Why are my rear springs completely collapsed? (pics attatched - ford 8.8 swap)

Measure first
46153a0f3d853a52a77ef99e9876abf3.jpg


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npalmi88 said:
Just the opposite, when I changed them 4 or 5 months ago (all was same), I had to literally jack the body up just to get the schocks to fit. They are completely bottomed out.
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Interesting. What lift are your shocks rated at?


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Measure the control arms, there is a table to convert their length to the lift height out there.

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I would suggest parking the Jeep on level ground. Take a jack, raise Jeep up(by the rear bumper) until it's level, or has the stance(rake) you prefer. Then measure the length of the spring with Jeep sitting on jack.

Take that number and compare it whatever new rear spring you just installed. Research the spring rate you have in there now, and add to that appropriately. Add in height needed too.

Old Man Emu has rear spacers, part # OMEWTJPR10. JKS has a ACOS rear threaded thing that is adjustable in height if you want to adjust after you installed the spring of your choice. There also other rear spring spacer such as Energy Suspension 2-6103G.

Don't forget to install new jounce bump stop while you have springs out. (I haven't had any luck squeezing mine thru the springs after lift.)

After you get the spring selection sorted, cycle your suspension and make sure you have the correct amount of bumpstop. After that, pick a set of shocks with the correct amount of travel.

Also check your brake line when cycling the suspension making sure it's long enough.
 
DO NOT USE A CHART FOR ARM LENGTH.
Can start there, but using the chart length will cause clearance issues with tires and front track bar. You need to read on how to cycle your suspension properly. Lots of info on it. Those charts cause a lot of issues if one does not cycle their suspension and verify clearances.
 
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Gollywomper said:
DO NOT USE A CHART FOR ARM LENGTH.
Can start there, but using the chart length will cause clearance issues with tires and front track bar. You need to read on how to cycle your suspension properly. Lots of info on it. Those charts cause a lot of issues if one does not cycle their suspension and verify clearances.
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The chart was for reverse engineering his existing arm to lift height. Not as a tool to choose new arms. These charts are all averages and are to be used in conjunction common sense and as you suggest other tests.

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npalmi88 said:
View attachment 101375View attachment 101374

So, my UCAs are about 17.25 (according to the chart that puts me between 6-7", there's no way I'm at that) and my front is about 13.5
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In these pictures you measure the lower control arm( or LCA ) are you measuring center to center? And if yes. Then that Jeep may indeed have had a real tall lift. Not likely 6-7 but 4.5 - 5 since 6 inch short arm kits are rare. Does the Jeep have a slip yoke eliminator? Take a picture of the drive shaft leaving the t-case.

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Alex01 said:
That chart is useless for your application. If it was a dana 35/44 maybe.... but still to many variables.
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The arm chart of useless for any application because once you put the axle where it needs to be in order to make the drive shaft happy, land on the bumps and also have clear travel, the final measurement is completely irrelevant. It is what it is.

If the arm chart has any accuracy, it is for one specific setup and the Jeep must be setup to exactly match that setup before the chart has a chance of matching the Jeep.
 
So it appears this rig is running on stock springs with a 2" budget boost, no bump stop extensions, sporting 35's?
 
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