My 1978 GMC motorhome

Got the floor permanently mounted today. Need to pick up a few more fender washers to finish my installation



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The hatch over the engine needs a litte adjustment too. I used a pattern bit in my router to "trace" the opening in the old piece, so I know its in the spot where it was. I think it was wrong from the factory or this piece has been replaced before (doubtful). The corner of the wood is trying to occupy the same spot as part of the air cleaner cover. I'll have to clear that out a little bit. Once I get everything all arranged properly, I'll put a good coat of penetrating epoxy over the top and side surfaces too. Getting closer to walls!
 
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Mike_H said:
Got the floor permanently mounted today. Need to pick up a few more fender washers to finish my installation



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The hatch over the engine needs a litte adjustment too. I used a pattern bit in my router to "trace" the opening in the old piece, so I know its in the spot where it was. I think it was wrong from the factory or this piece has been replaced before (doubtful). The corner of the wood is trying to occupy the same spot as part of the air cleaner cover. I'll have to clear that out a little bit. Once I get everything all arranged properly, I'll put a good coat of penetrating epoxy over the top and side surfaces too. Getting closer to walls!
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I’d forgotten about that gigantic glove box. Brings back memories.
 
Nice, I love vintage RV's.

I ran across this 1986 Foretravel a couple years ago. One owner, mint condition, fully services. It wouldn't fit in my garage, it was about 20' to long.

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Mike_H said:
Yes. You either come in from the top or lift the coach and work underneath. I have cut a "belly board" that spans the aluminum supports to rest on when I'm working on the thing.
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I would kill to have that much access to the engine on my Class A Sprinter chassis. There is zero access from inside the cab and the hood opening is about 8" tall. Most everything 1/2 way back or more is feel as you go. A tilt cab would have been nice.

This is why a belt and tensioner takes 1/2 a day, even the shroud has to be bent slightly to get it out, and that's after removing upper hose, expansion reservoir, the fan and clutch, lifting everything enough to finagle the fan and clutch out of the shroud, then finally removing the shroud from the vehicle, then you crawl underneath to R&R the tensioner and new belts:

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B1Toad said:
I would kill to have that much access to the engine on my Class A Sprinter chassis. There is zero access from inside the cab and the hood opening is about 8" tall. Most everything 1/2 way back or more is feel as you go. A tilt cab would have been nice.

This is why a belt and tensioner takes 1/2 a day, even the shroud has to be bent slightly to get it out, and that's after removing upper hose, expansion reservoir, the fan and clutch, lifting everything enough to finagle the fan and clutch out of the shroud, then finally removing the shroud from the vehicle, then you crawl underneath to R&R the tensioner and new belts:

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I prefer room to sit just in case I need to use a toe or something. ;)
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Been working on the motorhome but not taking many pictures. Got all my rotten flooring replaced. Tomorrow, if the weather does what its supposed to, I will be applying a penetrating epoxy to them to seal up the wood and prevent it from absorbing water as easily. Today was spent cleaning up tools and removing the LP tank from its position midships. That tank will be eliminated and I will replace it with two 20 lb tanks in the back. Once the epoxy is down, The wiring can go in (The stuff on the ceiling anyway), the Ceiling will go up, and then its time for walls!

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bmcgc said:
Did you use marine grade plywood?

Spendy, but will last forever.
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No, I didn't. Its very tough to come by around here, and I couldn't find the size I needed. That is a big reason I'm doing the Epoxy sealant. I used ACX Sanded with an exterior rating, and working with it, the center plys are pretty solid (not a lot of voids). Besides, What was there wasn't Marine rated and its lasted 46 years (and longer, since I only replaced about 10% of the floor). If it only lasts another 46 years, I'm good with it!
 
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I tried desperately to find real Marine grade plywood here when I was re-doing the floor in my son's boat and could not get any to save my life.
 
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B1Toad said:
I tried desperately to find real Marine grade plywood here when I was re-doing the floor in my son's boat and could not get any to save my life.
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Yeah, They have 3/4 at Menards (midwest Home Depot) here, but I needed 1" thick material. Finding 1" or 1/2" was not happening. I could have ordered it...but shipping is ridiculous.
 
Mike_H said:
Been working on the motorhome but not taking many pictures. Got all my rotten flooring replaced. Tomorrow, if the weather does what its supposed to, I will be applying a penetrating epoxy to them to seal up the wood and prevent it from absorbing water as easily. Today was spent cleaning up tools and removing the LP tank from its position midships. That tank will be eliminated and I will replace it with two 20 lb tanks in the back. Once the epoxy is down, The wiring can go in (The stuff on the ceiling anyway), the Ceiling will go up, and then its time for walls!

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Mike, Mike, Mike… Really? Are you kidding us? A Truly? Really?

🙂
 
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For those who aren’t aware, the coach is stored at my folks. They have a really big barn and don’t mind my project being in it. They are also about 7 miles away. So close, but not as convenient as walking out the back door into MY shop.

My typical M.O. is to bring the small refinishing and rebuilding projects home with me, so I can work on them more easily. So it goes with the ugly steel seat bases that were pulled out when I did the cockpit floors.

This weekend was focused on getting my seat bases ready to go back in. I realize I’m a ways from needing them, but they have been in my way since they came out. I don’t have any before pictures. They were painted the same brown as the door panels and dash. Along the way, some decided to glue emerald green carpeting to them. Over the years, that glue has failed, and it was a terrible carpeting job anyway. As glue failed, more glue was added. They were pretty ugly.

I had to use a stripping disc to get the old adhesive off, which also pulled the paint. Since we all know how I feel about rust, and I’m not blessed to living in the desert southwest, I shot them with a coat of paint that sort of matches our new color pallet.

Then I went the extra step and wrapped them in vinyl, which will be the color of the door cards and dash, eventually.

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The seat base has a pivot that slides into that tube in the back right hand corner of the seat base. It pretty much hides the top, which is why I only wrapped the first inch or so. Once the skirt from the seat hangs down, you’ll never see it.
 
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