2006 TJ Hood Heat Reduction

C.J. Roberts said:
As a couple other guys have already said, louvers will do nothing to keep engine temps down. A properly maintained cooling system will, with QUALITY components, keep your Jeeps engine at the appropriate 210 degrees. This means generally a MOPAR radiator since there hasn't been any other radiator constantly proven capable of doing the job, though many have tried. If you can't get MOPAR, some have suggested that a Denso or Nissan will work, but there haven't been enough long term test to prove that out. Do NOT install an "all aluminum" rad, or one advertising "3 rows for better cooling" as these simply don't work.
If the rad is good, and the water pump and fan clutch are working properly, you should be fine.
Now as to your other concern on keeping underhood temps down, louvers do seem to help. I have a set of the GenRight Long Narrow louvers on my Jeep, and though that wasn't my primary reason for them, they work well to do so. The left one is right over the exhaust, and the right one mirrors it. I figure that since heat rises, the place for louvers is as high as you can get them, and the hood is it. Having the one over the exhaust gives the best chance to vent the most heat that it can. I don't see a need for anything more than that. I won't say that GenRight is wrong about their conclusions on under hood temperature ranges, but they ARE in the business of selling hood louvers.
There are several manufacturers that make louvers that take up most of the hood, but I don't think that they help under hood temps any more than the set I have, and again they do NOT help with engine temps.
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Thank You for taking the time to reply.
I misspoke when i said "overheating" without specifically mentioning that I am taking about hood temperatures and under-hood temperatures.
A/C cannot take the heat and stops functioning properly at this time of year and definitely all summer.
These issues have me thinking of selling...
I guess I can vent the hood, change the wiring, resister, and relay. The A/C is important here when it is the main vehicle and have to attend events...
It is in the shop now to diagnose the major issues.
I didn't even mention the loud clanging that started yesterday when I get up to 35-40 & let go completely of the accelerator; that made me bring it in first thing this morning :)
 
Akitadog said:
Well the engine overheating has thoroughly been addressed.

As for the under hood temps, The hood louvers will only get maybe 10 degrees drop according to some who in the past measured it.
Now if the cats were under the chassis and not in the engine compartment that might make noticeable difference.
Besides that engine is running at 200+ which contributes to the heat soak under the hood.
To get it any lower you could run without a hood....
Click to expand...

I wonder the cost of relocating the cats/exhaust around here...
 
Married Vegan Monastic said:
Thank You for taking the time to reply.
I misspoke when i said "overheating" without specifically mentioning that I am taking about hood temperatures and under-hood temperatures.
A/C cannot take the heat and stops functioning properly at this time of year and definitely all summer.
These issues have me thinking of selling...
I guess I can vent the hood, change the wiring, resister, and relay. The A/C is important here when it is the main vehicle and have to attend events...
It is in the shop now to diagnose the major issues.
I didn't even mention the loud clanging that started yesterday when I get up to 35-40 & let go completely of the accelerator; that made me bring it in first thing this morning :)
Click to expand...

Something very simple is not right here. It shouldn't require any modifications that move away from the stock setup. With some accurate descriptions and pictures when appropriate, the majority of problems people pose here get solved.
 
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Married Vegan Monastic said:
Thank You for taking the time to reply.
I misspoke when i said "overheating" without specifically mentioning that I am taking about hood temperatures and under-hood temperatures.
A/C cannot take the heat and stops functioning properly at this time of year and definitely all summer.
These issues have me thinking of selling...
I guess I can vent the hood, change the wiring, resister, and relay. The A/C is important here when it is the main vehicle and have to attend events...
It is in the shop now to diagnose the major issues.
I didn't even mention the loud clanging that started yesterday when I get up to 35-40 & let go completely of the accelerator; that made me bring it in first thing this morning :)
Click to expand...

What do you mean “A/C cannot take the heat and stops functioning properly?” A better description of the problem can help us diagnose.

Depending on what you are experiencing, it’s a problem somewhere with a component, not the design.
 
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I need to take care of this before summer, so here we go.

The temperature on the rear view mirror has been the tell tail sign of a/c failure in my vehicle.
I get nervous when the mirror reaches about 95 or 96 degrees because I know it just climbs as soon as I stop at a red light; if the red lights are close or if traffic is slow, I am screwed. 112, 117 & higher readings are normal in the summer here.
The a/c stops blowing cold and starts blowing hot air usually. This only happens in the summer "or" if I do not drive the vehicle at least once per week as a precaution or at least once every two weeks when not summertime. After driving the vehicle regularly, the problem "Not during the summer" works itself out.

a/c professionals have told me that the summer heat plus the heat of having the a/c system on creates this problem in many vehicles.
Is the heat overloading the a/c system from working; this seems reasonable to me.
Does this explain the second scenario in when not driving the vehicle for two weeks, usually more?
I do not know enough to overstand what is happening or how to overcome the problem.

I found two video (possible) solutions; one is a white radiator fan that provides more airflow through the radiator; the second is two 12 inch radiator fans blowing up and out of a vented hood.
Will these logically solve the second scenario or only the first?
I am not an a/c man; I am learning how to take care of this vehicle myself with with help from videos and advise from others.

I have had to replace the control panel holding the nobs with the switches behind it in the past year or so, not sure how many years ago.
I was able to get those problems of getting stuck in only one blow mode, only on high fan, and eventually failing by replacing with a non-Mopar part, which was even an earlier year control unit panel because of the hug price in savings; I simply had to swap some one of the control switches to make the new unit and the old temperature switch all work together to my recollection. At that time more than $600 for a Mopar unit was a shock that I wasn't accepting...

