R2.8 Cummins Build
- Thread starter BugoutJeep
- Start date
Nope. With the right amount ("too much") junk bolted onto it, a diesel is as good as a gas motor in that department. Better in some regards.
Yes but I was referring to
"Of course, "they" have ruined diesels to a large extent with all the damn electronics - what else is new? Everything is now ruined with "technology"..."
"Of course, "they" have ruined diesels to a large extent with all the damn electronics - what else is new? Everything is now ruined with "technology"..."
Ah! True dat, but diesels are just following gas engines down that rabbit hole.
The rest of the world including Europe was behind the USA on diesel emission regulations as well.
Having lived outside of the US in more than one occasion, I have seen the light when it comes to diesel fuel. From every angle that you may look at it, it just makes sense. It is cheaper to produce from crude, it yields better consumption and the motors can be used with just recycled oil or bio-diesel. Love my diesels and I hate the fact that the VW dieselgate happened. I have nothing but amazing experiences and things to say about my VW diesels and Audis( Pumpe Düse or not) The TDI motor was amazing.
Easy to tune and tweak and if you were prompt at preventative maintenance and oil changes you were handsomely rewarded. A mildly tweaked 1.9 liter motor with a turbo and an easily reachable 300ft/lb torque from 1,900rpm onward is nothing but ridiculous in a good way.
Outside of the US, the myth or infamy of the diesel is not there. You go anywhere outside of the US, and a diesel option is always a top choice.
Easy to tune and tweak and if you were prompt at preventative maintenance and oil changes you were handsomely rewarded. A mildly tweaked 1.9 liter motor with a turbo and an easily reachable 300ft/lb torque from 1,900rpm onward is nothing but ridiculous in a good way.
Outside of the US, the myth or infamy of the diesel is not there. You go anywhere outside of the US, and a diesel option is always a top choice.
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Depends what problem you are worried about. Am I fan of after treatment and all the issues it entails? No. But I am a fan of what it does for tailpipe emissions.
What would the USA be like if every one drove a diesel without after treatment? While gasoline isn't as efficient, It is a lot cleaner without having much emission equipment.
I am not a tree hugging hippie. Just looking at the bigger picture.
What would the USA be like if every one drove a diesel without after treatment? While gasoline isn't as efficient, It is a lot cleaner without having much emission equipment.
I am not a tree hugging hippie. Just looking at the bigger picture.
Then there's the classic propane conversion as seen in many, many places outside of the us and on forklifts.
Here in California we have vehicles that run on propane. Its old technology that hasn't developed since the early 2000s but its still here. Natural Gas engines are huge here as well.
Edit: Now that I think about it there is one company still putting out propane engines. PSI sells engines that run on propane. IC bus uses these.
Edit: Now that I think about it there is one company still putting out propane engines. PSI sells engines that run on propane. IC bus uses these.
OP
Propane stuff is kinda cool, but when I've converted generator stuff, it doesn't give you more power to utilize. I've really thought about Nat gas powered vehicle because natural gas is everywhere here and our farm has it and one day I plan to cut off the utilities which, the only reason we've let them use it is because they maintain some roads and the well, but we don't make any money from it.
It depends on your skill level for mechanical injection vs common rail on which costs more. I could really be swayed either way because I love both for slightly different reasons.
ULSD takes more energy to produce than gasoline I think. Regular old diesel is perfect, but that sulfur in dense driving places kinda sucks. Tailpipe emissions is extremely good now. I've worked indoors with a piece of equipment with 2 4bts powering it and it was a building that was ev only, but it was crazy powerful and wasn't noxious. Our propane stuff stinks more.
Europe kinda cheated with diesel for a long time, but ultimately the laws are written by California and they are ideologically for EV only and banning internal combustion engines and the US has to comply 50 states to sell to any state in the union. And data doesn't seem to phase voters in that area even when it will mean they will have to fork out twice the average yearly wage for a vehicle and accept power black outs.
Of course to save the planet, the other side of the world is going to use wood heat and unregulated coal burning power and unregulated high sulfur diesel powered equipment to make dams and push waste into water ways that lead into the ocean with no worker's safety so we can fight for sustainable energy.
It depends on your skill level for mechanical injection vs common rail on which costs more. I could really be swayed either way because I love both for slightly different reasons.
ULSD takes more energy to produce than gasoline I think. Regular old diesel is perfect, but that sulfur in dense driving places kinda sucks. Tailpipe emissions is extremely good now. I've worked indoors with a piece of equipment with 2 4bts powering it and it was a building that was ev only, but it was crazy powerful and wasn't noxious. Our propane stuff stinks more.
Europe kinda cheated with diesel for a long time, but ultimately the laws are written by California and they are ideologically for EV only and banning internal combustion engines and the US has to comply 50 states to sell to any state in the union. And data doesn't seem to phase voters in that area even when it will mean they will have to fork out twice the average yearly wage for a vehicle and accept power black outs.
Of course to save the planet, the other side of the world is going to use wood heat and unregulated coal burning power and unregulated high sulfur diesel powered equipment to make dams and push waste into water ways that lead into the ocean with no worker's safety so we can fight for sustainable energy.
Untreated diesels are cleaner than untreated gas - because 99% of diesel exhaust goes on the ground rather than staying in the air.
OP
Any diesel in a similarly equipped vehicle will produce less CO2 than a gas engine. Of course I consider gasoline to be a waste by product for producing diesel, so I can see why people would want to use it for something, though gas by products I looked according to some air quality studies was almost all gasoline related, either from exhaust or fumes and stuff like perfume type stuff and various sprays were surprisingly high. Diesel related air quality was almost noon existent, but it's also fairly rare besides semi trucks and equipment.
