Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Bumper paint: Enamel vs. Lacquer vs. Epoxy

Carve

Carve

TJ Enthusiast
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Apr 2, 2018
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130
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Albuquerque, NM, USA
I just ordered a DirtWorx rear bumper, which comes in bare steel. I had planned to just use Rustoeleum Enamal paint. The shortcoming with that is drys from the top down. This makes a film. If you wait too long and spray your next coat over this film, the solvent in that coat will disrupt the film, it'll wrinkle up, and you have to start over. I hear this can even happen if you do a touchup months later.

This can be solved with lacquer paint. They tend to dry from the bottom up, because the evaporating lacquer keeps the upper layers hydrated until completely dry. Touchup and additional coats can be done at any time (well...as long as it's dry enough where your additional coat won't cause a run). I'm just not sure it'll be durable enough though.

Epoxy can be a bit more expensive ($20 for primer + $20 for top coat) but would be the most durable option. However, these are 2-part systems. Once you push the button on the bottom of the can, a reaction starts and you have a limited amount of time to use it. That might make it difficult to paint all sides of the bumper. Also, unless the can is held vertical, I hear it tends to sputter. There is, however, Rustoeleum applicance epoxy. I think I could use it over regular primer (not sure) and it's fairly cheap. It's some kind of one-step epoxy so probably won't be as strong, but touch-ups would be possible and I'm sure it'd be stronger than spray paint...probably splits the difference between paint and powdercoat

So...do any of you experienced painters out there know anything about the pros and cons here? I have a Jeep trip next weekend so don't have time to get it powdercoated, plus that's kind of expensive anyway.
 
Carve said:
I just ordered a DirtWorx rear bumper, which comes in bare steel. I had planned to just use Rustoeleum Enamal paint. The shortcoming with that is drys from the top down. This makes a film. If you wait too long and spray your next coat over this film, the solvent in that coat will disrupt the film, it'll wrinkle up, and you have to start over. I hear this can even happen if you do a touchup months later.

This can be solved with lacquer paint. They tend to dry from the bottom up, because the evaporating lacquer keeps the upper layers hydrated until completely dry. Touchup and additional coats can be done at any time (well...as long as it's dry enough where your additional coat won't cause a run). I'm just not sure it'll be durable enough though.

Epoxy can be a bit more expensive ($20 for primer + $20 for top coat) but would be the most durable option. However, these are 2-part systems. Once you push the button on the bottom of the can, a reaction starts and you have a limited amount of time to use it. That might make it difficult to paint all sides of the bumper. Also, unless the can is held vertical, I hear it tends to sputter. There is, however, Rustoeleum applicance epoxy. I think I could use it over regular primer (not sure) and it's fairly cheap. It's some kind of one-step epoxy so probably won't be as strong, but touch-ups would be possible and I'm sure it'd be stronger than spray paint...probably splits the difference between paint and powdercoat

So...do any of you experienced painters out there know anything about the pros and cons here? I have a Jeep trip next weekend so don't have time to get it powdercoated, plus that's kind of expensive anyway.
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I use the best primer I can, which I believe is epoxy primer. I do have a full spray booth and mixing capabilities, so it’s a little easier for me. I buy epoxy primer in the gallons, so I can mix up what I need. Even tho I could use a nice automotive paint on the bumper, I usually use something like rustolium fusion spray bombs for the paint. My bumpers get beat up, I want an easy way to touch them up and spray bombs are the easiest method to do that.

I would not powder coat bumpers, once it’s starts failing, and it will if you use your bumpers there is no easy way to fix it.
 
Picture for reference.

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Carve said:
I just ordered a DirtWorx rear bumper, which comes in bare steel. I had planned to just use Rustoeleum Enamal paint. The shortcoming with that is drys from the top down. This makes a film. If you wait too long and spray your next coat over this film, the solvent in that coat will disrupt the film, it'll wrinkle up, and you have to start over. I hear this can even happen if you do a touchup months later.
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Use a self-etching primer then apply a coat or two of satin black enamel. Just time the subsequent coats per the directions on the back of the cans and you'll be fine. Never a problem when you simply follow the direction. I've painted a couple Dirtworx bumpers per the provided directions and never a problem.

And no, you won't have problems if you touch the bumper up "months later". I regularly have to touch up scrapes and there's never an issue.
 
