05' JMT's Twin Teenager's Rubicon Build

TJR Phase 2: Suspension (33’s on 4” lift)

Most of the big parts have arrived. The goal is to knock this out over the Christmas break. Rancho 5000X 11” travel front and 10” rear shocks are painted and clear coat. Look great!

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RockJock 4” coils!
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Pile of other parts.

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We still have to remove the rear adjustable TB from the white Jeep. Install a relocation bracket on it with a stock TB. Then we will have the adjustable TB for the TJR. Not shown is the ZJ tie rod, some soft shackles the twins made a couple days ago, bumpstops, dorman extended brake lines, various odds and ends, paint to clean up the axles. We’ll be replacing all hardware. This could be a PITA, but I’m just going to cut every bolt off. I’m most concerned about the rear upper shock mounts.
 
TJR Phase 2: Suspension (33’s on 4” lift)

Most of the big parts have arrived. The goal is to knock this out over the Christmas break. Rancho 5000X 11” travel front and 10” rear shocks are painted and clear coat. Look great!

View attachment 383167
RockJock 4” coils!
View attachment 383168
Pile of other parts.

View attachment 383169
We still have to remove the rear adjustable TB from the white Jeep. Install a relocation bracket on it with a stock TB. Then we will have the adjustable TB for the TJR. Not shown is the ZJ tie rod, some soft shackles the twins made a couple days ago, bumpstops, dorman extended brake lines, various odds and ends, paint to clean up the axles. We’ll be replacing all hardware. This could be a PITA, but I’m just going to cut every bolt off. I’m most concerned about the rear upper shock mounts.

Those MC arms are setting a record for the amount of jeeps installed on lol.
 
What’s the solution if you end up having to destroy the rear upper shock mount on that crossmember?
 
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Well it’ll give you a chance to make lemonade if they break, if it already has a BL you could do the raised tank skid mod which would also give you better access to do the upper spring perch mod.

[URL][URL]https://wranglertjforum.c...olved-in-lifting-the-gas-tank-one-inch.23059/[/URL][/URL]

[URL][URL]https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/daily-driver-go-where-i-want-to-build.9410/page-9[/URL][/URL]

I’ve done the raised gas tank skid twice. This build does not have a BL. It’s a straight 4” SL + 33’s. After reading the thread on resolving the upper rear shock issue, we’ll opt for the bar pin eliminator solution. The reason is the rust. I’ve already broke the rear passenger body mount bolt. It’s going to be a project in itself to fix. The other 5 rear most body mounts are all questionable.
 
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I’ve done the raised gas tank skid twice. This build does not have a BL. It’s a straight 4” SL + 33’s. After reading the thread on resolving the upper rear shock issue, we’ll opt for the bar pin eliminator solution. The reason is the rust. I’ve already broke the rear passenger body mount bolt. It’s going to be a project in itself to fix. The other 5 rear most body mounts are all questionable.

Bar pin eliminator doesn't really "fix" your problem. I have one, to shift my shocks travel a bit and you can't get the shock bolt out without pulling the screws that hold the BPE to the cross member. I'm using one from Rough Country though, so maybe a different brand has a better design
 
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Bar pin eliminator doesn't really "fix" your problem. I have one, to shift my shocks travel a bit and you can't get the shock bolt out without pulling the screws that hold the BPE to the cross member. I'm using one from Rough Country though, so maybe a different brand has a better design

Option A. I’ve got a set of BPE’s in my pile of parts. They came from @Wildman. I noticed they are the same width as the stock holes, but they come with a bolt and nut. I can look and see if I can drill holes in another orientation and mount the BPE and shock.

Option B. Drill two holes in another orientation and use nutserts. I need to get a better look. The factory hole in the crossmember that accommodates the end of the shock may not permit mounting in any other orientation than 90* turned. At least the axles will be totally removed from under the rig while we do this. I like option B, just not sure there’s enough material to set a nutsert.
706A8307-8E1F-4E63-B12D-56506974B675.jpeg
 
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Kaleb removed the adjustable rear TB from the White Sport. I had a rear TB relocation bracket with hardware in the parts bin. We installed it on the White Sport with a stock bar and that freed up the adjustable rear TB to go on his Patriot Blue TJR. This was needed bc the Blue TJR will have ~4.25” of SL. It worked for the White Sport because it only has 2.5”SL. All he needed then was an angled rear TB relocation bracket. He ordered the JKS through Zone Off-road. The angle is different than the Currie. I’m skeptical. If it doesn’t work, and we’re in a bind, I’ll weld some pieces together and make one.
 
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Kaleb removed the adjustable rear TB from the White Sport. I had a rear TB relocation bracket with hardware in the parts bin. We installed it on the White Sport with a stock bar and that freed up the adjustable rear TB to go on his Patriot Blue TJR. This was needed bc the Blue TJR will have ~4.25” of SL. It worked for the White Sport because it only has 2.5”SL. All he needed then was an angled rear TB relocation bracket. He ordered the JKS through Zone Off-road. The angle is different than the Currie. I’m skeptical. If it doesn’t work, and we’re in a bind, I’ll weld some pieces together and make one.

I tried a JKS bracket and it didn't fit correctly. That was resolved with a Currie bracket.
 
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I had to modify my JKS bracket quite a bit too. Now, I’m running something completely custom that I made up out of two different brackets so I could pull the JKS bar forward enough to clear the tank skid mounting flange.
 
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Option A. I’ve got a set of BPE’s in my pile of parts. They came from @Wildman. I noticed they are the same width as the stock holes, but they come with a bolt and nut. I can look and see if I can drill holes in another orientation and mount the BPE and shock.

Option B. Drill two holes in another orientation and use nutserts. I need to get a better look. The factory hole in the crossmember that accommodates the end of the shock may not permit mounting in any other orientation than 90* turned. At least the axles will be totally removed from under the rig while we do this. I like option B, just not sure there’s enough material to set a nutsert.
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Those bar pin eliminators are for the front shocks not the rear. They are JKS and you can get rear ones from them also. I never needed rear ones because I'd gone to out-board shocks at this point.
 
Those bar pin eliminators are for the front shocks not the rear. They are JKS and you can get rear ones from them also. I never needed rear ones because I'd gone to out-board shocks at this point.

Yeah, I know. I still thought I might be able to make them work. Worth a shot IF I don’t go the Nutsert route. I really think a Nutsert would be much easier. Advice, counsel?
 
I had to modify my JKS bracket quite a bit too. Now, I’m running something completely custom that I made up out of two different brackets so I could pull the JKS bar forward enough to clear the tank skid mounting flange.

Your custom bracket was the first thing that came to mind when I unpacked the JKS bracket. It barely has an angle compared to the regular relocation bracket. yet it lists for 4-4.5” lift. Kinda dumb. I’m thinking of sending it back and getting the Currie. I’m running out of time since all this needs to start Dec 26.
 
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Yeah, I know. I still thought I might be able to make them work. Worth a shot IF I don’t go the Nutsert route. I really think a Nutsert would be much easier. Advice, counsel?

Here's what the rears look like. Seems the biggest difference is that bolt holes are smaller for the bolts to fit the stock shock mount threads.

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And they have the roll pins on them that the front doesn't have.
 
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