Tank is installed with the new parts from axis. That’s where I’m stuck this time trying to figure the wiring out. It’s all I have left for the install.
2005 LJR R2.8 build
- Thread starter 1945GPW
- Start date
I’ve got the j1939 plug In the firewall. So just need to run power to the computer key and fuel tank
I was crazed at your point to hear my engine fire up in my engine bay. I wouldn't mess with your gauges yet and get the starting wiring correct first. Gauges will be another major headache you can deal with once you're on the road was my viewpoint.
You don't need power to the fuel tank. It's just a resistance reading. At one point when I was thinking custom dash/gauge cluster I was thinking of just having a read-out of resistance for the fuel level, but then decided to be less idiotic.
You can guess at the level of fuel you have and use a GPS or something for speed and use the Murphy gauge for your tach. Maybe toggle to temp once you get used to shift points.
Whitetrash
TJ Enthusiast
I’m still running the pcm.
For the starting wires did you splice into the pcm or into the key.
I still have to wonterize the RV before we start dipping into freezing temps. It’s already in the 30s at night here
Winter is too close now and the army is sending me to the field for a month. Yah. So it will be full on winter when I get back.
For the starting wires did you splice into the pcm or into the key.
I still have to wonterize the RV before we start dipping into freezing temps. It’s already in the 30s at night here
Winter is too close now and the army is sending me to the field for a month. Yah. So it will be full on winter when I get back.
I spliced into the wiring right off the key switch on the steering column. Btw mine was a Dark Blue wire. Check your schematic, the wire must have 12V during starting and running. That's very key. I wired mine to running for the first 15+ tries. Of course it was probably 30 tries to figure out why it wasn't cranking the starter.
I should probably put the exhaust on before I do that. Haven’t gotten the piece that mates from the DOC to the banks system yet. Lol. Neighbors might find that to be a bit loud
It's really not too loud. I still haven't ran an exhaust on mine.
I can listen to stuff on my cell phone with the doors off in my garage at idle or revved up to 2,500 RPMs. I can't hear my phone with doors off at 60 mph.
So the wife gave me the deadline of the 30th to get this thing running.
I watched the repower garage video on YouTube and realized I was way over thinking this wiring issue.
Spliced into the red wire off the ignition switch. But that provides constant 12V. So it’s not that one.
But was able to realize I’m getting codes
729 03 001 and
3597 02 001
Also got the no bus on the instrument cluster
I watched the repower garage video on YouTube and realized I was way over thinking this wiring issue.
Spliced into the red wire off the ignition switch. But that provides constant 12V. So it’s not that one.
But was able to realize I’m getting codes
729 03 001 and
3597 02 001
Also got the no bus on the instrument cluster
Have you messed with Quickserve yet?
Might as well check it out. It sucks when you're on the road and get a random code and you're trying to log on and stuff to figure out what's going on and you've got like no data.
I've only gotten 1 code and couldn't find it and it went away, but still it's annoying.
40th birthday. She just wants to see me drive it before I’m 40 and playing Army In The field again
I’ve completely removed the PCM out of the equation and trying to figure out why this will not turn over. I’ll figure that out at a later time. So I asked Kevin and his response was
“I forget on the TJ, but you have to ground 1 side of the relay and take the power from the switch to the relay. Or it may be the opposite with power the relay and switch grounds relay”
Not really sure what that means.
“I forget on the TJ, but you have to ground 1 side of the relay and take the power from the switch to the relay. Or it may be the opposite with power the relay and switch grounds relay”
Not really sure what that means.
In post #85 where does your alternator cable go? I’ve got mine straight to the battery terminal.
Last question for tonight, did you guys use the cables that came with the engine. Or did you use the axis supplied ones?
Do you have your interlock switch stuff right on the Jeep? You can jumper this just to test fire if you want.
Yes you need to have something on blade 1.
I used the Axis wiring, but it was labelled wrong and the wired fuse ended up on the starter side instead of the grid heater side. I got a half crank and it shot. I used my Cummin's supplied temporarily until I got another fuse.
I'm like 90% sure the Alternator wire went straight to the battery. In any case the Axis kit seemed to physically fit 1 way and mine was labelled.
You might want to start checking for voltage at your starter. If you're unsure about the starting circuit, you can jumper on the starter and crank the engine that way just to make sure that side is right. I tried that after checking for voltage and that's how I found the fused wire was on the wrong spot.
Yes you need to have something on blade 1.
I used the Axis wiring, but it was labelled wrong and the wired fuse ended up on the starter side instead of the grid heater side. I got a half crank and it shot. I used my Cummin's supplied temporarily until I got another fuse.
I'm like 90% sure the Alternator wire went straight to the battery. In any case the Axis kit seemed to physically fit 1 way and mine was labelled.
You might want to start checking for voltage at your starter. If you're unsure about the starting circuit, you can jumper on the starter and crank the engine that way just to make sure that side is right. I tried that after checking for voltage and that's how I found the fused wire was on the wrong spot.