ZJ Tie Rod Conversion

What drag link to go with the ZJ Tie Rod Conversion?

I read that the ZJ drag link is cheaper than the TJ and will work, but a little longer and causes difficulty with the steering dampener install, et. Al.

Just use the stock drag link. That's what everyone usually does.
 
Ok, so here's my parts list. If you see anything missing or incorrect, let me know. I'll be doing this ASAP.

Drag Link (Stock) NAPA#2696090
Tie Rod End (x2) NAPA#269-2788 Moog#ES3096L (1 at Pitman Arm and 1 at Driver's side wheel)
Adjusting Sleeve NAPA#269-1134 Moog#ES2079S
Tie Rod NAPA#269-6085 Moog#DS1312

Oh, and a pickle fork!
 
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This was my parts list:

IMG_6432.jpg
 
Thanks, the prices at NAPA have skyrocketed. TJ drag link $198, Tie Rod end $44, Tie Rod $83.

Too pricey. Amazon, here I come.

Anyone able to find the TJ Drag Link on Amazon? I can't seem to find it

Edit: These are all Moog parts...

Ok, I found it for $107, half the price of NAPA

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5406S/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
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FYI, the ZJ conversion with a TJ Drag Link is now costing about $300 on Amazon Prime if you get a new steering stabilizer as well.

There needs to be more clarity on what you need to do this conversion in the OP. Of course, I'm adding the Drag Link, so it could be added as an addendum

ES3095R Tie Rod End (x1)
ES3096L Tie Rod End (x2)
ES2079S Adjusting Sleeve (x1)
DS1312 Tie Rod End (which is your Tie Rod) (x1)
DS1430 Tie Rod End (which is your Drag Link) (x1)
Steering Stabilizer of your Choice
 
The drag link is not necessary, but doesn't hurt. Also, you can just reuse you stock steering stabilizer, so that's also another option if you find yourself wanting a new one.
 
The drag link is not necessary, but doesn't hurt. Also, you can just reuse you stock steering stabilizer, so that's also another option if you find yourself wanting a new one.
Yeah, I've got play where the Drag Link meets the passenger wheel. That's the reason I went for it...I am pretty sure it's the cause of my DW (see below). The steering sure is clunky wjhen I'm toed in 1/16".

Here's the interesting thing as I've been diagnosing DW. When I toe out, DW goes away. I concluded that geometrically a toe out will stabilize the drag link at the passenger wheel because it's longer and pushing out. When I got under the Jeep while someone steered wildly I could definitely see play there, as well as where the drag link meets the stock pitman arm. Well, this is what I hope solves it. Tanks for the thread to the original OP and to Chris for all the helpful How-To's. I'll report back after I get installed..
 
I actually read some pretty bad reviews. Some guys said it would be better to just get the Moog parts

The quality of moog has gone down hill over the years. I have no luck with their parts. Their trackbar pooped out on me within a few unabused thousand miles and turned brown after the first winter. It reminded me of Rough Country.

I had the crown HD steering and it was fine but nothing like Currie, which is on my TJ.
 
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@JMT, I updated the OPs post to offer more clarity (and the drag link option). I don't think @TJDave will mind!

Thanks for pointing this out!
 
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The quality of moog has gone down hill over the years. I have no luck with their parts. Their trackbar pooped out on me within a few unabused thousand miles and turned brown after the first winter. It reminded me of Rough Country.

I had the crown HD steering and it was fine but nothing like Currie, which is on my TJ.
Arrghh. Once again, Currie a safe way to go for sure. Hope these Moog are old school...
 
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Yeah, I've got play where the Drag Link meets the passenger wheel. That's the reason I went for it...I am pretty sure it's the cause of my DW (see below). The steering sure is clunky wjhen I'm toed in 1/16".

Here's the interesting thing as I've been diagnosing DW. When I toe out, DW goes away. I concluded that geometrically a toe out will stabilize the drag link at the passenger wheel because it's longer and pushing out. When I got under the Jeep while someone steered wildly I could definitely see play there, as well as where the drag link meets the stock pitman arm. Well, this is what I hope solves it. Tanks for the thread to the original OP and to Chris for all the helpful How-To's. I'll report back after I get installed..

This makes sense...Toe out is going to force the tires away from the vehicle centerline, and "tighten" any looseness that may be present. Since they are both pointing away from each other, the joint is always under tension. You won't notice in a corner, other than a clunk because road speed is slow. Toe in forces the tires toward centerline....which may tighten things up, but both tires push in on one another, fight each other, and cause an oscillation in that bad joint. As those oscillations grow, they result in DW...
 
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FYI, the ZJ conversion with a TJ Drag Link is now costing about $300 on Amazon Prime if you get a new steering stabilizer as well.

There needs to be more clarity on what you need to do this conversion in the OP. Of course, I'm adding the Drag Link, so it could be added as an addendum

ES3095R Tie Rod End (x1)
ES3096L Tie Rod End (x2)
ES2079S Adjusting Sleeve (x1)
DS1312 Tie Rod End (which is your Tie Rod) (x1)
DS1430 Tie Rod End (which is your Drag Link) (x1)
Steering Stabilizer of your Choice

Definitely the way to look at it if comparing to Currie. Apples to apples and Currie doesn't look too bad.
 
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