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2005 LJR R2.8 build


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1945GPW

1945GPW

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unfortunately they didn't provide any instructions, I talked with them last week and they said they would send some diagrams for the ac and pcm but haven’t received anything and now I can’t get ahold of them.
 
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1945GPW

1945GPW

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Axis mentioned having to excite the jeeps cam sensor to keep the engine running. I’m not sure exactly what happens if you do or don’t do this. I’m guessing it shuts power off in the run start wire which I’ll be tapping into for the Cummins ecu. Hopefully I can get some clarification on Monday.
 
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FireJeep

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Have you tried calling Cummins? They may be able to provide some guidance. It is a shame about Axis, for $11,300 for their kit they damn sure should show you some customer support.......such a shame that companies do not value their customers enough to provide them with some information and help.

Looking forward to reading more about your progress..... I am super jealous!!! ;)
 

DieselJeep

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Axis mentioned having to excite the jeeps cam sensor to keep the engine running. I’m not sure exactly what happens if you do or don’t do this. I’m guessing it shuts power off in the run start wire which I’ll be tapping into for the Cummins ecu. Hopefully I can get some clarification on Monday.
Yeah I never understood the "excite" the cam sensor, I was thinking maybe just run 12V to it? Maybe something intermittent? Ultimately I decided I didn't want to mess with some of that and thought I could utilize the J1939, but I couldn't figure it out definitively. Mainly I just wanted to try and "simplify" the wiring so I ran aftermarket gauges. Also by cam sensor I was thinking it was the sensor in the vicinity of the distributor (not sure if your model has the same setup).

Btw, I was noticing your fuel return (I think), that black elbow piece I only had 1 and it seemed to fit in the intake (I think for the crankcase vent). I don't know for certain, as this is a kit and you've just gotta figure everything out and make it work with few instructions unfortunately.

I think Kevin is their electrical guy, send emails and call. They'll reply, but sometimes it's hard to reach them. I didn't know about Instagram or other social media stuff, so at first I didn't even have a picture to check out, which was very difficult at first. They dropped the conversion kit from their site, right after I ordered and Bruisers wouldn't sell me a kit. Bruiser's price for the install wasn't bad, but for a custom vehicle, I wanted to know where and how everything is arranged, because who else is gonna fix it. And documenting like you're doing is a great reminder. I've been trying to work on getting together a series of videos, showing some basics of the install and I didn't realize how much stuff I'd forgotten in just 5 or 6 months, plus you realize what you were thinking at times was just so incorrect.
 
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1945GPW

1945GPW

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This isn’t the elbow your talking about is it? I don’t see how or where in the intake it would go.

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By the way where did you end up putting the engine ground? I should have looked before installing the engine but I don’t see a good spot near the fire wall for how short the cable they provided is.
 

DieselJeep

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92271


It's hard to see, but there was a nipple on one of the intake pipes and it fit. Seemed to be the correct diameter for the crankcase vent. I used all 3.8" fuel line and fittings for the fuel system I think.

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There's 1 ground, but I found one near the timing cover in the rear. It may have been where I removed a bracket for the rear coolant line. This one seems to work well for the grid heater type stuff and then the one in the rear I used for the main wiring.

Btw I looked for that connector from the Cummins ECU, but I couldn't see it from what I have exposed. I tucked a lot away where it'll take me a bit to check it out.

Funny story, I just had the Jeep sitting for a few days and already a mouse bed was on top of my battery. D*mn mice. This is why I love having rat snakes and cats around.
 

DieselJeep

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Looking at your fuel setup again, I didn't have the piece that screws into the black elbow, so maybe they changed that in the kit. And it looks to be the size of the fuel line now that I look at it. Mine is closer to 3/4".
 

DieselJeep

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How are you supposed to get your tach signal? I was wondering if you could get a 5V wire to your cam sensor, run a ground and then run some type of adapter from the Cummins tach output to the signal wire? I attached a screenshot of what my camshaft sensor looked like. It was the bottom one.

Camshaft Sensor.PNG
 

DieselJeep

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Below is something I found from someone doing maybe a 4BT swap, but I'm not sure. Sorry its been so long and I decided to go another direction so I stopped researching. I'm sure you'll be able to get ahold of Axis and they'll help you out, but yeah sometimes you just get stuck. I don't do anything with Facebook, but maybe they've got more information there. I got my routing pictures off of Instagram.

"So in order to get the factory ecm to turn on, it needs to see a cam sensor signal to
excite the ecm. The signal is irrelevant when you do a motor swap. It just needs to see
a pulse to turn on the ecm. I used a kit from Jeff Daniels jeeps (look it up to get an idea).
You will need to use the factory crank sensor. So you will need make and adapter to make it
work. The kit from jd jeeps come with a reluctor ring that welds on to the crank pulley but
a machine shop could machine the groves in the harmic balancer if need be. With ecm on the
factory cluster will operate perfect. I hope this helps you guys out.

Yes the tach will work as long and the crank sensor is mounted and a reluctor ring is on the
pulley."
 