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I use self etching primer followed by satin black top coat. It can wrinkle if you don’t scuff the surface when touching up. I usually do though, so no problems.

As far as durability, it won’t matter what paint is on your bumper if you hit a rock, it will scrape it off and you’ll have to touch up.

I’ve used lacquer for it’s ease of touch up, but went back to enamel. Just 3 light coats 2-3 minutes apart after your self etching primer has been applied and drying for 30 minutes.
 
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Like @Jerry Bransford and @JMT said above, self etching primer and satin black top coat. Make sure to follow directions on can. I would then topcoat the black with a clear coat. I've gotten much longer life out of the base color by doing so and the paint job seems more durable than just stopping with the black.
 
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Cornbread said:
Like @Jerry Bransford and @JMT said above, self etching primer and satin black top coat. Make sure to follow directions on can. I would then topcoat the black with a clear coat. I've gotten much longer life out of the base color by doing so and the paint job seems more durable than just stopping with the black.
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The clear coat prevents fading? Does it change it from satin to gloss?
 
For durability two part epoxy > hardened enamel or urethane > single part epoxy > unhardened enamel > laquer. Sime may dispute the order of the hardened paints and harden3d paints versus single part epoxy. I haven't painted professionally for almost 40 years so they may be right.

Have you considered sending it to a powder coater? Around here tje are pretty reasonable.
 
Carve said:
Why'd you go back to enamel?
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I believe it was because I read lacquer doesn't hold up as well to salt and chemicals.

Also, I will say that the lacquer was very forgiving. You could basically make it look perfect.
 
steelhd said:
For durability two part epoxy > hardened enamel or urethane > single part epoxy > unhardened enamel > laquer. Sime may dispute the order of the hardened paints and harden3d paints versus single part epoxy. I haven't painted professionally for almost 40 years so they may be right.

Have you considered sending it to a powder coater? Around here tje are pretty reasonable.
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It's expensive here- $300-$450. Plus the lead time is too long to get it done before my next trip. How do you harden enamel? Looks like single part epoxy might be the way to go
 
the main thing is using an etching primer on bare metal thats most important.i paint for a living also like some of the guys on here and i could paint the whole thing with an imron system that would be very protective but:for parts like a bumper that you 'use'(bump stuff),rattlecan tech is very serviceable/maintainable...particularly the using of a satin finish.this finish will allow for a more easy blending of reapplication due to its non-glossy finish.when you paint shiny paint on the existing surface,the edge will have a halo that is foggy/dry looking.the main thing is the etching primer cuz thats what really makes the paint adhere.scratches/gouges wont lead to flaking since all the paint is stuck well.if youve scraped to the metal,carefully re spray some etching primer(it will want to wrinkle the existing paint around the scratch)then sand lightly to get rid of some of the texture...the reapplication of a satin finish will blend in/hide surface texture better than a glossy system
 
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Carve said:
The clear coat prevents fading? Does it change it from satin to gloss?
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No, it stays in good condition. My satin finish is still satin nearly 10 years later.

And don't waste your time or $$$ having it powder coated. It'll cost 10-15X the cost and it won't hold up any better to trail damage. My Rustoleum paint jobs on all of my bumpers have always held up very well.

And don't forget it's just a bumper, you're not painting your Jeep. :)
 
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You might look into Steel-It. I painted my shocks with it, haven't had a chance to get them on the jeep yet, but it's supposed to be very abrasion resistant. The only catch is the surface finish if the bumper would need to be pretty rough, ideally sandblasted, before applying it. A lot of the ultra4 and trophy truck guys use it for their chassis. It won't beat scraping on a rock, but might be pretty durable for normal driving and rock chips, while being easy to touch up in the future.
 
I did my skids with rust-oleum semi-gloss black professional in the quart can. I used a roller and re-coated twice, 24 hours between. It has a really nice slightly textured finish and goes on pretty thick. I'm not going back to spray, it really works great for me. I know it's not for everybody but a one quart can covers so much compared to rattle cans and like I said, it goes on thick. Touch up is just a few dabs with a paper towel. It really has been a great alternative for me but I know it's not for everybody.
 
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Carve said:
Looks like single part epoxy might be the way to go
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For the one part epoxy I like VHT Chassis and Rollbar simply because it comes in satin black and is available at nearly any auto parts store so I can easily touch it up. I suspect take can equipment epoxies are just as good and maybe even better.
 
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