'02 Wrangler X Rust Nightmare: Looking for Advice

[doktormane]

I'm really sorry for you bud! Go after those bastards at the dealership with everything you can! In my opinion the frame is most likely compromise but if you have a garage at home and find a cheap frame you are totally able to swap it yourself and keep the costs down, definitely lower the what it would cost you to repair it.

 

[Leinhit]

While the frame under the skid plate is obviously terrible, the rest of the frame, at least from the pictures, looks OK. Even the torque boxes look alright. I have to disagree with the others who say that if the skid plate area is that bad, then the frame is probably just as bad everywhere else. That really isn't the case with TJs. Thanks to the lack of drain holes, water and salt and muck collected at the lowest points of the frame without anywhere to go. The rest of the frame is *usually* OK, though obviously not always.

What you showed here is definitely fixable with Safe T Caps. The rear control arm area is probably also rotting away, so you'll most likely need the full channel caps. But you should naturally check the rest of the frame first. The other part of the frame that occasionally rots out is at the rear corners. How does the frame look there?

Also check out Poconos metal craft.. Same as safe t cap but much cheaper.. just another option for u

 

[bruceco]

I went through the same senario.I never looked close enough.I ended up making my own safety caps and weld repairs.If I had needed a shop to do it ,unless of coarse it is reasonable I would have cut my losses and ran.Yours does not look that bad as compared to mine but get some feedback on the total actual repairs before you decide. Mine had a low mileage motor ,new rad and a few other new items otherwise I would have scrapped it and bought one from the southern states.It is a rabbithole for sure so the best of luck.

 

[atikovi]

Judge would look at what would have happened if seller did give a warranty, say 30 days or 1,000 miles which is typical on old cars. If they would have, the outcome would still be the same. There wouldn't be any warranty 8 months later.

 

[taylormade73]

Judge would look at what would have happened if seller did give a warranty, say 30 days or 1,000 miles which is typical on old cars. If they would have, the outcome would still be the same. There wouldn't be any warranty 8 months later.

Ok

 

[Ericict]

I just went thru this with our TJ. We replaced 70% of both frame rails (lowerside only) with Safetcaps. With them transporting it our cost was @ $2500 plus tax. I did center and aft section on both sides. Fronts were good and not needed. Frame repair is a good option for you. Go to the safetcap website and look at their dealers and find one in your area. I had to use my local Facebook group to find someone local who is doing these and he is doing 3-4 a month and has been for a couple of years. The parts were under $1000. Good Luck with it all.

 

[Yendra Built]

I've got a 05 frame thats Z'd off a totaled wrangler, probably ok from motor mounts back. Colorado frame, in better condition than the one I'm driving. Any rust belt Wrangler is subject to this problem. Hack job Chrysler engineers didn't even put drain holes in the frames, they hold one inch of water below the slots in the sides of the frame rails. This is critical area for for holding Mag-Chloride water mix around the skid plate bolts.

Everyone should drill drain holes in their frames and keep them open and clean. Without drain holes flushing the frame out at a car wash still keeps water in there until it evaporates.

Just went out and checked out the fully boxed frame on our 98 Landcruiser it has drain holes and coated on the inside, all nice and smooth no rust. My 04 Wrangler has plenty of rust in the frame not dangerous yet. I spent a lot of time while the engine was out with a drill and a 5/16 plastic coated cable with 10 inches of the end frazzled out breaking up loose rust scale.

Thanks a lot you Hack Job engineers!!!!!!!!!!

 

[madcanvis]

Wonder where this TJ ended up- OP, hope all is well.

There’s a lot of mention of SafTCaps.
I too have this problem. Both sides.
Seems as tho PO knew it was time and sold it privately to me. All rot was hidden by trans plate.

So I got my SafTCaps delivered.
Question for those in the know before I start cutting away:
Driverside frame rail has brake lines;
Is the fuel line there too?
Can these lines be safely moved out of the way for the de-rust, cutting, and welding or MUST they be removed?

TIA

 

[PJOJeep]

Wonder where this TJ ended up- OP, hope all is well.

There’s a lot of mention of SafTCaps.
I too have this problem. Both sides.
Seems as tho PO knew it was time and sold it privately to me. All rot was hidden by trans plate.

So I got my SafTCaps delivered.
Question for those in the know before I start cutting away:
Driverside frame rail has brake lines;
Is the fuel line there too?
Can these lines be safely moved out of the way for the de-rust, cutting, and welding or MUST they be removed?

TIA

I just removed all 3 lines along with the fuel tank. The fuel tank skid plate/mounting straps were rusted and with 215,000 miles, I took the opportunity to replace the pump too. I did the work in my attached garage, so I didn’t want to risk welding around the gas tank. I also pulled the exhaust system on the passengers side to have better access. It was hard enough welding the insides while lying on the floor. I was told by the manufacturer (I used Pocono Metals caps) that they just sleeve the lines with a piece of hose. Basically, you have a brake line, fuel line, and fuel tank return line on that frame rail.

 

[Yendra Built]

Your fuel pump control module wiring is there also, that disconnects near the rear axle. The fuel lines are usually easy to disconnect with the tool for it.