Atas 2 speed vs Atlas 4 speed transfer case

I am running a 2.5 inch suspension lift with a 1 inch body lift. So far I am not having any driveline angle issues. I did end up getting a shorter drive shaft for the rear. I was able to reuse the front drive shaft. I went with the 2.72:1, 3.8:1 & 10.34:1 gearing. I had a local shop do the install for me.
Any way you can measure the length of the rear shaft for us?
 
Fixed it for you. And, that isn't a 4 speed thing. It is also a 2 speed thing.
Thanks , yes, i just like the feature.

Honestly a stock transfer case is effortless to use off road - not knocking an Atlas but the more I wheel TJs the more I like 4 wd on the fly with no shift to neutral , and the more I appreciate the overall designed functions. The Atlas takes a little forethought or I need more experience with it and off road experience in general too.
 
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Thanks , yes, i just like the feature.

Honestly a stock transfer case is effortless to use off road - not knocking an Atlas but the more I wheel TJs the more I like 4 wd on the fly with no shift to neutral , and the more I appreciate the overall designed functions. The Atlas takes a little forethought or I need more experience with it and off road experience in general too.
Neither get into 4 low without passing neutral.
 
Any way you can measure the length of the rear shaft for us?
Sorry, haven’t read all of this, but having also done the atlas 4 speed swap without a stretch on the TJ with initially a 4.5 in RE lift and 1inch body lift, my driveshaft was 14 3/8 inches, which I got from Tom Woods, and have had no issues. I live on east coast, and have done all the black at Rausch Creek and one red (cemetery), but don’t think they qualify as truly extreme either….
 
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Sorry, haven’t read all of this, but having also done the atlas 4 speed swap without a stretch on the TJ with initially a 4.5 in RE lift and 1inch body lift, my driveshaft was 14 3/8 inches, which I got from Tom Woods, and have had no issues. I live on east coast, and have done all the black at Rausch Creek and one red (cemetery), but don’t think they qualify as truly extreme either….
Oops was supposed to be reply to above where mrblaine asked for a driveshaft measurement…realize not the one he was asking for, but should be close…
 
Thanks , yes, i just like the feature.

Honestly a stock transfer case is effortless to use off road - not knocking an Atlas but the more I wheel TJs the more I like 4 wd on the fly with no shift to neutral , and the more I appreciate the overall designed functions. The Atlas takes a little forethought or I need more experience with it and off road experience in general too.
It take a feel to shift the Atlas. It's getting easier the more I do it. The best is while doing a front dig to shift it back into 4wd makes the move kind of seamless.
 
I'm confused. You don't have to be stopped to shift the Atlas.
Mine you have to shift the transmission to neutral to shift to 4 hi - crap now i,m confused. Ya’ll talk on, I’ll hush.
 
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Unfortunatly Stak is no longer around. You could find a used Stak, but I would avoid that.
There are billet cases for the 300. Adding the heavy duty input, heavy duty output, and low range gears in the 300 the weak point is the case. A billet case is the only solution for that.
Better route would be an Atlas IMO.

Yes I agree that it's too bad STaK's went belly up. Wished they'd stuck around and fixed the issues with the monster box instead.
Now while a LOT more expensive than an Atlas don't forget about Trail Worthy Fab and the Hero t-case. Offered in a 2 or 3 speed configuration.

http://www.trailworthyfab.com/Transfer-Case/
http://www.trailworthyfab.com/Trail-Worthy-Fab-Three-Speed-Hero-Case-Hero111.html
I'm glad I got a STaK t-case just wish I'd been reading forums when another vendor was offering a fix for the popping out of gear issue. And not that it matters for anyone unless you have a STaK t-case but they cannot be flat towed either.

I blew up 2 cases before they finally said ENOUGH and don't flat tow your Jeep. I was following their recommended way to tow it also so I wasn't doing anything stupid. (I know unusual for me)
 
Haven’t tried I reckon. Already tearing too much stuff up.
How easy an Atlas shifts depends on the bind between front and rear axles. That means it doesn't matter if it is in gear or in neutral.

Gently push on the lever you want to move, ease into the throttle and then let off quickly, that will tell you if it will shift. If it will, shift it. Just remember, no front hi by itself ever. That determines the order you move the shifters.

If both are in Hi range, you have to move the front to neutral before you can move the rear to neutral. But, you can move the rear from hi to neutral to low with the front in neutral. That and it should be obvious but you can't get one in hi and the other in low.
 
How easy an Atlas shifts depends on the bind between front and rear axles. That means it doesn't matter if it is in gear or in neutral.

Gently push on the lever you want to move, ease into the throttle and then let off quickly, that will tell you if it will shift. If it will, shift it. Just remember, no front hi by itself ever. That determines the order you move the shifters.

If both are in Hi range, you have to move the front to neutral before you can move the rear to neutral. But, you can move the rear from hi to neutral to low with the front in neutral. That and it should be obvious but you can't get one in hi and the other in low.
Thank you I’ve been needing some coaching with how to operate the thing- I noticed what you’re talking about- but I’m not good enough with anything to be able to do any of it consistently-And just getting my head around the process and having some type of Overall concept like forget that they are such a thing as front high

Incidentally man is on the right side and I’m trying to remember the deal but everything was backwards from what I thought it would be- I will have it out of the shop before long and try to get a thread going so you guys can dial me in. ( or laugh me out !)

Thanks
 
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Thank you I’ve been needing some coaching with how to operate the thing- I noticed what you’re talking about- but I’m not good enough with anything to be able to do any of it consistently-And just getting my head around the process and having some type of Overall concept like forget that they are such a thing as front high

Incidentally man is on the right side and I’m trying to remember the deal but everything was backwards from what I thought it would be- I will have it out of the shop before long and try to get a thread going so you guys can dial me in. ( or laugh me out !)

Thanks
Check with AA on the use of the front 2 speed section. When we use the Rubicrawler with a 231, you have to use the 272-1 in the case first or you'll over rev the bearings in the 231 and have to rebuild it.
 
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