Considering this Florida one-owner 2002 Sahara automatic with 178k miles. Going to see it this weekend and wanting to buy. Exterior looks great, underside looks clean for the most part aside from some touch up paint - but to me it seems like it’s just the owner’s preference to touch it up black, nothing being hidden. Anyone see anything that looks questionable in terms of rust or the underside in general? Thanks
Looking for opinions on 02 TJ Sahara undercarriage condition
- Thread starter Flcnj94
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- 2002 jeep tj rust should i buy
A couple of those look like you took it for a test drive to Australia. 
It's not what's outside the frame that counts. Stick your finger in every hole in the frame and feel the bottom. Rusty-crusty for fairly smooth metal? Better yet, buy, borrow, or steal an inspection camera aka borescope and look inside. TJ frames like to rust out from the inside, because water and salt gets trapped in there and sits. Look closely at the frame just above the tranny skid, water gets trapped between them.
It's not what's outside the frame that counts. Stick your finger in every hole in the frame and feel the bottom. Rusty-crusty for fairly smooth metal? Better yet, buy, borrow, or steal an inspection camera aka borescope and look inside. TJ frames like to rust out from the inside, because water and salt gets trapped in there and sits. Look closely at the frame just above the tranny skid, water gets trapped between them.
Soft top isn't installed correctly in the rear, gas tank skid needs some paint, Sahara decals are faded, Dana 35 is a junkyard replacement, and the wheel balancing weights should be on the inside of the wheels.
Soft top isn't installed correctly in the rear, gas tank skid needs some paint, Sahara decals are faded, Dana 35 is a junkyard replacement, and the wheel balancing weights should be on the inside of the wheels.
I'd run a carfax on it
SPECWAR
TJ Enthusiast
If you’re comfortable with it and want it, make an offer.
There is so much rust paranoia here that it’s pathetic.
There is so much rust paranoia here that it’s pathetic.
I wouldn’t call it paranoia. That Jeep is probably plenty fine, but at least 90% of the ones in our state arguably shouldn’t be on the road.
SPECWAR
TJ Enthusiast
What would your percentage be? I look at every TJ I see in parking lots. I cannot remember the last time I’ve seen one I’d feel comfortable owning. This does not include carshows as those are outliers.
SPECWAR
TJ Enthusiast
So they are selling for $10k. The carfax is pretty extensive it seems to have been well maintained but I am completely new to TJ’s. Here is a link to the carfax - https://selly.buycarfax.com/carfax/6436172d1471f
They are selling for $10k. The carfax is pretty extensive it seems to have been well maintained but I am completely new to TJ’s. What’s your opinion? Prior to the sale the rear main seal and heater core are being replaced as well - Here is a link to the carfax - https://selly.buycarfax.com/carfax/6436172d1471f
Soft top isn't installed correctly in the rear, gas tank skid needs some paint, Sahara decals are faded, Dana 35 is a junkyard replacement, and the wheel balancing weights should be on the inside of the wheels.
Thanks for the input! I’m relatively new to jeeps and completely new to soft tops. Can you elaborate on what is wrong with the rear of the soft top so i can further inspect when I see it?
I did notice the weights on the wheels and thought that was odd. Is it uncommon for that many weights to be used in general as well? I’ve come to accept that a lot of the suspension parts are due for an upgrade so perhaps that has something to do with it?
Any red flag with a junk yard replacement as Long as it is running well?
Additionally, as I’ve posted to others the carfax seems rather extensive - anything red flag you see or does it seem relatively well maintained? - https://selly.buycarfax.com/carfax/6436172d1471f
The suggestion to stick your finger in the frame holes wherever you find them and feel the inside of the frame is a good one. If you feel roughness there may be rust inside the frame.
Open the oil fill cap on the valve cover and shine a flashlight in. Look for any milkiness in the oil. If found it could indicate a head crack or head gasket issue.
During the test drive get it all the way up to operating temp and watch the oil pressure gauge. If the oil pressure needle drops closer to the zero than the 20 mark at idle there could be a head crack.
One warmed up also check around the top and bottom seam in the radiator and look for coolant seeping out. This is a sign the radiator is starting to fail.
On the Carfax look at the locations the vehicle was registered. Has it ever been in the rust belt? Was it in a location where it could have been regularly used on the beach? For many of us excessive rust is the one thing we are not willing to overlook or use as a bargaining chip. That is why so many replies in this thread are focused on that.
2002 is a good year. It looks to be in pretty good shape from the pics. TJ prices and selection in the southeast are not what they were a couple years ago. If I were in your shoes I would seriously consider it.
Open the oil fill cap on the valve cover and shine a flashlight in. Look for any milkiness in the oil. If found it could indicate a head crack or head gasket issue.
During the test drive get it all the way up to operating temp and watch the oil pressure gauge. If the oil pressure needle drops closer to the zero than the 20 mark at idle there could be a head crack.
One warmed up also check around the top and bottom seam in the radiator and look for coolant seeping out. This is a sign the radiator is starting to fail.
On the Carfax look at the locations the vehicle was registered. Has it ever been in the rust belt? Was it in a location where it could have been regularly used on the beach? For many of us excessive rust is the one thing we are not willing to overlook or use as a bargaining chip. That is why so many replies in this thread are focused on that.
2002 is a good year. It looks to be in pretty good shape from the pics. TJ prices and selection in the southeast are not what they were a couple years ago. If I were in your shoes I would seriously consider it.
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Looking at the Carfax, the radiator has been replaced 3 times, and the head gasket replaced. No mention of the head being replaced... this all started happening at ~ the 40k mark on the history.
The guy seems to have maintained it well enough, oil looks to have been every 4-5000 miles. The rear axle with the junk yard paint could have been due to water getting into the original and not taking care of getting the fluid changed... there is an entry for the rear axle service.
He lived in Orlando, and Apopka, so away from the coast... doubtful he took it to the beach.
The guy seems to have maintained it well enough, oil looks to have been every 4-5000 miles. The rear axle with the junk yard paint could have been due to water getting into the original and not taking care of getting the fluid changed... there is an entry for the rear axle service.
He lived in Orlando, and Apopka, so away from the coast... doubtful he took it to the beach.
T
Thanks for the input! Being the head gasket was replaced - would this be something to steer clear of that may have led to other internal engine damage at the time? Or any signs I should look for related to that?