4.6 Golen Engine Swap Preparation

This summer with my Atlas in we can race
The nv3550 should give me a slight advantage.

Unless you go 5.13. Then you should barely win.

Me: 4.88x4.01x5=97.8
You 4.88x3.83x5=93.6
W/ 5.13xx3.83x5=98.2

If I was you I'd highly consider 5.13. Unless you do a lot of cruising at high speeds.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Woodrow
The nv3550 should give me a slight advantage.

Unless you go 5.13. Then you should barely win.

Me: 4.88x4.01x5=97.8
You 4.88x3.83x5=93.6
W/ 5.13xx3.83x5=98.2

If I was you I'd highly consider 5.13. Unless you do a lot of cruising at high speeds.

I think you mentioned 5.13 last fall when we were talking. Tell me again why you would go that way?
 
Can us Non-Atlas guys get in on this?
Since @Woodrow and @Alex01 both have 5:1 does that mean I can use my Low-low range? It's only 5.44:1 And that is @NashvilleTJ low with his crawler box engaged.

One on 40's
One on 38's
Two on 35's

Should be interesting.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Woodrow
Can us Non-Atlas guys get in on this?
Since @Woodrow and @Alex01 both have 5:1 does that mean I can use my Low-low range? It's only 5.44:1 And that is @NashvilleTJ low with his crawler box engaged.

One on 40's
One on 38's
Two on 35's

Should be interesting.

Top search before the race. "How to lower your idle speed"
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Wildman and Woodrow
Top search before the race. "How to lower your idle speed"

PCM sets your idle speed. So a HPT tuner and I should be able to drop mine to 500 RPM's... ;) But I would NEVER go to such lengths to win...

We'll see how much of a lope my cam has finally now that the heads are fixed. I've got a stroker too but it ain't the same..
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alex01 and Woodrow
That is with the 231 and Rubi

OK... Got to try and keep it somewhat level playing field.. I've got 5.13's but with an auto my final crawl ratio is only in the 60's. You combined is about 7.40:1 with the two 2.72 ratios combined.

I had a Samurai that was in the 100:1 range and it was fun to hope out and walk along beside.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Woodrow
@Alex01 is almost at 100 and that seemed totally feasible when I drove it. Now you guys have me thinking 5.13 instead of 4.88 when I regear.

Even with your stroker motor I think you'll like 5.13's for on road driving. I know it's not the same but I've got 5.13 gears in mine.
 
@Alex01 is almost at 100 and that seemed totally feasible when I drove it. Now you guys have me thinking 5.13 instead of 4.88 when I regear.

I would. It would put your crawl ratio just about right where I am now and you'll still be able to drive 70 on the highway with ease.

Grimmjeeper has 5.13 at 3000rpm @77mph.

If my locker goes out and I need to set the gears I'll likely jump to 5.38 just to make going up hills nicer in 4th gear. (cheaper than a stroker)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Woodrow and Wildman
Placed the deposit on the motor today. Scheduled to ship the 2nd week of April.

As of today my parts list consists of:

Starter motor (Mopar)
Brake Master Cylinder (Mopar)
Clutch Kit (Luk)
Motor Mounts (Anchor)
Water pump (Mopar)
Thermostat & housing (Mopar)
Fan clutch (Mopar?)
Brakes (BMB) - I've been looking at his caliper-rotors-pads kit. Any recommendations on replacement brake lines?
Fuel Pump - Is Delphi still the recommended brand for a fuel system refresh? Partial rebuild with Mopar parts?
Regear to 4.11 - This one will be dictated by finances when the time comes. Sticking to 3.73 on 31s should be good enough for now. Will want to do this regear eventually whether I jump to 33s or not.
Driveshaft U-joints - They look to be in good condition, but the way I'll be getting after it with the extra power, I'm thinking it could be a good idea to replace with new. This could also be another "don't fix it if it ain't broke" item. Would go with Spicer.

What am I missing?

Thanks
 
Placed the deposit on the motor today. Scheduled to ship the 2nd week of April.

As of today my parts list consists of:

Starter motor (Mopar)
Brake Master Cylinder (Mopar)
Clutch Kit (Luk)
Motor Mounts (Anchor)
Water pump (Mopar)
Thermostat & housing (Mopar)
Fan clutch (Mopar?)
Brakes (BMB) - I've been looking at his caliper-rotors-pads kit. Any recommendations on replacement brake lines?
Fuel Pump - Is Delphi still the recommended brand for a fuel system refresh? Partial rebuild with Mopar parts?
Regear to 4.11 - This one will be dictated by finances when the time comes. Sticking to 3.73 on 31s should be good enough for now. Will want to do this regear eventually whether I jump to 33s or not.
Driveshaft U-joints - They look to be in good condition, but the way I'll be getting after it with the extra power, I'm thinking it could be a good idea to replace with new. This could also be another "don't fix it if it ain't broke" item. Would go with Spicer.

What am I missing?

Thanks

Are you sure you won't want to go with 4.56 gears? Since you pull a trailer even with the stroker I'd think that little bit of extra eumph would be nice and when off-road would give you just a little more control. Play around with the GrimmJeeper gearing calculator. I always like to over gear a little.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alex01 and GPK03X