R2.8 Cummins Build

BugoutJeep

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I started with my 1997 Jeep Wrangler Sport with 4.0L engine, AX-15, NP 231, Dana 30/35 3.07 gears. It's not completely finished, but it's very driveable.

I installed:
-R2.8 Cummins
-Axis Industries Conversion Kit (Adapter, CAC, Radiator, wiring, power steering hoses, etc.)
-1" Body lift
-Stainless brake lines from Classic Tubes
-GenRight extended range tank with skid plate
-Dakota Digital VFD3 with GPS module and DSL-1E, diesel Tach adapter
-Luk HD clutch for the AX-15
-New fluids all around
-15X8 5X4.5/ 4.5BS - Part # PCW51-5866
-4x 33x 10.5 BF Goodrich KM 3s
-Corbeau Sport Reclining Seats
-Rear track bar bushing
-New transmission mount
-Probably more that I'll update as I remember

Here's a few pics not in the correct order. I'll try to explain everything but here's just a basic overview of the basic build. I have a bunch of video on the first part, but toward the end when I was routing it was really like watching grass grow or worse.

25 Oct 2018 (2).jpg


30 Oct 2018.jpg


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That's so cool! You're the first person I've seen to actually do one (that I've talked to at least).

Did I ask you what you average for mpg? I heard people claiming 28mpg, but it sounds to good to be true.
 
I don't have great numbers yet, but my first fill up was just over 25 mpg, but that's mixed and a lot of idling and stuff trying to get it up to temp. Second fill up power was out and I just wanted to fill up and fill up my gas can for my generator. When I switched fuels I didn't note how many gallons I used, but I think it 20 mpg +/2 mpg, but that was half city and half towing with some off road travel in 4x4 lo with that trailer.

I think typical with an ax-15 will be 25 mpg mixed. It's a diesel, you can usually hyper mile to upper 20s. With an egr delete and tune I'd imagine low 30s if you geared yourself to say 1500 rpms at 45 mph or something in 5th, but who wants to do that. Use more reasonable gearing and with the delete, I imagine mid to upper 20s.

Drive it like you stole it with 1 ton axles and offroad gearing and weigh your rig to something just shy of a 3/4 ton truck and you're going to get similar to what a typical diesel 3/4 ton gets.

I've got probably under 500 mi so I'm not accurate yet on my mpg as I want to test function and reliability of the actual build stuff before I do big road trips.
 
Still, 25 mpg from a TJ is absolutely amazing. After my supercharger I'm probably going to be getting 10 mpg, no kidding.
 
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Well I know the cliche is that we don't buy these for fuel economy, but I did. Diesel was the key to me purchasing a Jeep years ago and of course I liked Jeeps and the TJ hit my price range for a vehicle that was in good shape with a general structure that was as high tech as I wanted. Since the 1940's diesel really has been the king engine cycle and fuel for doing work.

Diesel has a bunch of benefits over gasoline and yes negatives as well, but the negatives are generally monetary related. Over long periods of time or mileage the negatives tend to diminish for diesel engines. In any case for my build and desires the diesel benefits far outweighed the gas options, though there were certainly some heavy contenders, but the main contenders were already something I could buy off a lot any day in the US. Also when civilians aren't allowed to buy something but government vehicles are allowed as well as buyers from third world countries, then the contrarian in me solidified around a diesel build.

I guess I need to address that the measuring stick won't really work if you compare buying a used vehicle and only repairing it vs converting something from an OEM to a diesel or any other engine not designed to be there. If you want reliable, which typically beats efficient, with cheap repairs, just rebuild your Jeep pretty similarly to OEM and don't go buy a new one. New ones are great, but at the end of the day a POS used vehicle that's over a decade old or more will be cheaper. Well the older 3.8 may have something to say about that, but that's another discussion. OEMs just have resources we don't. They can take multiple over qualified engineers to run analysis and physical testing on a single bracket and then take it to a team of engineers to figure out how to make it as cheaply as possible, thinking about it every way imaginable.

