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So I put off replacing the selector shaft seal in my 99 for as long as I could, actually I just haven't had the time. As many of you know, there is very limited space to work on this seal and most seem to do the little tap tap tap to slowly drive the new seal in. I designed an attachment for my...

I have been thinking lately, hearing all the buzzz about nuclear war, EMP attacks etc. For the sake of discussion, has anybody thought about what it would take to run a 4.0 with a carburetor in that "electronics let their smoke out scenario". I mean go beyond adapter plate carb to manifold, how...

I need to identify the make of my control arms, specifically the "flex joints","JJohny joints" etc. so I can rebuild them. I have searched high and low and have been unsuccessful at identifying them to date.

The upgrade is in strength, if your factory stuff is not worn at all then I would wait till you bent it or wore it out if you don't go wheeling. Sure it's not going to hurt anything to do the upgrade aside from your wallet and it's not that bad.

So here is the update. Almost two months now. This fix works very well! I have put probably close to 1500 miles on the TJ since the epoxy injection. I was out in the desert wheeling for a week while we went out for deer season plus a bunch of freeway miles to CA and back. There are no signs of...

Yep my black pipe band aide is just that, a band aide. Yes I have run the fix on my TJ for a while now with intent to go OTK and Aluminum possibly hydro assist. It's a get you through till you can fix. And yes it is stronger than stock but probably not much.

You are going to need right and left stock window regulators, any brackets, door knobs, mounting screws and bolts etc. You should research what the stock set up looks like installed and how it works. Most electric kits are pretty simple attaching to the bottom of the window and the inside of the...

Soooo for those that are on a Broke poor mans budget. Taking the stock tie rod off of the axle finding a piece of black pipe that will fit over the tie rod (after removing at least one ball joint) then weld it around the ends. Cut the pipe as long as possible to support the tie rod as far out...

Put the Tcase in N, jack up a wheel. Spin the wheel one revolution and count how many times the pinion goes around. Chalk mark one of the U Joint caps for easy counting. 3 turns= 3.08 almost 4 = 3.73 little over 4 = 4:10 4 1/2 = 4.56 No mess quick and not very dirty. Butttt pulling the cover...

I have looked all over the place for info on this repair without success, so here is my fix. The foam cover on my 99TJ steering wheel had broke loose near the top of the wheel from the inner frame. It would squish around twisting and moving on the inner frame as I drove. I picked up some 30 min...

Yes looks like aluminum too

Dana 30

I just wanted to share some learned info. I put an 8.8 in mine (excellent axle!) with a Rockhard gas tank skid and a Rough Stuff diff cover,,, they hit each other. Both awesome products but hit on compression. I am running a 3.5 inch lift with the same 33" tires as you run. On the tires, very...

LOL same here.

I second that! Replace it! Steel winch cables are inexpensive and that one is rough! Cheaper than a coffin or windshield!

OH heck yeah, straighten the fins first. The way I view that is I would rather "cause" it to leak in the shop vs finding out it was READY to leak far from civilization. FYI the JB will likely block that area of fins insignificantly reducing cooling. If the surface is clean it will be a hell of a...

JB it up and see if it goes forever. It's not likely going to explode dumping all of your fluid in an instant, IF it goes bad it will likely be a leak. Keep an eye on it like we do the rest of our Jeeps, if it starts leaking, replace it. That's my take, not necessarily what you should do LOL.

Well it's not leaking yet so that's positive. If the cost of the new cooler is not a problem then replace it, if the budget doesn't allow for it at this point you could clean it up well and cover the damaged area with JB Weld to basically reinforce any potential weak areas and likely extend its...

ASTJP2 Exactly what I was saying. The labor to R&R a transmission is definitely a cost factor. It is a lot of work even on a lift with air tools, trans jack etc, it just doesn't pop out LOL. (belly pan, drive shafts, transfer case, linkage, cooler lines, electrical connectors,shift cable, TV...

I would be surprised if trans rebuild kits were no longer available for a 32RH, It and its family line has been in service for a hell of a lot of years. Now finding a mechanic that has any experience with the 32RH could be the problem. A tendency for some repair shops is to add a little padding...