make sure you have accounted for spacing of everything. Things can get pretty tight on a stock washer tank...but it will work.
I'm part of the three switch club now!
make sure you have accounted for spacing of everything. Things can get pretty tight on a stock washer tank...but it will work.
Congratulations! Wait...are those heated seat switches I see there? Fancy
I forgot to give a final update on my project. It wasn't a ground issue after all. The culprit was in the C2 Instrument Panel Connector. I had not fully seated one of the pins (terminal 7). Everything has been fully functional for several months now.
Just confirming... Do I have to run a wire from C2 I/P connector terminal 7 to C170? I've been working on this for three days and I'd much rather pull an engine...LOL...
Yes, that wire would be in your donor harness and you just need to move it over to your existing harness. When you are connecting it at the C170 connector (Pin 2), there will probably be a blue plastic retainer holding all the wires in place and you'll need to remove it before you can insert the pin from the new wire. I had trouble getting the blue retainer back in place, so I left it off.....hopefully you'll be able to get yours back on properly.
My jeep is an 01, so not sure if they're different on other years.
My jeep is an 01, so not sure if they're different on other years.
Here you go....note, there is a Part 1 and Part 2.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...r-tj-for-a-hardtop-part-1-dash-harness.15350/
I really appreciate all the help. I ordered the switches from ebay thinking I could wire them in where they go. Not so much. I can't find any schematics on how to wire them into my existing harness. I guess I need to shop around for a complete harness with the switches for my 01. Thanks again for all your help.
That's awesome
That's awesome! I appreciate the thanks and so glad you got it.
To test defogger you can use a multimeter on the inside of the back window. Test it with DC 12v from one connection to the other. Lots of videos show how to do it. If you get 12v you are golden. I read in the FSM that it has a timer so it will go out after a certain time.
with the cables connected to the glass I get about 9.6VDC, with the glass disconnected and reading the plugs i get 12.2V Is that normal? I assume some resistance in the glass is causing the drop.
It seems to me that your Jeep was not wired for a hardtop from the factory, but a PO did add the MOPAR hardtop harness kit (no longer available). I assume that you also have the rear wiper switch and double pump washer bottle? I recall that the MOPAR harness used an inline fuse somewhere and that may be why you have nothing in slot 15 on your fuse box. Question about your defroster....have you tested to see if you are getting 12v at the connection points on the defroster grid (attach multimeter leads to the two connections)? If you are not, check the connections in Step 21 of the MOPAR harness instructions. The timer is wired through the C2 connector behind the instrument cluster. Specifically check the Light Blue/White Wire. Hope this helps a little.
Edit: Does the defrost switch illuminate when you turn on the lights? And it is just the "power" light that doesn't come on when you activate the switch? Lastly, do the rear wiper and washer work?
It seems to me that your Jeep was not wired for a hardtop from the factory, but a PO did add the MOPAR hardtop harness kit (no longer available). I assume that you also have the rear wiper switch and double pump washer bottle?
Yes, rear wiper, rocker switch and double pump washer bottle are present.
I recall that the MOPAR harness used an inline fuse somewhere and that may be why you have nothing in slot 15 on your fuse box.
Checking the factory hardtop wiring installation instructions I see no inline fuse, nor do I see one tracing the DB/RD power lead from fuse #6. I did pull the instrument cluster to verify all wiring changes to the connectors were made, and they were installed, post factory, as they should be.
Question about your defroster....have you tested to see if you are getting 12v at the connection points on the defroster grid (attach multimeter leads to the two connections)? If you are not, check the connections in Step 21 of the MOPAR harness instructions. The timer is wired through the C2 connector behind the instrument cluster. Specifically check the Light Blue/White Wire. Hope this helps a little.
Checked and initially had no voltage, but I noticed one connector was corroded, Once I cleaned the connector I had voltage available. I also noticed that several of the grid lines have opens, so less than a quarter of the lines actually pass any current. (I’ll get a repair kit for the open lines.)
I still don’t have a light indicating that the EBL is energized . . . but it could be the LED is reversed. I swapped it a couple of times, but not since I actually have voltage available at the grid. I’ll pull the switch again when I get the grid repair kit to see if the LED is reversed.
Edit: Does the defrost switch illuminate when you turn on the lights? And it is just the "power" light that doesn't come on when you activate the switch? Lastly, do the rear wiper and washer work?
Yes, yes and yes.
This would be much easier if the K6859185 was more detailed than a cartoon. Bouncing between that and the 8W-48 series is a PITA. LOL
Thanks for the help!