Why does my steering suck with Rough Country 4 inch lift?

"Hey, is that stuff in the tube to stop the brakes from squealing?"

Then it dawns on me and I ask him if the tube was in a bag with a business card. "Yeah, that's it". No, sorry, that is not anti-squeal, that is lip balm, please don't use it on the brake pads.
Ummmmmm...Pina Colada flavored anti-squeal (or pinepple, whatever that flavor is) ha.

Maybe I'd give them "zipper lube" ....but brake anti-squeal.... sense of humor is helpful.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: DougyintheBushies
It is enough that a lot of companies used them as a drop pitman in their kits.

What’s this look like to you sir?Better than this though.

EB3B6A98-ED4C-4E81-8E63-E6FD1FF5C52E.jpeg


F40FAFAD-22D1-4189-9EF0-9E525DCB900A.jpeg
 
First I did not select the RC 4” lift. It came on the Jeep when I bought it. It does have the drop pitman arm and it has the drop bracket for the track bar. I installed the ZJ upgrade steering components, did a garage alignment (3/16” farther apart in rear), and see no slop when doing a left/right giggle.

BUT this thing steers very “squirrelly” and wants to be left/right all over the lane width.

I double checked the alignment but feel I need to triple check. I also set torqued my CA arms and steering components w tires on the ground.

Is a stock DPA and adjustable track bar really what I need?

View attachment 345798

First I did not select the RC 4” lift. It came on the Jeep when I bought it. It does have the drop pitman arm and it has the drop bracket for the track bar. I installed the ZJ upgrade steering components, did a garage alignment (3/16” farther apart in rear), and see no slop when doing a left/right giggle.

BUT this thing steers very “squirrelly” and wants to be left/right all over the lane width.

I double checked the alignment but feel I need to triple check. I also set torqued my CA arms and steering components w tires on the ground.

Is a stock DPA and adjustable track bar really what I need?

View attachment 345798

Good Morning JMR, nice looking Jeep.

The "squirrelly" you refer is a result of the caster change that comes with the RC kit. The fix is adjustable arms and professional alignment. Oh, if I am reading your post correctly your Jeep is street driver, if so, I would suggest replacing the AntiRock sway bar with a stock sway bar.

The more important question is, what is your intend use for your TJ? Make a plan for improvements based on your ultimate goals. Seek professional advice from a trust shop. Gather all the parts you need to reach your goal and only then modify your Jeep. Lastly, buy the best and only cry once.
 
Good Morning JMR, nice looking Jeep.

The "squirrelly" you refer is a result of the caster change that comes with the RC kit. The fix is adjustable arms and professional alignment. Oh, if I am reading your post correctly your Jeep is street driver, if so, I would suggest replacing the AntiRock sway bar with a stock sway bar.

The more important question is, what is your intend use for your TJ? Make a plan for improvements based on your ultimate goals. Seek professional advice from a trust shop. Gather all the parts you need to reach your goal and only then modify your Jeep. Lastly, buy the best and only cry once.

This kit came with longer front lower CAs. I’d assume that is to correct the caster?

I understand the anti rock is not quite as street friendly as a stock sway bar, but this squirrely feeling is felt going straight. In my mind the sway bar would be felt when cornering?

I agree w buying quality first time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RINC
This kit came with longer front lower CAs. I’d assume that is to correct the caster?

I understand the anti rock is not quite as street friendly as a stock sway bar, but this squirrely feeling is felt going straight. In my mind the sway bar would be felt when cornering?

I agree w buying quality first time.

I wouldn't bother changing out the AR for a stock swaybar. It's not what is affecting your steering the way you are describing. With proper steering geometry setup an AR works fine. It's not as stiff as stock, but that's the cost for not having to disconnect, and it's well worth it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford
I understand the anti rock is not quite as street friendly as a stock sway bar, but this squirrely feeling is felt going straight. In my mind the sway bar would be felt when cornering?
An Antirock, which I have been running for close to 20 years, won't cause steering issues. And it won't cause excessive sway like some like to claim if you're running good shocks. My Antirock is set to its least-stiff setting and I spent many years on tight-twisty mountain roads, usually towing my pop-up tent trailer, without noticing excessive sway. It handled well enough that I was able to consistently keep up with all the traffic on the curves.
 
Update - found a good bit of slop on the track bar (passenger side). So still taking off DPA and TB drop (bolted).

Waiting on parts

Good start. I replaced my DPA with stick, if you haven’t pulled one, stay after it, mine was freaking on there ha. Pitman puller rent a tool was locked up….then a big pound with a hammer to the side, the whole thing came down, ha.
 
I put a 4" lift on mine(w/adjustable track bar) and then did the tape-measure toe-in adjustment. All factory steering components and it drives better than it did w/o the lift. I was shocked. Seems odd that some lifts need a DPA?
 
Good start. I replaced my DPA with stick, if you haven’t pulled one, stay after it, mine was freaking on there ha. Pitman puller rent a tool was locked up….then a big pound with a hammer to the side, the whole thing came down, ha.

I have a tool that is super beefy thanks to my late father. It is probably older than me. I used a little heat and some liquid wrench. When the PA left go, it was quite a pop.

So added a new track bar, oE pitman arm and went for a drive. Definitely an improvement but still a bit wobbly.

For locks I installed a standard sway bar. That also made a big difference.

I believe the combo of worn out track bar, DPA and anti-rock all added to my issue.
 
I have a tool that is super beefy thanks to my late father. It is probably older than me. I used a little heat and some liquid wrench. When the PA left go, it was quite a pop.

So added a new track bar, oE pitman arm and went for a drive. Definitely an improvement but still a bit wobbly.

For locks I installed a standard sway bar. That also made a big difference.

I believe the combo of worn out track bar, DPA and anti-rock all added to my issue.

So you did these, and it's significantly better, but still "wobbly".

What do you mean by that? Does the wheel wobble in your hand? Does the jeep dart left and right hard, kind of drift?

Did you drop tire pressure as well?
At this point, if you are on a level road, and hands off the wheel, does it stay straight?

When you turn, or even change lanes, does your wheel return to center, specifically, return to center?

Do you have what is needed to measure angles on your front axle, to specifically measure your caster after these changes?
 
Mine came with new lower control arms (but not upper), a drop pitman arm, and the scariest highway driving I've ever done along with rear-steer. I eventually decided to shitcan the whole kit, and am glad I did. Double-adjustable upper/lower, an adjustable track bar, and XJ steering solved the problems. I can't pinpoint which replacement fixed which issue, but I can tell you I'll never use a RR kit for anything.
 
  • Like
Reactions: John Cooper