Let's talk optimal build for 31" tires

I'm finding that I can't get the 241 fully compressed either. I'm also running around a 2" bumpstop extension in the rear. I have a set of BPEs that I could put in that will move the eye closer to the body at full bump which will trade that extra inch of up travel for downtravel.

The other thing that mucks with the rear end is the angle at which the shock operates. You don't have a 1 for 1 ratio like you do in the front. For every inch of compression you get in the axle, you get less compression in the shock, because of the angle it operates. Its also going to change angles as it compresses...At least, I think so...I need to test the theory, but trig tells me that its so. I need to measure the angles and actually do the calcs...

And given all that....does it even matter?
I've done this. The BPE's that is. With 2" of bump stop to keep my TB from hitting the rear crossmember I do get a better travel bias without bottoming out the 241's. Pressing out the bar pin and in the sleeves is a PITA! With all this shock playing around with, it tasks me!
 
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I wouldn’t be too disappointed with the rear. I think those numbers look really good. You’re not going to get very long shocks in the rear with stock mounts. Even at 4” spring lift most shock sizes that fit well are around 9-9.5” travel. It just sounds wimpy compared to an outboarded 12 🙂 At one point I got the next size up rancho shock and mounted the par bin on top of the crossmember instead of below. It’s super easy and gains you an additional 1” of uptravel. I’m not sure if that works with shocks other than ranchos though. I looked for you and the next length up rancho is 9.6” travel. If you mounted those on top of the crossmember then you’d be at 4” up and 5.6” down. I like the shorter shock size option you originally mentioned better. Something else you could do is move the lower mounts outward a little bit if you’re not opposed to cutting and welding. Metalcloak makes lower shock mounts that straddle the inner face of the control arm bracket. Moving the mounts outward would allow for a slightly longer shock but not a huge gain. You couldn’t do ranchos with those mounts though because the bodies are too large and hit the frame at articulation. Just some ideas I thought of but like I said I like your original numbers from yesterday.
 
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Did you look into moving the rear shock mounts? If I lifted 2.25” and only got slightly more than stock travel due to being limited by shocks, I wouldn’t be happy. Not saying it’s a fail! But it reminds me of that saying that floats around here, “...90% of the effort is spent getting the last 10% of performance”. But by all means, if you are satisfied with what you’ve already accomplished, then run it!
Based on what I'm seeing I gained about 1.5" of travel out back and 2" up front. I looked at moving the lower bracket, but that won't gain me enough to make it worth it. At some point I'll be doing an outboarded rear shock, so I decided to call it for now. It's certainly not where I want it yet, but at the same time, overall, the Jeep will be a very capable wheeler on 31" tires. Besides, if I really want to get good shock travel I'll drive the LJ! ;)

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I wouldn’t be too disappointed with the rear. I think those numbers look really good. You’re not going to get very long shocks in the rear with stock mounts. Even at 4” spring lift most shock sizes that fit well are around 9-9.5” travel. It just sounds wimpy compared to an outboarded 12 🙂 At one point I got the next size up rancho shock and mounted the par bin on top of the crossmember instead of below. It’s super easy and gains you an additional 1” of uptravel. I’m not sure if that works with shocks other than ranchos though. I looked for you and the next length up rancho is 9.6” travel. If you mounted those on top of the crossmember then you’d be at 4” up and 5.6” down. I like the shorter shock size option you originally mentioned better. Something else you could do is move the lower mounts outward a little bit if you’re not opposed to cutting and welding. Metalcloak makes lower shock mounts that straddle the inner face of the control arm bracket. Moving the mounts outward would allow for a slightly longer shock but not a huge gain. You couldn’t do ranchos with those mounts though because the bodies are too large and hit the frame at articulation. Just some ideas I thought of but like I said I like your original numbers from yesterday.
As difficult as it is, I'm staying true to my intent for this build, i.e. squeeze out the best travel I can get with a 31" tire. I do like the idea of mounting the bar pin up top, but with the current H&R spring setup I really can't use much more up or down travel. By the time I hit 22.5" extended, the rear spring is completely unseated. On the up travel side, I have to run a 2" bump stop which limits me there .

