The Hidden Body Lift

They do. Early in this thread you should be able to see the extra layer of steel on top of the frame where the GR mounts sit.

Thanks, jjvw! I didn't look closely enough. It looks like only the front conflict.

Front:
1655397106628.png


Rear:
1655397257098.png
 
Ya'll and you're lack of accuracy on important shit is maddening.

Rear upper what?

What new mount and how do you get a frame gap?

It looks like apparition already mentioned it. If you were to use the very rear upper body mount in place of the 6 OEM side mounts, you can gain another 1/4". By raising the bracket, it creates a 1/4" gap on top of the frame for the brackets that have that extension.

Are we missing something?
 
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Just the rear lower isolators for the sides. At the time I wasn't aware of the small bit of extra I could have gotten. They've been installed a while now, maybe a year ago now?

Did they come with the inner sleeve in them? Did you buy crown or other.
 
I think it was dorman, but I can't find the email. There's no inner sleeve on the lowers, it's a washer bonded to the rubber.

edit: https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/crown-automotive-body-mount-bushing-52002659/_/R-BKMN-52002659

Ok so I don't need the sleeve? Some places show part 52002659 had this in the description:
  • Sleeve PN 52002661 Not Included
So I assumed that it was needed.

This is part 52002661

1655407603058.png


I still need to find the part number for the upper bushing on the rear mount.
 
Ok so I don't need the sleeve? Some places show part 52002659 had this in the description:
  • Sleeve PN 52002661 Not Included
So I assumed that it was needed.

This is part 52002661

View attachment 337524

I still need to find the part number for the upper bushing on the rear mount.

Yeah, that's in the upper half, you'll cut it down by ~1" but once you're down there you can mark exactly where to cut.
 
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Are we missing something?
Someone is. The rear mounts at 4 positions, 2 at the rear bumper, 2 over gas tank crossmember and the one under the grill have the shorter top puck than the ones down the sides under the doors. At least that is what I recall. I have a 100 or so scattered about so I'll double check to verify later today.
 
Correct. You would need to shim the mount up, tack it, and then fill the gap on the mounts that need it.

It is better to use the mounts from GR and let the cuts on them set the frame height. If you need to adjust after that, then use a small spacer on top of the top half of the body mount.
 
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Is it of any concern that the diameter of the shorter rear upper body mount bushings is smaller than the hole opening on the raised genright body mounts?

Taller body mount upper bushing and sleeve

1304CDA1-8563-4AEA-A24A-DE960F7A564D.jpeg

987B3C54-8F2F-40D3-99EF-D5712FC6E5D9.jpeg

Shorter upper body mount bushing and sleeve.

764ADC96-C267-4DF6-9709-AC95B88442FF.jpeg

B5536416-0DE6-471F-9499-679F85AF82B5.jpeg
 
That's precisely why I don't use them. Check the height above the frame side mount for us.

That was my question and understanding of what you used, so I misunderstood you far earlier in the year post. They are 1/4" shorter than the side mounts, although the insert is smaller diameter. That is how I figured the mounts could be raised that extra 1/4". What is the reason you don't use them? Will the body still move even with the friction/compression of the rubber?
 
No, the bottoms don't swap exactly between the uppers. I use the whole rear mount which lets the body mount welded to the frame move even higher. You can swap the lower onto the upper of the regular side mounts with some tweaks though. To do the countersink, just put the bolt in the mount, set that on a short piece of 1" .120 wall tube and mash it flat with the shop press. Make a perfect countersink to use a flat head bolt.
This is what I was talking about and what my intention to do was...this was back at post #35
 
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