OP
I noticed they were shorter than I expected as well. I'm going to think on it a bit. Not sure its worth sending them back, but I may add a bit more material to them and get more coverage.
A rebuild of #miRustyJeep...
- Thread starter Mike_H
- Start date
I noticed they were shorter than I expected as well. I'm going to think on it a bit. Not sure its worth sending them back, but I may add a bit more material to them and get more coverage.
OP
I was planning on using a formica trimmer or small roundover in my router to clean up the edge. Probably not as convienent, but I already have the router...the inside of the radius will have to be done by hand though.
I don't like the price of this one but it is worth a shot if it comes in a 1/4" shank version for a trim router.
https://dirtchurchindustries.com/products/beveling-bit
Swap out the angle for 2 or 2.5" x 1/2" 6061 T6 bar stock. Cut the length to run from the edge of the bubble beside the seat to a few inches past the last forward hole a screw will go through under the door. You need more flat support than the angle will provide.
edit- is that supposed to be for the corners? It looks like the piece under the doors.
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OP
Yeah, it’s the tub backer that goes on the inside, under the rail for the top.
Your first paragraph has me a little confused. I assume you’re talking about support under the doors, but I’m not sure what you mean about the axle?
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OP
That is interesting. Not sure how well it would actually work in practice. Watched the video and I could hear it chatter. 31,000 rpm is pretty fast for steel.
That little air one sounds faster. But the width across the flutes is shorter so less SFM for cutter speed. But, it makes sOOOOO much noise, I wouldn't even be able to tell if it shot both inserts off of the bit.
OP
Been holding on to this pic until RotM came around...Its probably the best winter shot I've ever taken of my Jeep...Just one of those days that pictures were coming out well.
OP
the Jeep is pissing me off lately. Been fighting a hard start, rough idle when it’s cold. All my troubleshooting lead to the IAC. I pulled it out to clean it and check the function. I have a two way scanner, so I can run a couple extra tests. As soon as I actuated the IAC, the plunger shot across the garage! Apparently, the plunger has become unthreaded and was hanging out too far. I threaded out in all the way, and the Jeep started and idled great! Then it developed a chirp, like immediately. That turned out to be the cam synchronizer. Replaced that and the chirp went away, it was running great again. I fired up the scanner to set my sync timing to zero. The Jeep cooled down to ambient again, and now it won’t start. I guess I’ll dial the adjustment back out. The synchronizer was a
Dorman too. I’m going to try the original sensor and see if that makes a difference.
I’m about ready to go buy a old trailblazer with a good engine…
I guess I’ll dial the adjustment back out. The synchronizer was a
Dorman too. I’m going to try the original sensor and see if that makes a difference.
I’m about ready to go buy a old trailblazer with a good engine…
Take you time, Mike. It will be fine. I’m sure you will not have any problem finding a trailblazer…
OP
Take you time, Mike. It will be fine. I’m sure you will not have any problem finding a trailblazer…
No, they are dirt cheap here. That atlas 4.2 makes nearly the power of a 5.3 LS and it’s still an inline 6. Super easy to turbo charge as well…400 hp is pretty easy to come by.
I guess I’ll dial the adjustment back out. The synchronizer was a
Dorman too. I’m going to try the original sensor and see if that makes a difference.
I’m about ready to go buy a old trailblazer with a good engine…
We've seen similar with a bad CPS on the 05-06. Not completely bad but temperature fussy.
OP
That will be the first thing I try. I epoxied the magnet back in place over the last couple days, so the factory sensor can go back on. I'll try it tonight.
The one we messed with worked perfectly fine as soon as it was warmed up. We couldn't make it fault no matter what we did and the scanner showed it was fine. As soon as the owner got it home and it cooled down overnight, it faulted. He figured it out by removing it, tossing it in some hot water to warm it up and then it started the rig right up. Put it in the freezer to cool it down and it instantly faulted.
We figured out that since we started working on it as soon as it got here and did a whole bunch of AB swaps with known good parts with no change that we never let it cool down to ambient night time temps, so we never would have found the problem.
OP
The weird thing for me is that it fired up great, cold, yesterday before I set the sync (and the day before that). It was running as good as it ever had. I let it warm up to operating temp/closed loop and set my sync. Shut it off. Came back out after a couple hours (and cooled back off) and it wouldn't start. If I opened the throttle, it would start but as soon as I let off to idle, it stalled. (which, incidentally, is right back to where I was when I started this whole fiasco).
OP