2005 LJR R2.8 build
- Thread starter 1945GPW
- Start date
Well yeah. But it'd be cool. And fun to do.
Maybe if the means fall into my lap I'll pull the trigger
In a moment of forgetfulness I installed the Cummins harness on the firewall with out checking for clearance of the clutch pedal. Needless to say it interferes by a 1/2”.
So tried to take the lazy way out and put a torch to the clutch pedal and move it about. Even with heat shields up and everything. I managed to set the clutch wiring ablaze.
Never torch without a fire extinguisher close by.
Whew
So tried to take the lazy way out and put a torch to the clutch pedal and move it about. Even with heat shields up and everything. I managed to set the clutch wiring ablaze.
Never torch without a fire extinguisher close by.
Whew
I burned up some of the 4.0 wiring insulation during my swap. I had my welding helmet on so I couldn't see it (I guess the fire watch guys were right). I didn't have my fire extinguisher nearby, but it was barely anything and I just put it out with my glove. I did start keeping the fire extinguishers within arm reach.
I was thinking there was a port on the thermostat housing that needed to be capped. I know I had to get a set of caps when I did my install and that's all that I can remember.
As far as capping/venting. I tried capping and just leaving the fuel tank completely vented. It didn't matter much, but I wonder if you left it capped for a long time whether you may have some fuel delivery issues. Instead I could some differential vents ie they don't let stuff come in, just out and I like that better.
Omix-Ada 16561.01 Axle Breather
My tank is different, but this is what I used for a breather.
Just save your money. If you put, say a car payment amount of money into savings each month, when it comes time to get another vehicle (fixing is cheaper than purchasing a new vehicle except in some situations with wrecks), the swap may make sense to you or you have cash, which can be used to get some really good deals. Looking at the way more and more emissions stuff is going, this swap keeps making more and more sense.Well yeah. But it'd be cool. And fun to do.
Maybe if the means fall into my lap I'll pull the trigger
For me fuel economy is just a perk for a diesel 4x4. I don't plan to buy anything that's over about 3k lbs that isn't diesel, especially for the ability to run off-road and on-road. OEMs with their hands tied by CARB, EPA and other rules and regs have done an amazing job with band-aids, but I've found that cutting corners with equipment has never really saved me money/time. It's one thing to limp by until you can make the correct purchase and sometimes you have to just make/fix it yourself. There's several exceptions obviously, but this is my guideline for buy once/cry once.
For me the milage is also just a by-product, the real benefit is ultra reliability with enough torque to pull my trailer up grades and still keep up with traffic. On out trip to Colorado I was down into second gear and getting passed by tractor/trailers on more than one occasion. It could be argued to modify the 6 or swap a V8 but then I am concerned about dependability. Not to mention the V8 thing is more emissions complicated here in northern VA than a diesel swap. My 6 has 129,000 and runs fine, but with that many miles and pulling the trailer, for how much longer?..... This swap is still in my plans for the spring......I just wish the the price was a little less.......
So I’m running into the issue of where did you guys route the heater core coolant hose. I can’t find it in the Cummins manual or in the pictures of the installed engines.
Can you post a photo please
Can you post a photo please
I'm pretty sure I went with the hose from the thermostat to the top of the heater core. Leave them long if you're worried. They're hard to get on the heater core so trim them on the Cummins side
So you run both hoses from The firewall to the water pump?
I can see where I came off of the water pump to the deeration tank isn’t as depicted in the diagram
I can see where I came off of the water pump to the deeration tank isn’t as depicted in the diagram
Think I found the other heater core hose location hidden behind the block. Now I understand why you removed the hard line
I removed much of the that Cummins coolant rail and just ran hose all the way to the thermostat housing and pump. When I did my kit, there's no aeration tank, just overflow.
I'm pretty sure I had to cap something on the thermostat housing, but I can't remember.
You may want to talk with Axis to see if they changed their kits, but I believe much of the reason for the custom (expensive) radiator is so you have a simpler cooling system. I ran for a month or 2 with just a catch can for the cooling system until the Axis overflow showed up. I haven't noticed any issues with cooling.
I will be deleting EGR, but that's not for cooling purposes, but I will probably add a screen before the intercooler and radiator and I hope that won't drop my temp much though. It's better to run warmer, but too hot is obviously bad.
I'm pretty sure I had to cap something on the thermostat housing, but I can't remember.
You may want to talk with Axis to see if they changed their kits, but I believe much of the reason for the custom (expensive) radiator is so you have a simpler cooling system. I ran for a month or 2 with just a catch can for the cooling system until the Axis overflow showed up. I haven't noticed any issues with cooling.
I will be deleting EGR, but that's not for cooling purposes, but I will probably add a screen before the intercooler and radiator and I hope that won't drop my temp much though. It's better to run warmer, but too hot is obviously bad.
Yes that’s wrong, that little cap you posted a picture of a few days ago caps off that thermostat nipple. You have one hose coming off your radiator over flow going into the over flow bottle and another hose coming off the over flow bottle for the drain.. the drain is the one with the metal tube sticking up like 4 inches inside the over flow bottle if that makes sense.... forget the Cummins diagram as they did away with that mess... be sure once you fill with coolant to bleed the system by opening the little bleed cap near the egr and continue to fill until coolant comes out of there. I’ll get a picture if you need..
I forgot to bleed the EGR type stuff (I did bleed the system for a long time and multiple times, but totally forgot). My stuff is running fine, but it's only on there until I'm out of warranty.
What have you found for deletes. I have a mini maxx on my F350 and it was easy to turn the valve off