As @SecondChanceTJ repeated, 90% of the work is spent on the last 10% improvements. I can certainly verify that, and will continue to look at ways to squeak out more, As I said though, I know an outboard is the right answer, so I don't want to waste time and money where the payback isn't worth it. On the positive side, I've learned a lot. Especially that building correctly for 31" tires is actually more difficult than building for 33" tires. :)
 
Okay folks, I need a sanity check here. I've studied these numbers until I'm cross eyed. Without doing a shock out-boarding, or other shock mount modifications, the best possible shock combination I can come up with, for 31" tires, using the H&R springs and a 1" spacer is the Rancho RS55239 (Front) and Rancho RS55241 (Rear). This results in the following travel:

Front (239) = 4.57" up and 4.84" down. This gives a total front shock travel of 9.41" inches
Rear (241) = 4.5" up and 3.67" down. This gives me a total rear shock travel of 8.17"

Although the front didn't hit my target of 10", I can live with those numbers. The rear on the other hand is disappointing, since my target here was to get close to 9".

FWIW, these are other numbers I'm now seeing with a 31" tire:

-14+" at the gas tank skid
-15+" at the transfer case skid
-13+" at the front of the oil pan skid
-25.75" at the rear tub (behind the rear flare)
-2.25" suspension lift
-1.25" body lift

To get there, I was able to make the Currie front and rear track bars work with the 1" H&R springs, 1" aluminum coil spacers, Savvy control arms, and Savvy UA.

That said, given those numbers, can I call this a success? I'd really like to order the shocks and driveshafts, so I can finally test drive the work so far. Thoughts?
Hey! I am taking a new look at your posts with a new perspective, since I have learned a few more things about suspension the last months.

My questions is how did you manage to run front RS55239 shocks, with springs with such a small free length, without springs unseating when shocks are fully extended?
 
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My questions is how did you manage to run front RS55239 shocks, with springs with such a small free length, without springs unseating when shocks are fully extended?
I ended up not running Rancho shocks. The lengths wouldn't work for me. Instead, I went with Skyjacker Black Max B8518 and B8525. They matched up nicely with my needs. Also, I'd have to go digging, but I'm reasonably sure I factored in the allowance for the springs to unseat about a 1/2" to 1".

FWIW, there's nothing magical about that number, it was just where my shocks landed when fully extended. This was one of the trades I had to make with a spring that had a shorter free length. One thing I discovered on my 31" tire build (with 1" springs and a 1" aluminum spacer), was the max shock travel I could get on the rear equaled roughly 8.5 inches. In my case it ended up being 4" up and 4.5" down. That was as close to and even split as I could get.
 
I ended up not running Rancho shocks. The lengths wouldn't work for me. Instead, I went with Skyjacker Black Max B8518 and B8525. They matched up nicely with my needs. Also, I'd have to go digging, but I'm reasonably sure I factored in the allowance for the springs to unseat about a 1/2" to 1".

FWIW, there's nothing magical about that number, it was just where my shocks landed when fully extended. This was one of the trades I had to make with a spring that had a shorter free length. One thing I discovered on my 31" tire build (with 1" springs and a 1" aluminum spacer), was the max shock travel I could get on the rear equaled roughly 8.5 inches. In my case it ended up being 4" up and 4.5" down. That was as close to and even split as I could get.
Oh right! I didn't realise that was the same build. I know you are running SkyJacker Black Maxes.

Still, I am surprised that you are running only 16.38" springs + 1" spacer = 17.38" free length and your shocks (B8525) only unseats about a 1/2" to 1".

If my calculations are correct, my TJ would need around 20.5" free length in order for B8525 to stay in place. That's weird. (My front springs' free length is at 18.9")

Question: If your front spring unseats about 1", that means that your shock travel reduces from 9.78" to 8.78"?
Is that 1" usable? or because there is no traction due to lack of pressure it is not usable?
 