Because of the access in the US, the measuring stick will be a personal one. I used roughly a price of a new Jeep and used the taxes and insurance cost as well and assumed the upgrade would be similar to the upgrade price for Cherokee for the EcoDiesel. Truly this is flawed, but typically we all seem to like to compare. I guess the reality is that it is what I would buy if it was offered and the newer shiny stuff with some awesome entertainment stuff really does very little for me. The incredible comfortable rides, make me want to sleep while driving as well. Even a manual makes me have to think more when I'm driving, though as much as it pains me, I can't knock that hard on autos anymore.

Anyway doing basic calculations and from real world driving I knew I needed around 300 ft-lbs of torque. HP isn't something really needed, but it's a little bit important for deciding on your transmission, but really a torque curve is what you need and once you know RPM and torque you're good to go. If you race then HP matters a lot, but there's no way I'd pick a Jeep to race.

Down time was another big factor for this build. I love driving my Jeep. It's still a bit wild and untamed. So I didn't want to buy a spare Jeep and I didn't want to be working on this project for years and I wanted to plan when I pulled my 4.0 before it blew up on me. At this moment the R2.8 has a lot going on for it. I don't have to search classifieds or junkyards and research stuff heavily just to order the wrong stuff that I can't return. I read Cummins literature, talked with Bruiser and Axis Industries. Axis was closer and seemed to have most of my favorite builds, they worked with Cummins on their Jeeps and they sold a kit (though it went off their site right after I ordered it), so I put the money to the side ordered everything. And if some parts weren't delayed and life didn't delay me, could have been driving in weeks rather than just a couple of months. My Gobi rack will take longer to acquire than it takes to do this swap.

It wasn't incredibly simple, like swapping the 4.0 out for a 4.0, but it's doable for most people. I had been really wanting to do a big build for years and at the moment that want does feel fulfilled and I'm still not done. Now that I'm driving and I was working well over 12 hr days almost every day I could throw at it and staying up relatively late, for me, after work to get more done, I'm finding that I really needed a break and for a bit I'm going to not work on this at all and it's functioning perfectly well in any case.
 
Well I know the cliche is that we don't buy these for fuel economy, but I did. Diesel was the key to me purchasing a Jeep years ago and of course I liked Jeeps and the TJ hit my price range for a vehicle that was in good shape with a general structure that was as high tech as I wanted. Since the 1940's diesel really has been the king engine cycle and fuel for doing work.

Diesel has a bunch of benefits over gasoline and yes negatives as well, but the negatives are generally monetary related. Over long periods of time or mileage the negatives tend to diminish for diesel engines. In any case for my build and desires the diesel benefits far outweighed the gas options, though there were certainly some heavy contenders, but the main contenders were already something I could buy off a lot any day in the US. Also when civilians aren't allowed to buy something but government vehicles are allowed as well as buyers from third world countries, then the contrarian in me solidified around a diesel build.

I guess I need to address that the measuring stick won't really work if you compare buying a used vehicle and only repairing it vs converting something from an OEM to a diesel or any other engine not designed to be there. If you want reliable, which typically beats efficient, with cheap repairs, just rebuild your Jeep pretty similarly to OEM and don't go buy a new one. New ones are great, but at the end of the day a POS used vehicle that's over a decade old or more will be cheaper. Well the older 3.8 may have something to say about that, but that's another discussion. OEMs just have resources we don't. They can take multiple over qualified engineers to run analysis and physical testing on a single bracket and then take it to a team of engineers to figure out how to make it as cheaply as possible, thinking about it every way imaginable.

Because of the access in the US, the measuring stick will be a personal one. I used roughly a price of a new Jeep and used the taxes and insurance cost as well and assumed the upgrade would be similar to the upgrade price for Cherokee for the EcoDiesel. Truly this is flawed, but typically we all seem to like to compare. I guess the reality is that it is what I would buy if it was offered and the newer shiny stuff with some awesome entertainment stuff really does very little for me. The incredible comfortable rides, make me want to sleep while driving as well. Even a manual makes me have to think more when I'm driving, though as much as it pains me, I can't knock that hard on autos anymore.

Anyway doing basic calculations and from real world driving I knew I needed around 300 ft-lbs of torque. HP isn't something really needed, but it's a little bit important for deciding on your transmission, but really a torque curve is what you need and once you know RPM and torque you're good to go. If you race then HP matters a lot, but there's no way I'd pick a Jeep to race.

