05' JMT's Twin Teenager's Rubicon Build

Attention to detail, mechanically inclined, good at math, problem solving skills... if he likes physics, K definitely sounds like mechanical engineer material! It's awesome that they're getting hands-on mechanical experience. Hands-on experience and a real-world understanding of how things work help make sense of things in college, where you plunge into the theoretical side of things. If he does end up going into engineering when he goes to college, I highly recommend you have him look into the SAE Collegiate Design Series.
I'm in school for mechanical engineering now, and I definitely agree about SAE. I'm a member of my school's (UConn) Formula SAE team, and its so great. I've learned so much from it, some I can even translate over to jeep work as well. It takes a little bit of the classroom learning and makes it much more hands on and exciting, and you get to see how the real world of engineering works when working with sponsor companies to get parts made. Also, a lot of the sponsor companies like to hire people right off the team for internships
 
A kind forum member passed on a Warn fairlead hawse this morning and I told him, "Dude, you should get on the forum and start making updates to the thread and asking questions, learning stuff." He has mentioned doing it before, but he hasn't taken the plunge! He would get a lot of good ideas from you guys. Right now he's limited to me, which is unfortunately a severe limitation.
@JMT , I have been down for the count the last 8 days but will get that fairlead in the mail by week's end...
 
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These are the backing plates for the sliders. I still don’t know who made them, but they’re not homemade. The bolts were rusted in the threads and a few I couldn’t break free. I could have just replaced them but steel is expensive. Moving forward. The sliders will be back from sandblasting tomorrow and we’ll get those painted up for re-install soon.

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OEM bolts are so valuable it’s worth the time to try to salvage them!
 
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Day 19: Rock sliders are back from the sandblaster. My neighbor is the one who took them to a guy to have it done. K is going to mow another neighbors lawn who the neighbor was supposed to mow, so that is how he’s paying him. I’m going to skip the guy some cash too. It saved us a lot of heartache.

I don’t know who made these sliders, and I haven’t seen a current slider with these bends. I’ll post better pics tomorrow and we’ll remove any flash rust, sand them a bit smoother and paint them. Should look awesome given the previous condition!

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Day 20: Got after the Rock Sliders this morning. These had obviously seen salt, and we read that after sandblasting you want to power wash them to get any contaminants out that may have been forced into the surface. After washing we dried them and used a heat gun to get the rest of the moisture. After sandblasting the surface is pretty rough so we used the flap disk to smooth it out. Then we went over it all with an orbital sander and 220grit. Cleaned it all with Acetone. The spots that still had rust we used Rust converter and the rest we self-etch primed. These are ready for topcoat. We may try to find a 1K clear satin to give extra protection to the topcoat, especially where we step into the Jeep. If anyone knows who made these sliders, let us know.

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They left that much rust after sandblasting?
Yeah, and you probably can’t see the worst of it. But I tried to break more chunks off and couldn’t. On some edges I used a flap disc and it’s a bit better.
 
Today was the first “big” work day on the Rubicon. We succeeded in getting the rear bumper off and in the process breaking two to three bolts, the only concerning one being inside the rear stock body mount. I worked hard all morning trying to kill the rust in the rear driver wheel well while dad worked on getting the driver side torque box mostly rust free. We suffered getting pretty discouraged looking at all the rusted out parts of the undercarriage, but we both helped each other mentally steel ourselves and push on. The end result was actually quite encouraging 🙂View attachment 321330View attachment 321331View attachment 321332View attachment 321334We then proceeded to paint the rear crossmember and prepare the rear for the new hinges. Hopefully that will help the gate from not drooping so much!View attachment 321335

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Do you have hinges? I can see if still have stock took off when I put on MorRyde. Thinking they might even be color matched if can find them.
 
Do you have hinges? I can see if still have stock took off when I put on MorRyde. Thinking they might even be color matched if can find them.
Thank you so much for the offer. The stock ones had so much play they are already in the trash can. Tailgate sag was bad and rear hardtop glass would not stay closed. 🤣 We bought some made by Hooke Off-Road for $45 on EBay. They only opened about 70*, but I shaved off about 3/16” and now they open 90+*.
 
Thank you so much for the offer. The stock ones had so much play they are already in the trash can. Tailgate sag was bad and rear hardtop glass would not stay closed. 🤣 We bought some made by Hooke Off-Road for $45 on EBay. They only opened about 70*, but I shaved off about 3/16” and now they open 90+*.
I saw that shortly after I replied. If I was ready for high lines would offer you heck of deal on front fenders but high lines are after regear and I’ve been collecting regear parts for the past year so don’t think K would want to wait that long LOL
 
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I saw that shortly after I replied. If I was ready for high lines would offer you heck of deal on front fenders but high lines are after regear and I’ve been collecting regear parts for the past year so don’t think K would want to wait that long LOL
I think I’ve looked at your For Sale post for those HiLines about 10 times. I think I’ll go look again.