Axle shaft question

DWR

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Had a u-joint decide to preform an unexpected rapid disassembly and proceed to bend the ears on the axle shaft and short end (yoke?) of my jeep.
Driver/left side.

So, I need to replace those. Details are that I run 33” 12.5wide tires and I’m counting 30splines, so apparently the prior owner upgraded a bit.

Would someone mind please suggesting me what to get? I’d prefer to get it as an already assembled unit, like I see some on rock auto. Unless thats not the suggested route (I do have access to a press). I don’t think revolution gear’s awesome upgrade is needed with 33” from what I read, but I’lol let the more senior mind guide me. Non-ABS

IMG_0242.jpeg
 
Looking at rock auto I’m pretty sure ZAW38811 is the correct inner shaft to get but am questioning the difference between 10025618 and 43205 for the outer? Anyone know the difference? Or guidance please?

Hate to ask but @Jerry Bransford do you know the difference between these two? Also is this shaft good/enough for my tire size?

image.jpg
 
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Looking at rock auto I’m pretty sure ZAW38811 is the correct inner shaft to get but am questioning the difference between 10025618 and 43205 for the outer? Anyone know the difference? Or guidance please?

Hate to ask but @Jerry Bransford do you know the difference between these two? Also is this shaft good/enough for my tire size?

View attachment 412530

Looks like the difference may be u joint size. As they list a different bearing cap diameter for each of those shafts.
 
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Looks like the difference may be u joint size. As they list a different bearing cap diameter for each of those shafts.

Thank you so much for replying, I didn’t notice that at all and would have wound up with the wrong one (had already ordered but thankfully was able to cancel)! I went with the more expensive one at first because it said “nckle/chromoly” material instead of just steel thinking “stronger”
 
Question is why though? That other one uses a smaller ujoint, and is more expensive?
 
I'd call Revolution tomorrow morning and they'll hook you up with the right stuff.

-Mac

As much as I’d love to go with Revolution stuff, its a bit too pricy for me, for now. Plus I do believe a bit overkill for 33”
 
As much as I’d love to go with Revolution stuff, its a bit too pricy for me, for now. Plus I do believe a bit overkill for 33”

I'll let the more knowledgeable members school us...but I think at 30 spline...this a Dana 30, right?...it's all upgraded fancy stuff.

Lathe off the welds on the end and weld on new ones? At least for the inner shaft...outter is all the same for compatibility.

-Mac
 
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Are you sure you have the stock Dana 30 front differential? If it is in fact a Dana 30 someone along the way upgraded the center section to a Super 30 configuration with a 30-spline differential and axles…

Is it possible someone swapped in a Dana 44? What does your front differential cover look like?
 
I'll let the more knowledgeable members school us...but I think at 30 spline...this a Dana 30, right?...it's all upgraded fancy stuff.

Lathe off the welds on the end and weld on new ones? At least for the inner shaft...outter is all the same for compatibility.

-Mac

Are you sure you have the stock Dana 30 front differential? If it is in fact a Dana 30 someone along the way upgraded the center section to a Super 30 configuration with a 30-spline differential and axles…

Is it possible someone swapped in a Dana 44? What does your front differential cover look like?

Yes I am sure its a Dana 30, and must have been super 30’d and it has the ARB carrier (RD104) to match. I was thinking this may be the case from the get go because my rear Dana 44 got the same treatment but with 35 spline and arb RD109 and modified ends to accept SET20 bearings… Needless to say, one of the prior owners of my jeep had money and no direction with this build lol.
 
Yes I am sure its a Dana 30, and must have been super 30’d and it has the ARB carrier (RD104) to match. I was thinking this may be the case from the get go because my rear Dana 44 got the same treatment but with 35 spline and arb RD109 and modified ends to accept SET20 bearings… Needless to say, one of the prior owners of my jeep had money and no direction with this build lol.

Well, if you’re breaking the ears off a Chromoly shaft and you’re downgrading, I hate to see what happens with stock. If you have a front locker and 33’s you should have 4340 axles.
 
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Well, if you’re breaking the ears off a Chromoly shaft and you’re downgrading, I hate to see what happens with stock. If you have a front locker and 33’s you should have 4340 axles.

Didn’t break them off, the ujoint went out and bent the “ears” where the ujoint connects them. The shaft I bought from rock auto is 4340 chromoly as well. I sure there may be some way I could bend the ears back but I’d rather not break my press or anything trying to.
 
Well, if you’re breaking the ears off a Chromoly shaft and you’re downgrading, I hate to see what happens with stock. If you have a front locker and 33’s you should have 4340 axles.

IMG_0259.jpeg
 
Yes I am sure its a Dana 30, and must have been super 30’d and it has the ARB carrier (RD104) to match. I was thinking this may be the case from the get go because my rear Dana 44 got the same treatment but with 35 spline and arb RD109 and modified ends to accept SET20 bearings… Needless to say, one of the prior owners of my jeep had money and no direction with this build lol.

That being the case, all you need to do is measure your u-joint bearing cap diameter and buy the corresponding 30-spline left inner on RockAuto…
 
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That being the case, all you need to do is measure your u-joint bearing cap diameter and buy the corresponding 30-spline left inner on RockAuto…

And outer ;) I think I got it figured out now thanks to gollywomper pointing out my initial mess up with u-joint cap diameter. Everything is on order now and I do believe correct.



My jeep may not be pretty, but it’s sure built up!
 
Didn’t break them off, the ujoint went out and bent the “ears” where the ujoint connects them. The shaft I bought from rock auto is 4340 chromoly as well. I sure there may be some way I could bend the ears back but I’d rather not break my press or anything trying to.

I doubt the problem was caused by the ujoint. Ujoints don’t bend ears. Replacing with 4340 was wise. 👍🏼
 
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I doubt the problem was caused by the ujoint. Ujoints don’t bend ears. Replacing with 4340 was wise. 👍🏼

Depending on the clips a bad joint can rotate the cap and toss the clip.when that happens the cap walks out and broken stuff ensues.
one of the prior owners of my jeep had money and no direction with this build lol.
jeep parts get passed around like the town bicycle. No telling if those axles were in another jeep,or if the p.o. was getting ready to go for 35s