plz elaborate on your thinking Brian83.
we'd require the same backspace as anyone else for a similar sized wheel, the bead-lock will not change the interior fit. it will force the outer bead to sit further out but this will still be within the wheels tread width.
if anything, i think those donor rims have a fairly large face right below the rim. and that could hinder the depth he's able to set the ring. he'll have to check that.
The reason there are so many different versions of why to do it a certain way is they all work. What is being overlooked is the clamping force of the ring and the butyl liner of the tire. The force will deform the tire into any imperfections, raised or lowered areas and create the air tight seal.i run robotic welders at work i'm gonna program and run mine on 1 of them. so my weld should be a beautiful thing.
i'm also not confident in any protrusion of the rims edge and believe a nice flat would give a better seal.
pulling them up seems like it leaves the edge of the ring to be welded to the lip of the rim, not the strongest connection, i think we could have.
so i'm also leaning toward a flush fit. but this is not something easily undone or changed once it's burned so i had to ask.
The reason there are so many different versions of why to do it a certain way is they all work. What is being overlooked is the clamping force of the ring and the butyl liner of the tire. The force will deform the tire into any imperfections, raised or lowered areas and create the air tight seal.
I would not weld the nuts to the inside of the ring. If you have a bolt back out and snap it off on a rock which tears up the threads in the nut, you are drilling and tapping it larger or trying to figure out how to sneak a cut off disc in there and get the nut cut loose.
I would just use nuts or press in threaded inserts.
That and you couldn't give me a bead lock without a bead centering ring. If someone makes a weld on ring with a centering ring, use those. Trying to center the bead by how you tighten the lock ring down is a real pain in the ass. Without the bead centered, whatever chance you had of a smooth running tire is out the window.
You'd have to machine the UHMW around the perimeter and drill the matching holes to the bolts before milling out the center. Or at least that is how I would do it. Good stuff for lots of things but it moves around a bunch in thinner cross sections.yah it dawned on me about 20mins after i posted, i ruin just 1 nut and it'll be a major headache to replace and the wheel will probably leak until it's fixed correctly. so i doubt i'll go that route.
i have access to UHMW, i was thinking of making rings from this that would act as my anti cone ring. and if i could mount it over the bolts i'd then have a guide or centering ring to hold that tire uniformly around that circle.
i may have to play with the thickness of the material to ensure i get a solid clamp but it was an idea i've been tossin around in my head.
I'm not opposed to the UHMW at all. I just wanted you to be aware of the machining challenges with something that needs to center the tire bead. If and that's a big if, I were to attempt DIY bead locks, I'd look at the UHMW.i get yah.
i'm stuck at a 17" wheel for the 1 ton JK steering components, but have no desire to use an E class tire.
the MTR is a C in 35x17x12.5 and i think Nitto has 1, choices are slim. but C is it, no D's, no E's.
i have other options. i could laser another steel ring to use as my anti-cone/centering device. i could roll and weld something on there. but the UHMW is so light and easy to work, it seems like a possible option. i would do some fit test's to determine what might be the proper thickness to be able to clamp well and reach the torque value required.
i like that thought of securing the device between the clamp bolts, and i'll steal that.
my rig is destined for a trailer. i cannot risk having to leave it in the field (2hrs away) if i'm unable to drive it home, so she'll get towed out to ensure i can get her home no matter what occurs. this is what even made the idea of the bead-locks viable to me, no highway, not a huge balancing issue for low speed off road use. and 1 less bead to bust for field fixes.
i do appreciate you taking your time to lay out a proper explanation. thanx again.