OP
Changing subjects, here's some videos on my switch installation. Has nothing to do with the R2.8, but it's part of trying to organize my switching and electrical. I went with the Switch Pros SP9100 and I'm still running a few regular switches. Not a difficult install by any means, but I'm happy with it so far, just gotta save up and get some better lights.
Also just something I noticed when I was installing the rocker type switches.
Also just something I noticed when I was installing the rocker type switches.
OP
Well, had to deal with a dead battery a couple of weeks ago and when researching, found out that my manual wasn't as up to date as the new manuals for battery specs. My current battery doesn't have enough RC to handle starting and the cranking ability has slightly declined.
I had been wanting to go with dual starting batteries and I've even got the brackets, but felt that it might be simpler to just go with 1 big battery, so the quest started.
I tried a group 31 I had around and it wouldn't fit, but found a battery from Batteries plus that would, so I ordered it, $400 ouch. Later I did find a slightly cheaper battery, but I also made a little bit of room around the battery tray and had no issues with the new battery and could in fact fit a group 31, but very very tightly.
If you have AC, the group 31 isn't gonna work, the other one, might work if you wiggle it around or something.
Dual batteries is probably the best bet though. I did take some video and explanation of the whole process.
I had been wanting to go with dual starting batteries and I've even got the brackets, but felt that it might be simpler to just go with 1 big battery, so the quest started.
I tried a group 31 I had around and it wouldn't fit, but found a battery from Batteries plus that would, so I ordered it, $400 ouch. Later I did find a slightly cheaper battery, but I also made a little bit of room around the battery tray and had no issues with the new battery and could in fact fit a group 31, but very very tightly.
If you have AC, the group 31 isn't gonna work, the other one, might work if you wiggle it around or something.
Dual batteries is probably the best bet though. I did take some video and explanation of the whole process.
OP
Here's the second part, which actually shows what I did to make it fit. I'm not done, but the Jeep starts again.
OP
Finally finished (hopefully) the gear swap, ARB lockers, super 35 kit, adjustable trackbars, mostly all new bushings, ZJ tie rod conversion, Black Magic pads and rotors, Rancho shocks and OME Springs, tightening up my leaking oil fitting on my R2.8, and some frame rust prevention stuff in the front and probably other stuff.
I do have some minor issues that I have to address. The tie rod boot on the driver's side gets really fat when I add grease and my rotor sliced it, so I'm going to get another type of boot for it. My brakes really felt good for a change until that probably got sliced. My steering wheel still isn't adjusted right too, but that's simple. There's a slow air leak in my rear locker. With my wiring, I can't isolate the front locker from the rear locker, so I'll have to get out some soapy water and look for leaks, but I'm not terribly concerned.
I'm glad to mostly be out of the garage. I want to do other stuff on the weekends and I really hope I didn't screw something up.
Btw the gear ratio was 3.73s. I really like the ratio. I have been kind of going through questioning if I'd prefer 4.10s, but I simulated that with some really small tires I've got. The ~28.5" tires I used to simulate ~4.10s would be too aggressive imo on the highway unless I was towing. I still plan to run a smaller tire over the summer when I'm towing our fishing stuff and on really hilly backroads. I'm thinking 31s will be my summer go-to.
I do have some minor issues that I have to address. The tie rod boot on the driver's side gets really fat when I add grease and my rotor sliced it, so I'm going to get another type of boot for it. My brakes really felt good for a change until that probably got sliced. My steering wheel still isn't adjusted right too, but that's simple. There's a slow air leak in my rear locker. With my wiring, I can't isolate the front locker from the rear locker, so I'll have to get out some soapy water and look for leaks, but I'm not terribly concerned.
I'm glad to mostly be out of the garage. I want to do other stuff on the weekends and I really hope I didn't screw something up.
Btw the gear ratio was 3.73s. I really like the ratio. I have been kind of going through questioning if I'd prefer 4.10s, but I simulated that with some really small tires I've got. The ~28.5" tires I used to simulate ~4.10s would be too aggressive imo on the highway unless I was towing. I still plan to run a smaller tire over the summer when I'm towing our fishing stuff and on really hilly backroads. I'm thinking 31s will be my summer go-to.
AidenC
TJ Enthusiast
What brand tires are you thinking of going with? Id recommend BFG KO3's, they're good all around. Have you tried the r2.8 out towing yet?
OP
I'm running the KM3s right now for my mud tire, but I will check those out for the 31s (side wall is a really big concern). I've had KO2s
The R2.8 pulls really well, but the Jeep isn't great on braking. I pulled about 3k lbs and the trailer would push the Jeep when stopping, so you'd want trailer brakes if you're doing much more than 2k lbs. I think I've pulled around 3,500 lbs (well once I pulled my 8,500 lb truck a quarter mile). The R2.8 pulls really well though. MUCH MUCH MUCH better than the 4.0, but that's also a gearing issue I didn't address. That's not fair to compare the OEM's improper gearing of the 4.0 to a diesel that is much closer to passable gearing.
I typically tow a trailer and kayaks, so it's probably just around 1k lbs and it pulls that great. I gotta figure out the trailer wiring though on the Jeep crazy stuff happens when I plug in the trailer lights and the lights work properly when I plug it to my truck.
AidenC
TJ Enthusiast
If side wall on the tires is an issue I’d go for the Interco SX2 tires. Their sidewall is insanely thick. I was wondering, where I’d the intercooler mounted in the your engine bay