2003-2006 Hardtop Wiring

make sure you have accounted for spacing of everything. Things can get pretty tight on a stock washer tank...but it will work.

I'm part of the three switch club now!

IMG_0665.jpeg
 
  • Love
Reactions: Scoutmapper
I forgot to give a final update on my project. It wasn't a ground issue after all. The culprit was in the C2 Instrument Panel Connector. I had not fully seated one of the pins (terminal 7). Everything has been fully functional for several months now.

Just confirming... Do I have to run a wire from C2 I/P connector terminal 7 to C170? I've been working on this for three days and I'd much rather pull an engine...LOL...
 
Just confirming... Do I have to run a wire from C2 I/P connector terminal 7 to C170? I've been working on this for three days and I'd much rather pull an engine...LOL...

Yes, that wire would be in your donor harness and you just need to move it over to your existing harness. When you are connecting it at the C170 connector (Pin 2), there will probably be a blue plastic retainer holding all the wires in place and you'll need to remove it before you can insert the pin from the new wire. I had trouble getting the blue retainer back in place, so I left it off.....hopefully you'll be able to get yours back on properly.
 
Yes, that wire would be in your donor harness and you just need to move it over to your existing harness. When you are connecting it at the C170 connector (Pin 2), there will probably be a blue plastic retainer holding all the wires in place and you'll need to remove it before you can insert the pin from the new wire. I had trouble getting the blue retainer back in place, so I left it off.....hopefully you'll be able to get yours back on properly.

Does the C170 connector look like this?

20221002_181512.jpg


20221002_181500.jpg
 
My jeep is an 01, so not sure if they're different on other years.

You should not be using the process in this thread. It only applies to 2003-2006 TJ's. There is a different thread in the How To section that you should use. It's an entirely different process. I'll post the link shortly.
 
I really appreciate all the help. I ordered the switches from ebay thinking I could wire them in where they go. Not so much. I can't find any schematics on how to wire them into my existing harness. I guess I need to shop around for a complete harness with the switches for my 01. Thanks again for all your help.

Happy to help. This place is a good source for the harnesses you'll need.

http://briskeymountain4wd.com/
 
That's awesome

That's awesome! I appreciate the thanks and so glad you got it.
To test defogger you can use a multimeter on the inside of the back window. Test it with DC 12v from one connection to the other. Lots of videos show how to do it. If you get 12v you are golden. I read in the FSM that it has a timer so it will go out after a certain time.

with the cables connected to the glass I get about 9.6VDC, with the glass disconnected and reading the plugs i get 12.2V Is that normal? I assume some resistance in the glass is causing the drop.
 
with the cables connected to the glass I get about 9.6VDC, with the glass disconnected and reading the plugs i get 12.2V Is that normal? I assume some resistance in the glass is causing the drop.

You should be getting 12v with the plugs attached. Not sure what would cause yours to be less. Could it be caused by damage somewhere in the defrost grid on the window?
 
I looked at the grid and it looks all in tact. I will disconnect the plugs tomorrow and sand down the tabs to see if I get a better connection. Thanks for the input.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rcroane
Looking for some HBL help. I flew up to Cleveland two years ago to purchase my ’04 TJ Rubicon. I drove it back to Alabama with the hardtop installed, but the dealer flaked on me and never shipped the factory soft top. I ended up buying a Bestop.

I was recently doing the LED interior light modification and could not get the Rear Window Defogger rocker amber energized light to come on. I originally assumed it was an LED issue, but after multiple attempts to get the light to come on, I began to suspect another problem. After looking at the FSM I checked the fuse block behind the glove box (see pic) and discovered not only no fuse in #15 (Fused Rear Window Defogger Relay Output), but also no apparent pins in slot 15. I also noticed a blue/red wire tapped from slot #6 [20A Fused Ignition Switch Output (Run)].

After pulling the build sheet I did not see the terms hard top, rear defogger or similar. What I did see was “Black Easy Folding Soft Top.”

A little more research and I found instructions for post factory hardtop wiring harness installation.

https://wranglertjforum.com/attachments/2003-06-wrangler-hartop-wiring-kit-installation-pdf.281853/

Steps 28 – 31 show prepping and inserting the power tap into the fuse slot #6. Note that the hard top is fully wired, with the wiring appearing factory, including rear wiper and defroster, and washer fluid pump dispenser tubing.


I’ve provided the above to ask the following:

Was this originally a factory soft top only Jeep?


Assuming the above to be correct, was the hardtop wiring harness added post purchase, possibly a dealer installed option? (This appears to obviously be the case, but any additional insights would be welcomed.)

Assuming the above to be correct, why would the Mopar harness NOT address Fuse #15 which would utilize the 10 minute timer depicted in FSM 8W 48-2 and 3?

Any suggestions on easiest route to enable functionality of the timer?

TIA

IMG_20221221_145541915.jpg
 
My understanding is that if your Jeep came with a soft top from the factory, you only have SOME of the wiring needed (hence the guide you linked). I recently followed the guide to get my OEM hard top wired up. Mine did not come with a hard top from the factory, no rocker switches or dual washer tank. I had to buy everything outlined in the guide above.
 