Down time was another big factor for this build. I love driving my Jeep. It's still a bit wild and untamed. So I didn't want to buy a spare Jeep and I didn't want to be working on this project for years and I wanted to plan when I pulled my 4.0 before it blew up on me. At this moment the R2.8 has a lot going on for it. I don't have to search classifieds or junkyards and research stuff heavily just to order the wrong stuff that I can't return. I read Cummins literature, talked with Bruiser and Axis Industries. Axis was closer and seemed to have most of my favorite builds, they worked with Cummins on their Jeeps and they sold a kit (though it went off their site right after I ordered it), so I put the money to the side ordered everything. And if some parts weren't delayed and life didn't delay me, could have been driving in weeks rather than just a couple of months. My Gobi rack will take longer to acquire than it takes to do this swap.

It wasn't incredibly simple, like swapping the 4.0 out for a 4.0, but it's doable for most people. I had been really wanting to do a big build for years and at the moment that want does feel fulfilled and I'm still not done. Now that I'm driving and I was working well over 12 hr days almost every day I could throw at it and staying up relatively late, for me, after work to get more done, I'm finding that I really needed a break and for a bit I'm going to not work on this at all and it's functioning perfectly well in any case.

Fantastic read and I have to agree with everything you said! I bought my 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD for the fuel economy. I was getting 22mpg maybe 23 sometimes with it and then I invested in Green Diesel Engineerings Eco-Tune and I have never looked back at all! I can get 30 ~ 31 mpg on the interstates if I keep my speed right around 65 ~ 67 and right at 28.5 ~ 29.3 mpg if I don't really watch my speed.

I'd always wanted to own a Wrangler so when my Orange 2006 RHD TJ popped up 20 minutes from my house the summer before last I grabbed it. I always knew I wanted a Wrangler and I never would have guessed how much I was going to like it!

That being said though, I quickly realized just how much gasoline the 4.0L SUCKS! It's difficult from going 600 miles on like 21 gallons of diesel in my 4 door Liberty that weights 4500lbs to 185 miles on 13 gallons of gas in my 2 door Wrangler that weights 3300lbs . . . .

I agree with what you said about it being cliche for buying Jeeps for fuel economy, but that's what I did with my Liberty. I'm looking to get the same gains from my Kubota V2403 swap in my Wrangler!

I know this is a TJ forum but with two kids I keep holding out for the new Diesel Wrangler JL might come out next year in 2019 but my wife and I have been talking, and if it doesn't come out, I think getting a 4 door JK Wrangler is in my future with doing a R2.8 Cummins Swap. My wife really likes the JK wranglers we have ridden in so much better than my TJ. I have a few mods that might help my TJ, mostly suspension seats because my seats I swear the bottom of the barrel seats Jeep would sell for a Postal Carrier vehicle.

I would love to do the Cummin's R2.8 swap and I can't wait to see all the pictures from this thread as well! Like @Chris said you are the first person I have talked to that has actually done this swap!

Thanks
Grant
 
When it comes to 4 door vehicles and I haven't compared these side by side, but I was thinking of getting a Colorado ZR2 with a Duramax and slowly removing stuff and selling it like the bed and going to a flat bed. I do think Jeep will eventually do a diesel, but seriously they've been teasing for so long and you know you're not coming away for under $40k with one and then taxes and insurance will murder you for a decade. Plus once you get it you're going to be eyeing the DEF/EGR stuff and removing it and imagining 10 more gallons of diesel.

Now a slightly older JKU with a 3.8, maybe even a minor fire, might be a good project. And if you've got time to really do the work yourself, you could slowly massage the R2.8 in there or whatever makes sense at the time. Well for $40k you can find a JKU and go to Axis or Bruiser and say you'll see them in a couple of months and come back to a really nice build. The problem with this is having that kind of cash around without raiding something you shouldn't raid.

On another tangent, keeping the banks away from my vehicles is something I've finally been able to accomplish, though I've gone through a lot of rides most would be too ashamed to ride in. But money is something to consider and I don't want to be forced to work forever so I can keep shiny stuff around. I certainly splurged, but at least I don't have a payment (though the funds could have been utilized for a better financial return). It'll be a continual build, but at least every bit of the build will have some purpose that meets my needs and not the bottom line of a manufacturer. Every project even makes me a bit better at my job and I'd rather be the person doing cool stuff than having experiences filtered through TV.
 
