05' JMT's Twin Teenager's Rubicon Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
OP
Hmmm....I will go through my Jeep parts pile again, but I don't remember it being there. Watch me be wrong...I do get surprised sometimes by what is up there. Thanks for looking around.
OP
Well, you must have an admirable pinion angle with 2.5" lift + TT, so maybe I'm crazy and should not worry about it. This one will be on ~4.25" lift, no tuck, and a 16" DC rear shaft. Due to the short shaft I'm worried about how much I'll have to bring the pinion up to point it right at the TCase output. I'm a bit in the dark here because my rig is 4.25" SL, Savvy Tuck, a 19" shaft, and the Currie bracket and I still had interference between the TB and the gas tank crossmember.
Last edited:
it worked on mine at that lift too...when I went bigger, it made all kinds of a mess back there.
You can stop looking, I found it and it’s yours if you want it. I can get it in the mail Monday if you do.
my cv driveshaft (measured at center of u-joints) is 14.5”. Pinion is ~16*. Have a savvy gts.
The jeep thanks you for getting the inside treatment after some nights in the neg temps, a full dethaw in the heated garage, tire air pressure check, and hook up to the battery tender.
OP
OP
The rear is apart. We’ve been at it for about 10 hours. We did get the driver side shock to come out of the crossmember. The passenger side wouldn’t come. This is where we are with that. The body mounts are a mess, so removing them may not solve the problem of getting to the back side. I’m thinking of drilling them out and installing a nutsert. I can weld that one bit of crossmember back together. Long day. I’d like to be smoking my new pipe, but this is a father son thing and there’s no time.
OP
@DrDmoney, the bracket came in Dec 24th. We were both excited bc it meant we could get to work on the rig this week. He’s back to school Jan 4, so this week is it. I hope we can pull this off. Thanks for saving us at the last second.
OP
OP
We win with this rear shock bolt. Dremel with 1.5” cutting disk, hammer, screwdriver and punch. Thomas boys 1, Jeep 0. Round 2 underway.
Last edited:
OP
Thomas boys 2, Jeep 0. Rear upper shock bolts out. I’m going to slip two 10.9 M8x1.25 25mm with lock washers into the holes and put a nut on by hand, short blast with the impact and torque to spec, if we ever get that far!
Last edited:
OP
Without sandblasting a rusty axle, I think you just do what you can do. There is still plenty of steel. I cut a notch to clearance the shock body. If we don’t need it it’s a weight loss. If we do need it it’s there, and so much easier to do cleanly with the axle off. Temps are higher today. We need to get the front axle off. Then paint, take tomorrow off, put it all together Thursday or Friday. Plan at least.
OP
So much for zinc plating holding off rust. OME TB relocation bracket. 
OP
Painting an axle. They look gorgeous till the first time you hit a trail! This one will be getting Gloss Black Engine Enamel. What’s in it is Rust Converter.
Last edited:
Think about the future and what you having going on there. Do you really think you need 10.8 bolts? That’s roughly equivalent to grade 8 and a real PITA to drill if you ever need to. Go 8.8 and don’t lose any sleep over it.
FWIW, I used 3/8-16 for my shock bolts. Metric isn’t sold by the pound around here
OP
I wasn’t being picky, 10.9 was all Ace had in a flanged M8x1.25. Your right all the way though! I was trying to stay with the stock size bc the drivers side came out and reusing those welded in nuts which are metric. I’m running a tap through them to clean them out best I can. Rust is a bear! I got 3/8-16 on my mind now. I can always switch them up!
EDIT: really thinking about swapping to something grade 5. I have a few days to find them before we put this thing back together. Rust sucks!
Last edited:
