I can appreciate that he isn’t using offset tre’s or heims, but don’t love the 2 bends in the tie rod.
Mid-arm LJ Rubicon
- Thread starter sunnysideup_lj
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I can appreciate that he isn’t using offset tre’s or heims, but don’t love the 2 bends in the tie rod.
gasiorv
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I understand. After running the offset TREs with a straight Tie Rod (making it easily adjustable), if you couldn't get the straight tie rod with the straight TREs by modifying the diff cover, or whatever. Would you consider the offset TREs or bend the Tie Rod (making it non-adjustable while installed)?
gasiorv
I'm a new world samurai, and a redneck nonetheless
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With the Heims, it would make it really easy to remove the joints from the knuckle to adjust the tie rod length. But the bends in the tie rod would allow for an offset load to be applied to the tie rod and thus into the joints similar to the offset joints. Not sure which would be better or worse.
gasiorv
I'm a new world samurai, and a redneck nonetheless
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Don't think I would be able to drive it with a boxed in pitman arm but if I could I would find a way to come down on it and bend something.
Don't think I would be able to drive it with a boxed in pitman arm but if I could I would find a way to come down on it and bend something.
I know this is out of my league, so forgive my ignorance, but isn’t it possible to design a skid that respects the pitman arm radius? Doesn’t necessarily have to box in, but does need to deflect.
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I'd like to see it up close and in person, but it looks like his tires are far enough forward a lot of that would be avoided... and of course there is "driving" instead of bull dozing... lol.. but it is sticking out there pretty good, it could take a hit.
LIke JMT asked, I'm sure there could be some protection built for it.
"No modification goes unpunished" is something I find myself saying a lot. That and "You usually have to do three other things in order to get the one thing done".
I would think the potential benefits of the stretch would out weigh the detractors as long as you could come up with a good skid for it. I just thought it was interesting
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I'd like to see it up close and in person, but it looks like his tires are far enough forward a lot of that would be avoided... and of course there is "driving" instead of bull dozing... lol.. but it is sticking out there pretty good, it could take a hit.
LIke JMT asked, I'm sure there could be some protection built for it.
"No modification goes unpunished" is something I find myself saying a lot. That and "You usually have to do three other things in order to get the one thing done".
I would think the potential benefits of the stretch would out weigh the detractors as long as you could come up with a good skid for it. I just thought it was interesting
Or, just eliminate the pitman arm completely.....
Or, just eliminate the pitman arm completely.....
lol.. full hydro... well... that is an option... but for me... I still drive mine on the interstate when so desired.
Finally got around to tearing into this front axle. I had high hopes that the long side shaft would be one piece since the FAD is not an option on the 392’s. Unfortunately it is a 2 piece shaft that is coupled together.
My plan is still to cut the FAD casting out, this shaft will need to be replaced with a one piece shaft. I am currently looking at axles made by Mitchell Differential. These shafts are one piece, and use a 1480 U-joint offered in both 32 and 35 spline inners. This kit also relocates the axle seal next to the diff rather than in the FAD.
Few notes on the housing. Axles tubes measure 2.75” OD, .395” wall. FAD casting has a seal towards the outside and a bearing towards the inside.
My plan is still to cut the FAD casting out, this shaft will need to be replaced with a one piece shaft. I am currently looking at axles made by Mitchell Differential. These shafts are one piece, and use a 1480 U-joint offered in both 32 and 35 spline inners. This kit also relocates the axle seal next to the diff rather than in the FAD.
Few notes on the housing. Axles tubes measure 2.75” OD, .395” wall. FAD casting has a seal towards the outside and a bearing towards the inside.
Should be a good set up for the light weight class.
I have never ran them personally, but from what I’ve seen I do not want to deal with the maintenance.
Gotcha! yeah rcvs like to sling grease around too since the boots can only do so much. Hence the often greasing they need!
That's why im gonna stick with a full float front,I was digging the idea of doing a JL/JT axle swap and use a dynatrac housing to eliminate the fad. but for dailying id like to switch off the front via the locking hubs
And for the rear welp....I wanted a full float JL rear axle but I went another route with a full floater fabricated 9"
Have you run them D? I do and have never once had them sling grease. The boots on mine seal perfectly, and I've never had to add grease due to loss.
Although in my case, I do not put a lot of miles on, which may be why mine have lasted.
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Yeah I haven't ran them,but some of the guys ive wheeled with have told me their experiences. But that's their only real complaint a about the rcvs ! but they also daily their rigs
Mine do throw a little grease onto the tire inner sidewalls. Not a big deal and definitely worth the lack of bind when pushing into a straight climb up a rock with the wheel turned hard.
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I've had mine in since I believe 2018, no hubs. They can be a be a little greasy but it hasn't been an issue.
Driven it to Colorado and Moab on separate trips so they have some miles on it before I trailered for a couple years and now flat tow so they've made their fair share of rotations.
Only time I've added grease is when I've had them out for something else and needed to pull the boot off. When I do that I clean them up, reinstall and then grease them back up.
Only complaint I have is the price of the plastic boot that I had to replace when one of the unit bearings failed.
I've heard they can start clicking but haven't encountered that issue so far.
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