SYE on stock TJ?

Why the change, then? Decades ago.

No clue, you stated condescendingly that "Jeep has done this for decades" as if this has always been the case, and I pointed out that's not accurate. Just clearing up the post, and noting that Jeep did it another way for decades.

Sounds like you should know, please enlighten us. The change happened when Chrysler took over, and I'm sure Lee Iacocca would Never do something to save cost, it was just to have superior performance.

I pointed out a possible viable option, @machoheadgames actually contributed and stated a reason it may not work which I didn't think of, which may be 100% accurate.

I'd want to measure my CJ5 rear DS numbers I sent to Shawn at TWDS vs the numbers I sent for my TJ, it's a valid point and might make it no doable.
 
No clue, you stated condescendingly that "Jeep has done this for decades" as if this has always been the case, and I pointed out that's not accurate. Just clearing up the post, and noting that Jeep did it another way for decades.

Sounds like you should know, please enlighten us. The change happened when Chrysler took over, and I'm sure Lee Iacocca would Never do something to save cost, it was just to have superior performance.

I pointed out a possible viable option, @machoheadgames actually contributed and stated a reason it may not work which I didn't think of, which may be 100% accurate.

I'd want to measure my CJ5 rear DS numbers I sent to Shawn at TWDS vs the numbers I sent for my TJ, it's a valid point and might make it no doable.

You are far more worked up about this than I am. 🤣
 
I would need to ask @Shawn at Tom Wood's or someone similar, but I believe the TJ/YJ didn’t have this style because they were too short. CJs had shorter drivetrains that resulted in longer driveshafts. The driveshaft on my CJ with the 3-speed manual was similar in length to that of a TJ unlimited. My guess is a driveshaft needs to be 18-20” or so before it can have a slip joint in it. But I’d need an expert to chime in on that.

Both the older cast iron transmissions and the cast iron gear drive transfer cases were shorter.

First I want to verify that "Stock" in this conversation means no suspension lift, right? That's my assumption but I frequently talk to people who say their vehicle is "stock" even though it is lifted or otherwise modified.

This type of shaft, the type posted above by @cpwolf, could indeed be made for a TJ with an SYE. It's slightly more complicated than that though. Any SYE I know of is going to come with a double cardan style yoke. These are slightly different than a u-bolt style yoke, which means you'd need a different yoke. To complicate things further the u-bolt yoke uses a different seal, which means you'd need a different output seal on the SYE. The yoke an seal together are around $100. If you do those things, you could run a shaft with a single joint at each end that has a slip yoke integrated into the drive shaft (the shaft compresses and extends). The shaft would be cheaper than a double cardan but you'd still be looking at around $700 for the SYE, yoke, seal, and drive shaft. If you can find a used stock output shaft, maybe one that someone else took out when installing an SYE, for $100 you'd only be spending around $400 for the output shaft and stock type drive shaft.

Normally I'd say that there's no reason to install an SYE if you don't plan on running a double cardan. However, if the output shaft has to be replaced anyway, I'm guessing because it is bent or damaged, it might make sense to just install the SYE. Even without a double cardan the fixed yoke output on the transfer case is a better design. I don't know for sure because I wasn't in the room when the decision was made, but I'm pretty sure the reason they switched to slip yoke style transfer cases in the YJ an TJ was due to cost. Whether or not the OP should do this depends on the price, how much you prefer one design over the other, and how much that preference is worth to you.
 
I just re-read the original post and want to answer that post more concisely and directly.

1) Will the HD 1310 rear driveshaft bolt up to the stock yoke on the Dana 44 rear or will I need some sort of adapters? Yes, a 1310 series shaft will bolt directly to your stock rear pinion yoke.

2) I don’t see any “real” benefits to doing this mod other than its better quality and comparable cost to getting the OEM output shaft and drive shaft. I don’t wheel the Jeep offroad, so I’m not concerned about height/clearance/approach angles. Are there any negatives to doing the SYE on a stock daily driver? The SYE is indeed a better design, it makes for a more stable drive shaft attachment at the transfer case and lessens operating angle of the shaft by making the joint to joint length longer thus increasing run in the rise/run equation. The only disadvantage is that it is more expensive.