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Your JKU for the family project is kind of inline with another project I'd like to do some day to take a 3rd row type vehicle that's smallish ie minivan and convert to 4x4 and diesel. I'm not calling the JKU a minivan btw, but add in a couple kids and pets, where you can't just throw everyone in the single cab pickup and the bed to go out camping anymore. Instead we go on elaborate vacations that imo are fairly boring.
 
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Still, 25 mpg from a TJ is absolutely amazing. After my supercharger I'm probably going to be getting 10 mpg, no kidding.
With aggressive tires, some 4x4, in town driving and poor gearing, I was getting close to 10 mpg as well with the 4.0L. I had some 33s and had to do a lot of driving for work for a bit a few years ago and I was getting high teens, but I was basically so gear/torque limited that I was hyper-miling the 4.0L doing like 45 -65 mph on the highway, but at one point I hit some winds and I couldn't do anything but switch between 3rd and 4th, dropping below 45 mph and in 50 miles went from full to half a tank (that's a slight exaggeration on the mileage during the wind).

The good thing about low mpg, is that you can just look at a tank of gas as a gift to go use the most out of it. If you drive 10 miles getting 10 mpg you saved a bunch than if I went out and drove a hundred miles, because I know I can get x MPG.
 
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I still plan on this swap once my 4.0 shits the bed. Though that's far from happening any time soon!

Well the 4.0 is one of my favorite motors of all time, but personally I think it's a bit under kill for power and most V8s are over kill on stock components where they make peak power IMO.

The diesel swap is certainly not for everyone. It'll either resonate or won't and there's different levels of skill sets, money, and time that we can each utilize if it does strongly resonate. I am a newbie when it comes to swaps, but I wanted the challenge and knew I'd get bogged down in trying to make great the enemy of good. But until I did the swap I spent at least an hour a day everyday on average probably for a few years wanting/reading something like this build.

And I don't want to come across as bashing gas engines or anything, but even a lot of V8s aren't making the torque of most 4 cylinder diesels as low in the RPMs ie the range these vehicles typically would run at. I've read theories that the more your engine has to turn to do the same amount of work the more wear it'll see. It makes some sense, but then different engines have different design limitations and most gas engines are plentiful and parts are cheap, but hypothetically if I don't need to even think of a rebuild for 250k miles then I can save my fuel money up and do the repair when it's convenient. You can typically limp around with some really bad problems in diesel as well, but not so much if it's part of the common rail components.

I guess my rant against gas engines is that manufacturers are just now approaching what 20 year old tech has been doing reliably for diesel engines and they're still not there yet and likely won't without a hybrid system. Gas engines that we're typically looking at for swaps are very fuel hungry because for a vehicle with a gas engine to be efficient you have to pick the biggest engine you can, to meet all the work that you're looking to accomplish. Bigger engines for the most part have to always be fed to keep them running stoichiometrically (I'm not sure about the spelling, but neither is Spell Check) balanced. Diesel engines you can extract the energy from the fuel more directly with your right foot. IE if you go bigger you really won't notice a difference except for all the weight you have to move around and typically this is more of a suspension/frame issue. If a 6BT would easily fit and not be so cumbersome, you'd see almost the same MPG from it as you would the 2.8 Cummins, with proper gearing and for mechanical injection efficiency spikes a bit differently. For the reverse example, put a V8 in a Corolla and you're getting substantially less MPG than whatever the 4 cylinder was in there.

We could get in the weeds though and look at compound turbo builds of some kind of 4 cyliner gas engine kinda like the EcoBoost, but IMO that's maybe a bit more complex than a diesel swap. And remember when you don't have to perfectly time and quantity for your spark, air and fuel, every gas engine is a lot more complex in nature.
 
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Well the 4.0 is one of my favorite motors of all time, but personally I think it's a bit under kill for power and most V8s are over kill on stock components where they make peak power IMO.

I agree completely!

This is my solution to the underpowered 4.0:
https://magnumpowers.com/product/ornare-et/

Of course now my MPG is going to be even worse, and I'll have to run premium fuel :p
 
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I agree completely!

