Bumper paint: Enamel vs. Lacquer vs. Epoxy
- Thread starter Carve
- Start date
kenosha whiz six
TJ Enthusiast
It's not just about adhesion. Primer allows you to more easily get the surface smooth, so when you lay the paint down there is no guess work.
Thanks, I appreciate the answer and do agree, primer does help with that.
kenosha whiz six
TJ Enthusiast
Two random comments:
1) I once tried a paint that claimed it had a "built in primer". Long term results weren't all that great on bare steel which eventually started to rust through the paint. This was, however over 40 years ago.
2) I use RustOleum's "Rusty Metal Primer", AKA "Red lead" (even though its not!) on both rusty as well as new steel. I've been doing this for about 50 years and I have no complaints whatsoever. This primer - when top coated - stops rust cold. YMMV and all that - but that's been my experience.
I'm not the Goddess's gift to painting - in fact, I *hate* painting things - but this has been my experience on the subject. My late father and I brush painted a rust bucket pickup truck one time and not only did it come out looking better than anyone would think, but it didn't rust anymore either!
1) I once tried a paint that claimed it had a "built in primer". Long term results weren't all that great on bare steel which eventually started to rust through the paint. This was, however over 40 years ago.
2) I use RustOleum's "Rusty Metal Primer", AKA "Red lead" (even though its not!) on both rusty as well as new steel. I've been doing this for about 50 years and I have no complaints whatsoever. This primer - when top coated - stops rust cold. YMMV and all that - but that's been my experience.
I'm not the Goddess's gift to painting - in fact, I *hate* painting things - but this has been my experience on the subject. My late father and I brush painted a rust bucket pickup truck one time and not only did it come out looking better than anyone would think, but it didn't rust anymore either!
kenosha whiz six
TJ Enthusiast
I wonder if that product contains a built in rust converter?like Eastwood products or por15(45?)
This video is worth the time
I learn a something from anything this guy bothers to post
I learn a something from anything this guy bothers to post
Did I actually read someone suggesting to paint a bumper with epoxy and no top coat?
You may want to contact the manufacturer and see if they recommend it in a UV situation. If they say yes I wonder what else they are lying about
You may want to contact the manufacturer and see if they recommend it in a UV situation. If they say yes I wonder what else they are lying about
Tldelaney
TJ Enthusiast
Epoxy by far the best. SPI makes some great black epoxy that doesnt need a top coat. Just expensive
"You do not need to top-coat our epoxy on frames, wheel wells, firewalls or suspension components" Sounds like UV would be an issue though based on the parts it recommends.
"You do not need to top-coat our epoxy on frames, wheel wells, firewalls or suspension components" Sounds like UV would be an issue though based on the parts it recommends.
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When people want to spend more money than necessary!
Paint finishes are beyond me.
My TJRs '05, '06 factory bumpers are still like new....
400K kms on the old one. 150K kms on the new one, I buy a windshield every year yet the factory finish on the bumper goes on and on...... so why does the aftermarket fall so short....
I have a few AEV accessories which seem to do as well.... but AEV has forgotten about TJs so kind of irrelevant..... god forbid the day a guy with a JKU Brute needs a part for his $70K conversion.... but yeah..... why cannot the aftermarket meet the factory finish.
This is the reason I still have factory bumpers..... I looked but rhey all need paint every year and are HEAVY....
If they could match the factory finish I'd consider them but otherwise cut down the factory bumper or be happy.
Changing out a bumper unless you really upgrade to like Warn...... is not an upgrade.
ps, all I want to know is how I can find/apply that factory TJ bumper finish/paint.
My TJRs '05, '06 factory bumpers are still like new....
400K kms on the old one. 150K kms on the new one, I buy a windshield every year yet the factory finish on the bumper goes on and on...... so why does the aftermarket fall so short....
I have a few AEV accessories which seem to do as well.... but AEV has forgotten about TJs so kind of irrelevant..... god forbid the day a guy with a JKU Brute needs a part for his $70K conversion.... but yeah..... why cannot the aftermarket meet the factory finish.
This is the reason I still have factory bumpers..... I looked but rhey all need paint every year and are HEAVY....
If they could match the factory finish I'd consider them but otherwise cut down the factory bumper or be happy.
Changing out a bumper unless you really upgrade to like Warn...... is not an upgrade.
ps, all I want to know is how I can find/apply that factory TJ bumper finish/paint.
I used Locktite SF 754, BRUSH ON.
My neighbour bought the NAPA brand name product and I was impressed, They also had the Locktite brand and me, being a brand name guy.... ie Jeep, AEV, Warn..... went Lockrite..... surprize, surprize...... great product, I think they are all comparable.... decide made in China cheap vs brand name maybe more money..... I drive a Jeep, not a Land Rover or Suzuki.
If ya want to stop some surface rust on some frame components.... rust converters are fabulous and easy..... they will not restore something structurally challenged, they are purely a cosmetic solution on structurally sound materials.
My neighbour bought the NAPA brand name product and I was impressed, They also had the Locktite brand and me, being a brand name guy.... ie Jeep, AEV, Warn..... went Lockrite..... surprize, surprize...... great product, I think they are all comparable.... decide made in China cheap vs brand name maybe more money..... I drive a Jeep, not a Land Rover or Suzuki.
If ya want to stop some surface rust on some frame components.... rust converters are fabulous and easy..... they will not restore something structurally challenged, they are purely a cosmetic solution on structurally sound materials.
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I went with the VHT over a light coat of self-etching primer. Results look good, but we'll see about the durability.
Regarding the test in the video, although the paint on bare metal DID seem to be more scratch resistant than the primered section, the scratches it DID have tended to go to bare metal, while on the primed section the scratches typically only went to the primer. Even if it scratches easier, your metal is still protected and the touch-up will be easier.
try a 2k spray can epoxy primer like this: https://www.eastwood.com/2k-areo-spray-epoxy-primer-black-nv.html
I've used them on my ATV custom made parts and have been rust free for years. Top coat with cheap rattle can / krylon.
I've used them on my ATV custom made parts and have been rust free for years. Top coat with cheap rattle can / krylon.