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1945GPW

1945GPW

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Yeah I think they upgraded the vent tube attachment. It’s now just a slick sleeve that the hose clamps to.

For tach signal it’s my understanding that comes from the crankshaft sensor in the bell housing, not the camshaft sensor. So I’m hoping all I need to do is provide 5v to that input signal to the pcm but need clarification from axis. Hopefully it’s something simple and I won’t have to integrate that dang camshaft sensor for the thing to run.
 

DieselJeep

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Yeah I think they upgraded the vent tube attachment. It’s now just a slick sleeve that the hose clamps to.

For tach signal it’s my understanding that comes from the crankshaft sensor in the bell housing, not the camshaft sensor. So I’m hoping all I need to do is provide 5v to that input signal to the pcm but need clarification from axis. Hopefully it’s something simple and I won’t have to integrate that dang camshaft sensor for the thing to run.
I'm guessing it'll still need to see a pulse, but that shouldn't be too hard. Maybe Y some signal from the crank or the Cummins Tach Output. But heck try it first, no big deal to add it later I assume.
 
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1945GPW

1945GPW

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I need to make a correction on one of my previous posts from the very beginning so I don't take anyone down the wrong road if they plan to copy my build. I have deleted the specific post and picture so as not to confuse anyone.

When I originally removed some of the wiring and connectors that I wont be using I had to cut a wire going to my temp sensor. Its a DB/DG wire. Looking at this first wiring diagram I figured it was a power wire so spliced it into the 5V YL/PK wire that feeds many of the other sensors. I never had a real worm and fuzzy feeling about doing this so started looking more into other diagrams. I discovered the the DB/DG wire is wired in parallel into many other sensors and is NOT giving 5v. I attached a multi-meter to another LJ I have on that temp wire and turns out there is about 30MA going through it.

After discovering this I spliced it back into a DB/DG wiring going to the crank and speed sensor. It was originally running through the manifold pressure sensor and throttle sensor but they all end up in parallel with the other sensors so shouldn't matter. After I get the jeep running I will verify the temp gauge is accurate. Anyway just wanted to clear this up.

Here are some wiring diagrams to show what I'm talking about.

IMG_3262.PNG


IMG_3443.jpg


IMG_3444.jpg
 
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1945GPW

1945GPW

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Axis returned my call this afternoon. Have some great news! For the camshaft sensor all that needs to happen is connect the tachometer wire from the Cummins wiring harness to the camshaft input signal. That will give the pcm a signal to wake the factory rpm gauge up. I’ll post some pictures of everything but I’m glad this turned out to be a simple solution to get the gauges working.

Radiators are still on back order so hopefully the end of next week I’ll get it. I was really hoping to have this thing going by now.
 
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DieselJeep

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I'm trying to think, so brace yourself, is there any testing of the gauges and starting system you can do in the meantime? I want to say the radiator and intercooler took a bit longer than expected and the coolant overflow took like 3 months.

I found a bunch of stuff to do in the meantime.

Are the radiators still CBR?
 
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1945GPW

1945GPW

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Partially Installed the power steering lines. Once everything behind the grill is installed I can mount the reservoir. I’m happy with the lines. They fit nicely under the grill. I personally would have made the high pressure line a little longer so they could hug the frame to the corner but it will be fine how it is.

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Test fit the grill and there is Plenty of clearance

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DieselJeep

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Nice. Looks like Axis is improving the kit. I think my fittings sat up a bit more and would have contacted my grill if it wasn't for the body lift. I like your routing. I ended up going through the grill and I guess it gets there, but I like how yours will tuck away more unnoticed.
 
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1945GPW

1945GPW

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Today I cleaned up all the wiring ends at the pcm, spliced in the Cummins tach wire to the camshaft signal and installed all the battery and ground cables.


First remove the cover on the back of the connector

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Then remove the rubber insulator

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Slide the lock open

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Insert pin removal tool into the wire side of the connector and pull the pin out. Napa part number for this tool is 725168

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Before

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After
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1945GPW

1945GPW

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Spliced Cummins white tach wire into C2 wire 34 DB/GY.... This is only for 2005 so Check the diagram for your specific year as they changed. I would also trace the wire before cutting and splicing.

A82ACB20-397A-4BAE-BF57-DD9F34145102.jpeg


ABC41454-8F0E-4DEA-8CA4-1DDC79C0BC42.jpeg


C0A648D5-C675-49B7-9DF9-3B107277EE7D.jpeg
 

DieselJeep

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I need to get that tool. I tried and tried to get those pins to release with a micro-screwdriver, but failed on most. I just hate cutting wires and stuff, if I don't have to.
 
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1945GPW

1945GPW

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I need to get that tool. I tried and tried to get those pins to release with a micro-screwdriver, but failed on most. I just hate cutting wires and stuff, if I don't have to.

I was struggling for a while before I figured out the locking mechanism on the side of the connector lol once I unlocked it they were a breeze coming out. I made a little diagram and marked the location of each wire before I removed them just in case.