Installing a 3" lift, help me do it right

GregBelleville · Sep 6, 2026

I've been absorbing information on here for a few years now and appreciate all of the knowledge on this forum.

I'm getting ready to take the next step in upgrading the suspension on my TJ, which is springs, body lift and shocks.

I've got a set of Rock Jock 3" springs set to go in (33"tires) as well as a BMB 1 ¼" body lift.

That just leaves me with shocks and bump stop extensions, which is the reason for this post.

Does the body lift need to be installed before I measure for shocks? I'm assuming yes, but want to confirm.

When measuring for shocks I will need to remove current shocks and springs. Install the Rock Jock springs and cycle the axle to full bump and full droop?

CMBD · Sep 6, 2026

Why the body lift?

Luke90 · Sep 7, 2026

my advice is to measure after installing bth springs and body, as with the body lift you will have more clearance in compression. then you go with bumpstops.
back in the days I did it like this, but didn't wanted to cut the fenders... now I'm not sure it's still the best option, as you lose a lot in compression with 37" tyres.

jjvw · Sep 7, 2026

GregBelleville said:
...

Does the body lift need to be installed before I measure for shocks? I'm assuming yes, but want to confirm.

Yes. Because you need to know where the tires fit when you cycle the axles without springs installed.

GregBelleville said:
When measuring for shocks I will need to remove current shocks and springs. Install the Rock Jock springs and cycle the axle to full bump and full droop?

First, you need to know the normal ride height with springs installed.

-Measure the distance between stock mounts at normal ride height.

-Then measure the distance between shock mounts with the springs just before full extension with light pressure on the spring seats.

-Remove the springs. And raise the axle up to identify where the first interference is. That might be tires into the steel fenders, track bar into diff cover. Learn what that is. Measure the distance between shock mounts. If you are feeling ambitious, find the next point of interference, especially if tires were the first point.

You now have the window in which a shock will fit. Find one that will sit at half travel at ride height. The extended and compressed lengths should fit inside that window of measurements.

The bump stops happen after the shocks are installed. The goal is to extend the cups enough to make the jounces do there job of helping slow the travel speed of the shock before full compression.

GregBelleville · Sep 7, 2026

jjvw said:
Yes. Because you need to know where the tires fit when you cycle the axles without springs installed.

First, you need to know the normal ride height with springs installed.

-Measure the distance between stock mounts at normal ride height.

-Then measure the distance between shock mounts with the springs just before full extension with light pressure on the spring seats.

-Remove the springs. And raise the axle up to identify where the first interference is. That might be tires into the steel fenders, track bar into diff cover. Learn what that is. Measure the distance between shock mounts. If you are feeling ambitious, find the next point of interference, especially if tires were the first point.

You now have the window in which a shock will fit. Find one that will sit at half travel at ride height. The extended and compressed lengths should fit inside that window of measurements.

The bump stops happen after the shocks are installed. The goal is to extend the cups enough to make the jounces do there job of helping slow the travel speed of the shock before full compression.

Thanks JJ, that gives me a good plan to follow. I'm just looking for some out of the box shocks at this point, but I want to make sure I'm getting the correct set for my rig that gives me close to that 50/50 of travel at ride height.

Since I need to replace the current body lift on my TJ, is there anything I need to watch out for in the process? The current body lift is like 2 ¾"

. So I'm going to be dropping it down by over an inch when I install Mr Blaine's body lift.

GregBelleville · Sep 7, 2026

CMBD said:
Why the body lift?

Eventually plan to tuck it.

jjvw · Sep 7, 2026

GregBelleville said:
....

Since I need to replace the current body lift on my TJ, is there anything I need to watch out for in the process? The current body lift is like 2 ¾" . So I'm going to be dropping it down by over an inch when I install Mr Blaine's body lift.

The only thing I can think of would be adjusting the fan shroud.

GregBelleville · Friday at 11:00 PM

Ok I put in some work on Labor Day

.

Got the BMB body lift installed without much drama.

These springs on the other hand were kind of a bitch to get in. With sway bar and track bar disconnected I was able to squeeze them in with a bit of pry bar persuasion.

Some questions about the finer details with this process.

The springs are in, should I be doing anything to get them to settle before taking measurements? Do I need to drive it even though I don't have shocks?

