Long arm advantage question

jjvw said:
Stop it. It is entirely your decision to learn or to remain ignorant. You are you own victim.
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You imo are a pompous know-it-all that offers absolutely nothing to the conversation other then negative BS. Screw victemstance you gaslighting douche. Thanks for nothing other then a waste of time. Glad you are a big man around here as I feel this is all you have other then credit card bills for your bought jeep. I will research elsewhere from now on.
 
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ALASKANMADMAN said:
You imo are a pompous know-it-all that offers absolutely nothing to the conversation other then negative BS. Screw victemstance you gaslighting douche. Thanks for nothing other then a waste of time. Glad you are a big man around here as I feel this is all you have other then credit card bills for your bought jeep. I will research elsewhere from now on.
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Go spend time with your kids. 🤣
 
ALASKANMADMAN said:
Final attempt. My base question is simply about short vs long arms and its advantage to lifted wranglers above 4". This is not in any way focused on stability but on the whole bigger picture of the benifit of long arms in general.
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So i am going to give you the answer you want because most likely a large number of folks up here are telling you to go with a long arm. Since it is common to build a TJ up here with more than four inches of lift you will have to do something about the piss poor control arm geometry with the stock arms. The standard approach up here is to use a bolt on long arm as it is the lazy way out. Luckily since we wheel in a tractionless environment the bad geometry of the bolt on long arm is less likely to manifest itself. The correct way is to build a custom suspension with longer arms but not as long as the bolt on kits to maximize link separation at the frame.
 
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Blackjack said:
So i am going to give you the answer you want because most likely a large number of folks up here are telling you to go with a long arm. Since it is common to build a TJ up here with more than four inches of lift you will have to do something about the piss poor control arm geometry with the stock arms. The standard approach up here is to use a bolt on long arm as it is the lazy way out. Luckily since we wheel in a tractionless environment the bad geometry of the bolt on long arm is less likely to manifest itself. The correct way is to build a custom suspension with longer arms but not as long as the bolt on kits to maximize link separation at the frame.
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Yep would not
jjvw said:
You are also welcome to counter what I explained to mad Alaska guy.
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Not mad in the least bit but actually feeling pity for you as this forum is your high point, you feel you are witty and knowledgeable but we can all see right thru that as a hurt little man typing away on a keyboard living your lonely solitude excistance trying desperately to make yourself look better then those that are actually much better and more knowledgeable then you are. Im sorry you are hurting so much inside but its up to you to admit that what happened to you as a child has long since past and they cant hurt you any more. Im sure we can find some support groups if you just ask.
Rember that Jesus loves you.....but we all think you're an asshole 😉 Stay golden.
 
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Blackjack said:
So i am going to give you the answer you want because most likely a large number of folks up here are telling you to go with a long arm. Since it is common to build a TJ up here with more than four inches of lift you will have to do something about the piss poor control arm geometry with the stock arms. The standard approach up here is to use a bolt on long arm as it is the lazy way out. Luckily since we wheel in a tractionless environment the bad geometry of the bolt on long arm is less likely to manifest itself. The correct way is to build a custom suspension with longer arms but not as long as the bolt on kits to maximize link separation at the frame.
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I was just thinking the real question here is how do you approach building a 7" lift for a tj? Like a subframe or cradle to drop the links down and keep them flatter? That is a lot of lift.
 
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ALASKANMADMAN said:
Not mad in the least bit but actually feeling pity for you as this forum is your high point, you feel you are witty and knowledgeable but we can all see right thru that as a hurt little man typing away on a keyboard living your lonely solitude excistance trying desperately to make yourself look better then those that are actually much better and more knowledgeable then you are. Im sorry you are hurting so much inside but its up to you to admit that what happened to you as a child has long since past and they cant hurt you any more. Im sure we can find some support groups if you just ask.
Rember that Jesus loves you.....but we all think you're an asshole 😉 Stay golden.
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What exactly are you upset about that has you writing long paragraphs explaining how not upset you are? 🤣
 
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Rickyd said:
I was just thinking the real question here is how do you approach building a 7" lift for a tj? Like a subframe or cradle to drop the links down and keep them flatter? That is a lot of lift.
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That is question that can't be addressed without knowing a whole bunch of other stuff about the overall build.
 
Rickyd said:
I was just thinking the real question here is how do you approach building a 7" lift for a tj? Like a subframe or cradle to drop the links down and keep them flatter? That is a lot of lift.
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Well the first thing I would tell you is unless you are building a buggy then I would avoid it. A lot a choices that diminish streetability have to be made for it to perform well.

As for what typically happens up here since 36-37 inch tires are considered the norm you are going to find something along the lines of a 5.5 inch RE long arm and an inch ish body lift. Far too often bolt on is what happens as most do not have the time or resources to build a custom suspension.
 
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Blackjack said:
So i am going to give you the answer you want because most likely a large number of folks up here are telling you to go with a long arm. Since it is common to build a TJ up here with more than four inches of lift you will have to do something about the piss poor control arm geometry with the stock arms. The standard approach up here is to use a bolt on long arm as it is the lazy way out. Luckily since we wheel in a tractionless environment the bad geometry of the bolt on long arm is less likely to manifest itself. The correct way is to build a custom suspension with longer arms but not as long as the bolt on kits to maximize link separation at the frame.
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Is he ALASKANMADMAN or ARIZONANMADMAN?
 
PNW_LJ said:
The username and profile pic say otherwise.
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never knew there were palm trees and cactus in Alaska

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