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Oh right! I didn't realise that was the same build. I know you are running SkyJacker Black Maxes.

Still, I am surprised that you are running only 16.38" springs + 1" spacer = 17.38" free length and your shocks (B8525) only unseats about a 1/2" to 1".

If my calculations are correct, my TJ would need around 20.5" free length in order for B8525 to stay in place. That's weird. (My front springs' free length is at 18.9")

Question: If your front spring unseats about 1", that means that your shock travel reduces from 9.78" to 8.78"?
Is that 1" usable? or because there is no traction due to lack of pressure it is not usable?
Your math is correct. There's more to the story here. I bought two sets of shocks for the front, to experiment with, B8525 and B8516. With the H&R Springs and 1" spacer I'm currently sitting at 4" up travel, on the 8525 shocks. My plan is to move the front end up another 1", to level it out. This will put me at roughly 5" up and 4.78 down. The springs will unseat a little more (2+"), but that doesn't worry me. They're not coming out. If I stay at the current height, the 8516s will need to go in. None of this will happen until I get my HP30 done and installed. (y)
 
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Your math is correct. There's more to the story here. I bought two sets of shocks for the front, to experiment with, B8525 and B8516. With the H&R Springs and 1" spacer I'm currently sitting at 4" up travel, on the 8525 shocks. My plan is to move the front end up another 1", to level it out. This will put me at roughly 5" up and 4.78 down. The springs will unseat a little more (2+"), but that doesn't worry me. They're not coming out. If I stay at the current height, the 8516s will need to go in. None of this will happen until I get my HP30 done and installed. (y)
By the time you will end up with B8525 shocks and 5" up travel how much lift you would have on front? 3.5"? 4"?

* I mean suspension lift
 
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By the time you will end up with B8525 shocks and 5" up travel how much lift you would have on front? 3.5"? 4"?

* I mean suspension lift
To make the B8525 work I'm going to need a minimum of a 3" suspension lift. I need some time to get real numbers here though. Currently, I have three sets of springs that can be experimented with, including 1" H&R, 2" BDS, and 3" Nth degree. That said, I know the limits of using the H&R springs. Using those and a 1" spacer up front, the best shock travel I can expect to get is roughly 5 up and 4.21 down, using the B8516.

If I switch to the B8525, and more suspension lift, I'm only gaining, potentially, .57". This is the biggest lesson I've learned so far with sticking to a 31" tire. That is, you really have to be willing to work a lot to squeeze out 9.25" of shock travel without having your Jeep look like it's sitting on stilts. Frankly, I had aspirations of making it to a 10" travel shock. However, this is a case where, as the saying goes, the juice isn't worth the squeeze. All in all, I'm content that I was able to make it close to my goal, while having a Jeep that looks proportional and performs exceptionally well. Lastly, I haven't given up hope yet that my original goal can be obtained! ;)
 
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To make the B8525 work I'm going to need a minimum of a 3" suspension lift. I need some time to get real numbers here though. Currently, I have three sets of springs that can be experimented with, including 1" H&R, 2" BDS, and 3" Nth degree. That said, I know the limits of using the H&R springs. Using those and a 1" spacer up front, the best shock travel I can expect to get is roughly 5 up and 4.21 down, using the B8516.

If I switch to the B8525, and more suspension lift, I'm only gaining, potentially, .57". This is the biggest lesson I've learned so far with sticking to a 31" tire. That is, you really have to be willing to work a lot to squeeze out 9.25" of shock travel without having your Jeep look like it's sitting on stilts. Frankly, I had aspirations of making it to a 10" travel shock. However, this is a case where, as the saying goes, the juice isn't worth the squeeze. All in all, I'm content that I was able to make it close to my goal, while having a Jeep that looks proportional and performs exceptionally well. Lastly, I haven't given up hope yet that my original goal can be obtained! ;)
Which shock has a 10" travel?

