What have you 3D printed for your TJ?

Thanks for this one!!

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Windstar air intake adapter.

Unblended polycarbonate, so it's good for all underhood temperatures up to about 300°F. All but the thinnest sections are 20% infilled to add thermal decoupling to the underhood air. Most of the tube is also able to be insulated.

Interior (not visible in photos) is very smooth and curved to allow as little airflow restriction as possible.

Took 12 hours to print. Had the heated chamber up to 89°C, bed temperature at 155°C, extruder at 320°C, 100 mm/s on all print settings.

Did have one blob of death start, but fortunately the part broke free and I woke up to spaghetti instead. Even though that print failed, I did get to see just how strong it was. Could not break the tube even by stomping it with my boot.

Pure polycarbonate prints like PLA once you get the temperatures right.

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After finding out that my 97 didn’t come with (what I call) a water guard over the cabin air intake hole under the cowl, I’ve wanted to find someone to help me design and print one… with the possibility of adding a spot where a filter could be added.

I would love to stop getting blasted with sand the first time the heater is used, and I’m sure my GF would appreciate me eliminating the foot wash feature that happens when going 55mph+ in heavy rain…

You might find these posts interesting, though I have a sneaking suspicion your 97's fresh air opening in the cowl looks a little different than mine...

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-tj-today.1784/post-1396534
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-tj-today.1784/post-1397212
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-tj-today.1784/post-1398333
 
Windstar air intake adapter.

Unblended polycarbonate, so it's good for all underhood temperatures up to about 300°F. All but the thinnest sections are 20% infilled to add thermal decoupling to the underhood air. Most of the tube is also able to be insulated.

Interior (not visible in photos) is very smooth and curved to allow as little airflow restriction as possible.

Took 12 hours to print. Had the heated chamber up to 89°C, bed temperature at 155°C, extruder at 320°C, 100 mm/s on all print settings.

Did have one blob of death start, but fortunately the part broke free and I woke up to spaghetti instead. Even though that print failed, I did get to see just how strong it was. Could not break the tube even by stomping it with my boot.

Pure polycarbonate prints like PLA once you get the temperatures right.

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Very nice! that print quality look great!
 
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Very nice! that print quality look great!

Heat, heat, and more heat is the best way to print polycarbonate. If you can keep much of the part at an annealing temperature, it basically self-anneals as it prints, so no warping.

My next challenge will be to re-print the hotend in Ultem, since the fan shroud has already mostly melted...
 
Windstar air intake adapter.

Unblended polycarbonate, so it's good for all underhood temperatures up to about 300°F. All but the thinnest sections are 20% infilled to add thermal decoupling to the underhood air. Most of the tube is also able to be insulated.

Interior (not visible in photos) is very smooth and curved to allow as little airflow restriction as possible.

Took 12 hours to print. Had the heated chamber up to 89°C, bed temperature at 155°C, extruder at 320°C, 100 mm/s on all print settings.

Did have one blob of death start, but fortunately the part broke free and I woke up to spaghetti instead. Even though that print failed, I did get to see just how strong it was. Could not break the tube even by stomping it with my boot.

Pure polycarbonate prints like PLA once you get the temperatures right.

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View attachment 458999

Where are you placing your intake? You could squeeze this in a smaller package with a shorter snout. Do you have any indication of how the air travels with the sharper edges vs the Windstar OEM?
 
Where are you placing your intake? You could squeeze this in a smaller package with a shorter snout. Do you have any indication of how the air travels with the sharper edges vs the Windstar OEM?

Basically copying the traditional placement. The snout is long enough to make it to the elbow, and keep the intake pipe in its current position (perpendicular to the engine).

The internal edges are actually way more smooth in mine than in the Windstar intake second half, especially after that piece is cut in half and shortened. The internal diameter starts at the diameter of the air filter outlet and then follows a smooth curve to taper down to the diameter of the factory intake tube, allowing me to use a standard 2.75" elbow.

Hard to tell in those photos, but the wall thickness varies dramatically through the part. At the base, it is 0.3" or more thick, but by the time it terminates at the elbow, it is only about 0.03" thick.
 
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Thanks! It does look like the same shape and all… would you be willing to print and sell these? Or perhaps just share the design files? I think I know someone locally who would print it for me. What material did you use/suggest?
 
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Thanks! It does look like the same shape and all… would you be willing to print and sell these? Or perhaps just share the design files? I think I know someone locally who would print it for me. What material did you use/suggest?

My printer's pretty quick but I don't really have the capacity to print and sell them. As well, I'm not looking to deal with product support in the traditional sense....but the print files are available for download. You'll find a download link in this thread:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-tj-today.1784/page-2433#post-1428138
I would recommend ABS or ASA for the filament. PLA is a very common and inexpensive filament but isn't suitable for this application.