It seems to me that your Jeep was not wired for a hardtop from the factory, but a PO did add the MOPAR hardtop harness kit (no longer available). I assume that you also have the rear wiper switch and double pump washer bottle? I recall that the MOPAR harness used an inline fuse somewhere and that may be why you have nothing in slot 15 on your fuse box. Question about your defroster....have you tested to see if you are getting 12v at the connection points on the defroster grid (attach multimeter leads to the two connections)? If you are not, check the connections in Step 21 of the MOPAR harness instructions. The timer is wired through the C2 connector behind the instrument cluster. Specifically check the Light Blue/White Wire. Hope this helps a little.

Edit: Does the defrost switch illuminate when you turn on the lights? And it is just the "power" light that doesn't come on when you activate the switch? Lastly, do the rear wiper and washer work?
 
Last edited:
It seems to me that your Jeep was not wired for a hardtop from the factory, but a PO did add the MOPAR hardtop harness kit (no longer available). I assume that you also have the rear wiper switch and double pump washer bottle? I recall that the MOPAR harness used an inline fuse somewhere and that may be why you have nothing in slot 15 on your fuse box. Question about your defroster....have you tested to see if you are getting 12v at the connection points on the defroster grid (attach multimeter leads to the two connections)? If you are not, check the connections in Step 21 of the MOPAR harness instructions. The timer is wired through the C2 connector behind the instrument cluster. Specifically check the Light Blue/White Wire. Hope this helps a little.

Edit: Does the defrost switch illuminate when you turn on the lights? And it is just the "power" light that doesn't come on when you activate the switch? Lastly, do the rear wiper and washer work?

It seems to me that your Jeep was not wired for a hardtop from the factory, but a PO did add the MOPAR hardtop harness kit (no longer available). I assume that you also have the rear wiper switch and double pump washer bottle?

Yes, rear wiper, rocker switch and double pump washer bottle are present.


I recall that the MOPAR harness used an inline fuse somewhere and that may be why you have nothing in slot 15 on your fuse box.


Checking the factory hardtop wiring installation instructions I see no inline fuse, nor do I see one tracing the DB/RD power lead from fuse #6. I did pull the instrument cluster to verify all wiring changes to the connectors were made, and they were installed, post factory, as they should be.


Question about your defroster....have you tested to see if you are getting 12v at the connection points on the defroster grid (attach multimeter leads to the two connections)? If you are not, check the connections in Step 21 of the MOPAR harness instructions. The timer is wired through the C2 connector behind the instrument cluster. Specifically check the Light Blue/White Wire. Hope this helps a little.


Checked and initially had no voltage, but I noticed one connector was corroded, Once I cleaned the connector I had voltage available. I also noticed that several of the grid lines have opens, so less than a quarter of the lines actually pass any current. (I’ll get a repair kit for the open lines.)

I still don’t have a light indicating that the EBL is energized . . . but it could be the LED is reversed. I swapped it a couple of times, but not since I actually have voltage available at the grid. I’ll pull the switch again when I get the grid repair kit to see if the LED is reversed.



Edit: Does the defrost switch illuminate when you turn on the lights? And it is just the "power" light that doesn't come on when you activate the switch? Lastly, do the rear wiper and washer work?

Yes, yes and yes.

This would be much easier if the K6859185 was more detailed than a cartoon. Bouncing between that and the 8W-48 series is a PITA. LOL

Thanks for the help!
 
It seems to me that your Jeep was not wired for a hardtop from the factory, but a PO did add the MOPAR hardtop harness kit (no longer available). I assume that you also have the rear wiper switch and double pump washer bottle?

Yes, rear wiper, rocker switch and double pump washer bottle are present.


I recall that the MOPAR harness used an inline fuse somewhere and that may be why you have nothing in slot 15 on your fuse box.


Checking the factory hardtop wiring installation instructions I see no inline fuse, nor do I see one tracing the DB/RD power lead from fuse #6. I did pull the instrument cluster to verify all wiring changes to the connectors were made, and they were installed, post factory, as they should be.


Question about your defroster....have you tested to see if you are getting 12v at the connection points on the defroster grid (attach multimeter leads to the two connections)? If you are not, check the connections in Step 21 of the MOPAR harness instructions. The timer is wired through the C2 connector behind the instrument cluster. Specifically check the Light Blue/White Wire. Hope this helps a little.


Checked and initially had no voltage, but I noticed one connector was corroded, Once I cleaned the connector I had voltage available. I also noticed that several of the grid lines have opens, so less than a quarter of the lines actually pass any current. (I’ll get a repair kit for the open lines.)

I still don’t have a light indicating that the EBL is energized . . . but it could be the LED is reversed. I swapped it a couple of times, but not since I actually have voltage available at the grid. I’ll pull the switch again when I get the grid repair kit to see if the LED is reversed.



Edit: Does the defrost switch illuminate when you turn on the lights? And it is just the "power" light that doesn't come on when you activate the switch? Lastly, do the rear wiper and washer work?

Yes, yes and yes.

This would be much easier if the K6859185 was more detailed than a cartoon. Bouncing between that and the 8W-48 series is a PITA. LOL

Thanks for the help!

I swear I saw somewhere that the kit has an inline fuse. I dig around to see if I can find the reference.