The only ones I can find are:
Rancho RS55255
Teraflex Falcon
OME 60047L

But for totally different lifts
 
There were two I was looking at originally. The Rancho RS55255 and a Bilstein 4600 monotube shock. The Bilstein model number I was looking at wasn't specific to the TJ, but would work. Unfortunately, I can't seem to locate the part number.
 
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There were two I was looking at originally. The Rancho RS55255 and a Bilstein 4600 monotube shock. The Bilstein model number I was looking at wasn't specific to the TJ, but would work. Unfortunately, I can't seem to locate the part number.
If I am not mistaken Rancho RS55255 would need more or less 5" lift. How would you make this work? By moving shock mounts?
 
If I am not mistaken Rancho RS55255 would need more or less 5" lift. How would you make this work? By moving shock mounts?
Now we're getting somewhere. That's the main reason I abandoned Rancho, or other gas shocks. Their compressed lengths we longer and couldn't work with my setup. If they ae going to work, it simply means more lift or modification to the mounts.

The foam cell designed Skyjacker offered longer extended lengths and shorter compressed lengths. This essentially resulted in more travel for my shorter setup and tire combination. If I could order a custom shock, the front would be close to 13.5" compressed and 23.5" extended.

Edit: FWIW, this is exactly why you hear so much about cycling the suspension. You won't know what really works, or what you need, until you work through the kinks!
 
If I am not mistaken Rancho RS55255 would need more or less 5" lift. How would you make this work? By moving shock mounts?

4.5" would put it exactly 50/50 but I've got 4" of lift and just a hair under 5" of uptravel which I'm happy with.

There's definitely some uptravel on the table though. There's at least an inch before tires make contact and fender mods would get me another inch before I start having track bar problems.
 
4.5" would put it exactly 50/50 but I've got 4" of lift and just a hair under 5" of uptravel which I'm happy with.

There's definitely some uptravel on the table though. There's at least an inch before tires make contact and fender mods would get me another inch before I start having track bar problems.
For some reason that's not correct for MY rig.

My RS55128 has 5.7 up travel at ride height (2.9" lift). Which means that RS55255 would need around 5.3" lift to be close to 50/50.

Any ideas why this difference?

RS55255 numbers are the following (per Rancho website):
15,8" Compressed
26,53" Extended
10,73" Travel
 
Now we're getting somewhere. That's the main reason I abandoned Rancho, or other gas shocks. Their compressed lengths we longer and couldn't work with my setup. If they ae going to work, it simply means more lift or modification to the mounts.

The foam cell designed Skyjacker offered longer extended lengths and shorter compressed lengths. This essentially resulted in more travel for my shorter setup and tire combination. If I could order a custom shock, the front would be close to 13.5" compressed and 23.5" extended.

Edit: FWIW, this is exactly why you hear so much about cycling the suspension. You won't know what really works, or what you need, until you work through the kinks!
That's why I am looking for SkyJacker shocks as well!

Ordering a custom shock with the desired compressed and extended lengths would be awesome. But I guess not budget friendly? If possible at all
 
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For some reason that's not correct for MY rig.

My RS55128 has 5.7 up travel at ride height (2.9" lift). Which means that RS55255 would need around 5.3" lift to be close to 50/50.

Any ideas why this difference?

RS55255 numbers are the following (per Rancho website):
15,8" Compressed
26,53" Extended
10,73" Travel
Lots of little differences between parts and setup can add up to things easily working on one rig and not working easily on another.
 
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For some reason that's not correct for MY rig.

My RS55128 has 5.7 up travel at ride height (2.9" lift). Which means that RS55255 would need around 5.3" lift to be close to 50/50.

Any ideas why this difference?

RS55255 numbers are the following (per Rancho website):
15,8" Compressed
26,53" Extended
10,73" Travel

Couldn't tell ya. All I know is I have RS55255's with about 4-7/8 - 4-15/16" of shaft showing and my springs measure fairly dead on at 16".

I do have a late 80s HP30 front axle and never bothered to check if the lower shock mount and spring perch had the exact same relationship as the LP30 I took out.
 
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