This is my solution to the underpowered 4.0:
https://magnumpowers.com/product/ornare-et/

Of course now my MPG is going to be even worse, and I'll have to run premium fuel :p
Forced induction is certainly something to look into to make a smaller motor a bit bigger. MPG isn't everything, but heck you may see a slight improvement. Find a good source for premium fuel and have fun. I bet it'll sound really cool too. Are you going to open up the exhaust a bit?
 
Forced induction is certainly something to look into to make a smaller motor a bit bigger. MPG isn't everything, but heck you may see a slight improvement. Find a good source for premium fuel and have fun. I bet it'll sound really cool too. Are you going to open up the exhaust a bit?

The guy who builds those is local to me. He machines all of it in his own shop. It puts out around 9-11 psi, is after-cooled, and has its own independent drive pulley. It doesn't whine too much at idle, but when you give it gas, it's definitely a loud supercharger!

I'll open up the exhaust for sure. I plan on removing the cats and post-cat O2 sensors. At that time, I'll probably have someone fabricate me some custom headers and a full exhaust (since the stock headers have the two pre-cats in them and I won't need those anymore since we don't have emissions where I live).

Anyways, it should be a fun experiment!
 
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Are you building the engine up for it? Or is there any issues, with the stock internal components? I figure the compression is low enough stock to not be too much concern, but maybe going to ARP head studs or something would be warranted along with some new seals for the valve train.
 
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The guy who builds those is local to me. He machines all of it in his own shop. It puts out around 9-11 psi, is after-cooled, and has its own independent drive pulley. It doesn't whine too much at idle, but when you give it gas, it's definitely a loud supercharger!

I'll open up the exhaust for sure. I plan on removing the cats and post-cat O2 sensors. At that time, I'll probably have someone fabricate me some custom headers and a full exhaust (since the stock headers have the two pre-cats in them and I won't need those anymore since we don't have emissions where I live).

Anyways, it should be a fun experiment!

I just read up on that Supercharger and that's a beast. You may even want to gear yourself closer to stock with all that on demand torque, but I'm not sure how that'll affect you in other areas. I haven't completely gone through your build, but that'll be a monster for sure and much easier than a swap, though every build has some hurdles it seems.
 
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Are you building the engine up for it? Or is there any issues, with the stock internal components? I figure the compression is low enough stock to not be too much concern, but maybe going to ARP head studs or something would be warranted along with some new seals for the valve train.

Nope, I've only got 50k miles, so I'm keeping the engine stock for now. The pulley that comes with it for 9-11 psi is safe on the stock engine / internals. He's tested them out extensively over the past 6 years or so and never blown a single 4.0 according to what he told me. You can run up to 25 psi with a smaller pulley, but at that point you obviously need to build the engine up as you suggested.

The nice thing is that the compression on these things is already low enough that you don't have to worry about that.
 
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I just read up on that Supercharger and that's a beast. You may even want to gear yourself closer to stock with all that on demand torque, but I'm not sure how that'll affect you in other areas. I haven't completely gone through your build, but that'll be a monster for sure and much easier than a swap, though every build has some hurdles it seems.

I thought about that too! I'm at 5.38 gears right now, so I'm thinking that with the supercharger, the torque is going to be absolutely insane.

I was going to do the V8 swap, but I think this is a lot cheaper, similar power (to the 5.3 at least), and to be honest, there is a place in my heart for the 4.0... It's a great engine.
 
I thought about that too! I'm at 5.38 gears right now, so I'm thinking that with the supercharger, the torque is going to be absolutely insane.

I was going to do the V8 swap, but I think this is a lot cheaper, similar power (to the 5.3 at least), and to be honest, there is a place in my heart for the 4.0... It's a great engine.

You won't be hurting for torque. Before getting into Jeeps and stuff I was more familiar with Japanese bikes and German autos and everything seemed like it was 10:1 or maybe something was even 14:1, or something crazy like that, I don't really remember. The 10:1 motors would handle some boost without doing anything, but yeah you had to either go thick on the head gasket to get more or just go get dished pistons if you were wanting to break axles.

Obviously before you would swap gears you'd test it out, but I think even 3.73s you'd be moving anything you really wanted to move. But you might feel like you're speeding in 4lo.
 
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