Should the axles be recentered before cycling and measuring, or can I put that off until the end?

Lastly, I would appreciate any tips on the best way to simulate ride height with the frame on jack stands.

inkedrose · Friday at 11:52 PM

I didn't see anything about an SYE? If I remember correctly anything over 2" you either need to ad that or a T-case drop

macleanflood · Saturday at 5:46 AM

GregBelleville said:
Lastly, I would appreciate any tips on the best way to simulate ride height with the frame on jack stands.

Screw type RV leveling jacks work great. I luckily find them all the time in abandoned RVs.

Driving without shocks is fun but fine. I'd take a slow lap around the neighborhood.

I simulated ride height by stacking weights in my Jeep to approximate my weight and my typical camping gear load.

-Mac

GregBelleville · Saturday at 8:15 AM

inkedrose said:
I didn't see anything about an SYE? If I remember correctly anything over 2" you either need to ad that or a T-case drop

I debated between accumulating all of the parts needed to avoid the t case drop, which is the SYE and a DC driveshaft at this point.

Impatience has gotten the better of me I guess, so I'm doing this in stages. I'll eventually get the SSSYE from JB and a Woody.

Budgets are a bitch!

inkedrose · Saturday at 9:38 AM

GregBelleville said:
I debated between accumulating all of the parts needed to avoid the t case drop, which is the SYE and a DC driveshaft at this point.

Impatience has gotten the better of me I guess, so I'm doing this in stages. I'll eventually get the SSSYE from JB and a Woody.

Budgets are a bitch!

The words Jeep and budget don't go together

GregBelleville · Saturday at 4:49 PM

Ok, another noob question.

I'm trying to get the axle to droop enough to the point the springs are almost unseated. I can't get the axle to drop far enough to do that. Should I be disconnecting the sway bar and track bar if necessary to take my measurements at full droop?

This is as low as I can get it and the spring still has plenty of pressure.

jjvw · Saturday at 4:58 PM

GregBelleville said:
Ok, another noob question.

I'm trying to get the axle to droop enough to the point the springs are almost unseated. I can't get the axle to drop far enough to do that. Should I be disconnecting the sway bar and track bar if necessary to take my measurements at full droop?

This is as low as I can get it and the spring still has plenty of pressure.

View attachment 709712

Disconnect a link on the antirock

Rickyd · Saturday at 7:22 PM

GregBelleville said:
Thanks JJ, that gives me a good plan to follow. I'm just looking for some out of the box shocks at this point, but I want to make sure I'm getting the correct set for my rig that gives me close to that 50/50 of travel at ride height.

Since I need to replace the current body lift on my TJ, is there anything I need to watch out for in the process? The current body lift is like 2 ¾" . So I'm going to be dropping it down by over an inch when I install Mr Blaine's body lift.

Is the steering shaft centered in the firewall boot? Anything weird going on with the fill hoses now?

GregBelleville · Saturday at 10:38 PM

Rickyd said:
Is the steering shaft centered in the firewall boot? Anything weird going on with the fill hoses now?

Good call, I need to check both of those areas after the body lift drop. The fan shroud needs adjustment, it's now very close at the top to the fan.

For the fill hose, am I just looking for kinks?

GregBelleville · Sunday at 3:55 PM

Ok, intermission time. I ran into a problem while trying to reconnect the track bar after taking the springs out.

The track bar bolt got cross threaded into the flag nut and I have stripped the torx head on the bolt.

Any ideas on how to remove this bolt? I'm thinking about getting a cut off wheel in between the bracket and track bar bushing to cut the bolt in there?

TRevs · Sunday at 4:49 PM

That’s a tight spot for a cutoff wheel. Maybe a steel blade on a jigsaw or reciprocating saw?

Or cut flats onto the bolt head and try with vice grips to back to bolt out of the flag nut?

jjvw · Sunday at 4:51 PM

Recip saw where you circled.

GregBelleville · Sunday at 4:53 PM

TRevs said:
That’s a tight spot for a cutoff wheel. Maybe a steel blade on a jigsaw or reciprocating saw?

Or cut flats onto the bolt head and try with vice grips to back to bolt out of the flag nut?

Both of those ideas sound better than the cut off wheel for sure.

Installing a 3" lift, help me do it right

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