than I'd prefer in a higher traction environment than what I see in the mud. However maybe there's a difference between the super cheap lunch box locker I had more than a decade ago vs this aussie.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Appreciate the quick response. Good info for Eaton hardware, thanks. Any comments on if Aussie locker 'push' in their own right. Trying to wrap my head around this Aussie locker statement:

"The Aussie Locker mechanism allows a wheel to turn faster than the speed of the differential that is driving it (differentiation), but never allows a wheel to turn slower than the speed the differential and engine is turning it (traction)."
From https://www.torqmasters.com/how_it_works

Think of a ratchet wrench allowing the socket to be rotated faster via your fingers in the direction the wrench handle is being turned, but it is locked if you try to rotate the socket in the reverse (locked) direction. The outside wheel in a turn with an axle with an automatic locker can rotate faster in a forward direction than the inside tire does which eliminates tire chirp.

That said, if you're accelerating or decelerating hard using the engine to brake with a locker will have too much tension inside and it won't allow the outside tire to rotate faster through a turn which causes tire chirp. Neutral throttle usually allows the outside tire to unlock so it can rotate faster through the turn.

 

[Ephry73]

I may be piecing a kit together myself for this summer. I don't foresee going bigger than 33" tires for a long while and splurging on a 44(unless I can find something super cheap), is not really going to be practical for me.

 

[BugoutJeep]

Well so far my pieced together kit seems to be fine, but I may have messed up the pinion.

However I also had a known rust problem that I kicked down the road and duh, once I had a good jounce bumper, the perch really came apart and there's a popping noise in the rear. Not sure if it's coming from there or the diff. Because at this point I think I messed up my pinion bearings, I'm gonna install just the 1 perch and see if that was my popping noise and then I'm going to be changing my rear diff fluid often, looking for issues.

I don't think I removed enough material from my pinion and it was hitting the carrier once my pinion bearings started to wear, but I may have just messed up getting the preload right, or maybe I didn't use a proper pinion bearing that I picked up at the store and it was the correct size bearing, but maybe a lighter duty bearing. The shop didn't have one in stock but they traced the size only. In any case my pinion had to be trimmed from the beginning because it hit the carrier and I trimmed it just enough to clear, but I'm guessing I didn't clear trim enough, but the pinion had hit the carrier since, so that's not good.