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"Slower than engine speed, higher than tire speed, roughly triples in frequency in 4LO" all sounds like it's either output-side of the transmission or input side of the transfer case. Input side of the transmission is always matched to engine speed, output side of transfer case is always...

Yep - even the best surge brakes are worse than electric brakes. The only part on that I might be a bit spoiled on is I've never towed with the specific combo of an aftermarket brake controller and a trailer with electric brakes. My WJ had an aftermarket controller from the original owner...

It's been going on longer than just a year, too. I bought a Cloyes set from OReilly in 2020 that had the exact same "crank sprocket too tight" problem. Meanwhile the Autozone set had a cam gear that wouldn't fit. Local Jeep dealer wouldn't even attempt to order one. Ended up mixing and...

Yup, can't argue with a solid copper license plate. My TJ still has three years to go.

Copper plates have zero restrictions other than 25 years old, and provide no benefits other than looking good. The emissions exemption requires classic/limited-use insurance, which doesn't require any specific plate type.

So far so good, but I also view it as "if it dies, it dies". If it ever does give up the ghost I'll redo it with a Viair actually intended to be mounted.

Thirded. They're reusable (within reason) and it makes future fluid changes much faster since you cut out the entire razor blade / wire wheel portion.

I have mine hard-mounted to the ABS tray but apparently I've never taken a photo of it. I bolted it down, I want to say I used at least one of the existing threaded holes in the tray. I also hardwired the power to a relay controlled by a switch in the cab, and cut most of the hose off to plumb...

To be fair, I discovered this a couple weeks ago when I hooked the battery back up on mine while the grille was still on the ground.

The ground at the front left of the engine bay is disconnected - factory setup is a ring terminal on a 10mm screw going into the back of the grille. That ground services the left front marker light, the washer motor, and the horn - I suspect with the ground disconnected, it manages to backfeed...

The closest thing I have to a complaint about the B&M is that between the TJ and the Ranger previous to that, the only manuals I've driven for the past 11+ years have been generously described as "sloppy". So I've developed a habit of pushing sideways as I'm shifting (i.e. to the right when...

Probably had a poor connection at the relay itself. The clutch needs a decent hit of power to actually pull in. I went chasing down a similar rabbit hole on my WJ. On that I'd confirmed 12V at the compressor with a digital meter, but I hadn't checked with a real load, and thus wasted time and...

The actual thread and gasketed area on the 51085 is the same as that, even though the overall can is much wider.

You can "clearance" the stock tank skid with a large hammer, no need to shorten the wheelbase.

My '02 has been parked outside in the Arizona sun for pretty much its whole life as far as I can tell. The paint is amazingly still sticking to the Jeep, but it looks absolutely awful on the hood, grille, and cowl. Easily the worst paint I've ever seen that isn't just flaking off in sheets...

They did sell the whole division to Continental, and for a while Continental did continue making the Gatorback-style belt - but that stopped years ago. Any belt you find with that cut-rib design is going to be very old stock at this point.

I don't think any of the factory LS configurations used a vacuum-connected fuel pressure regulator. Especially not any applications with a non-return fuel rail since the regulator would be well away from the engine, at or near the tank itself. But yes, 55psi is well within spec. A fuel leak at...

If the battery was at 9V with no load it's almost certainly smoked. It might come back from a charge but it's not long for this world either way.

I know you said they're new shafts but... any chance they're bent? Or that the tube is bent, for that matter.

OP described it as a "dual USB that happens to have a voltmeter" - it's certainly just reading the actual voltage it sees at the 12V socket, it's not communicating with the PCM in any way.