I know that there is a problem because of the second scenario; I need to solve both issues.
 
could this be an alternator problem?
How do I test my alternator with the old method of taking off one of the terminals? - I don't recall if one must take off the positive of negative while the vehicle is running...it must be the negative logically, or else how can it run without a positive to run any electrical system needed?
 
Married Vegan Monastic said:
I need to take care of this before summer, so here we go.

The temperature on the rear view mirror has been the tell tail sign of a/c failure in my vehicle.
I get nervous when the mirror reaches about 95 or 96 degrees because I know it just climbs as soon as I stop at a red light; if the red lights are close or if traffic is slow, I am screwed. 112, 117 & higher readings are normal in the summer here.
The a/c stops blowing cold and starts blowing hot air usually. This only happens in the summer "or" if I do not drive the vehicle at least once per week as a precaution or at least once every two weeks when not summertime. After driving the vehicle regularly, the problem "Not during the summer" works itself out.

a/c professionals have told me that the summer heat plus the heat of having the a/c system on creates this problem in many vehicles.
Is the heat overloading the a/c system from working; this seems reasonable to me.
Does this explain the second scenario in when not driving the vehicle for two weeks, usually more?
I do not know enough to overstand what is happening or how to overcome the problem.

I found two video (possible) solutions; one is a white radiator fan that provides more airflow through the radiator; the second is two 12 inch radiator fans blowing up and out of a vented hood.
Will these logically solve the second scenario or only the first?
I am not an a/c man; I am learning how to take care of this vehicle myself with with help from videos and advise from others.

I have had to replace the control panel holding the nobs with the switches behind it in the past year or so, not sure how many years ago.
I was able to get those problems of getting stuck in only one blow mode, only on high fan, and eventually failing by replacing with a non-Mopar part, which was even an earlier year control unit panel because of the hug price in savings; I simply had to swap some one of the control switches to make the new unit and the old temperature switch all work together to my recollection. At that time more than $600 for a Mopar unit was a shock that I wasn't accepting...

I know that there is a problem because of the second scenario; I need to solve both issues.
Click to expand...

You are talking to the wrong “AC Professionals.”

A properly functioning TJ AC system will work fine, and blow plenty of cold air, in your temps. If it does not, there is something not right in the system. Don’t fall for gimmicks like high flow fan systems, or hood vents, or anything else along those lines. Install something like that - and you will still have whatever problem is going on going on.

Start with the basics. Is the system properly charged? If it is low, have you found the leak? Because if it is low, there is most likely a leak.

You mentioned replacing your controls, are they still functioning properly? Specifically, is the blend door operating?

Again, if it is not cooling, there is something wrong which can be corrected. It’s just a matter of finding it.
 
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roverhi said:
Up until a couple weeks ago here in Oceanside, CA it rained some time every week for a couple of months and they weren't gentle rains. One caused a sink hole that closed the 78 freeway for more than a month and turned the roads into a pot hole paradise that ate tires and suspensions. People were trapped by snow in the mountains with some deaths. Think somebody wrote a song about rain in SoCal and NorCal got it worse.
Click to expand...

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C61D69F4-0919-4EE5-8A47-1282BFC29A97_4_5005_c.jpeg
 
Married Vegan Monastic said:
could this be an alternator problem?
How do I test my alternator with the old method of taking off one of the terminals? - I don't recall if one must take off the positive of negative while the vehicle is running...it must be the negative logically, or else how can it run without a positive to run any electrical system needed?
Click to expand...

I don't see how the alternator could be related.
 
Married Vegan Monastic said:
I need to take care of this before summer, so here we go.

The temperature on the rear view mirror has been the tell tail sign of a/c failure in my vehicle.
I get nervous when the mirror reaches about 95 or 96 degrees because I know it just climbs as soon as I stop at a red light; if the red lights are close or if traffic is slow, I am screwed. 112, 117 & higher readings are normal in the summer here.
The a/c stops blowing cold and starts blowing hot air usually. This only happens in the summer "or" if I do not drive the vehicle at least once per week as a precaution or at least once every two weeks when not summertime. After driving the vehicle regularly, the problem "Not during the summer" works itself out.

a/c professionals have told me that the summer heat plus the heat of having the a/c system on creates this problem in many vehicles.
Is the heat overloading the a/c system from working; this seems reasonable to me.
Does this explain the second scenario in when not driving the vehicle for two weeks, usually more?
I do not know enough to overstand what is happening or how to overcome the problem.

I found two video (possible) solutions; one is a white radiator fan that provides more airflow through the radiator; the second is two 12 inch radiator fans blowing up and out of a vented hood.
Will these logically solve the second scenario or only the first?
I am not an a/c man; I am learning how to take care of this vehicle myself with with help from videos and advise from others.

I have had to replace the control panel holding the nobs with the switches behind it in the past year or so, not sure how many years ago.
I was able to get those problems of getting stuck in only one blow mode, only on high fan, and eventually failing by replacing with a non-Mopar part, which was even an earlier year control unit panel because of the hug price in savings; I simply had to swap some one of the control switches to make the new unit and the old temperature switch all work together to my recollection. At that time more than $600 for a Mopar unit was a shock that I wasn't accepting...

I know that there is a problem because of the second scenario; I need to solve both issues.
Click to expand...

The engineers knew they were designing a vehicle that would be sold with a soft top, so they designed it as such.

We had actual temps up to 110 last summer and into the 110s the summer before...my engine got a little past the halfway mark but the AC still blew cold. Sure, it wasn't 45F but it tracked according to what the FSM said it should. If you're getting honest to goodness "hot" air, something is broken.

It's time to find a new shop. There's something wrong but for whatever reason, the one you're talking to doesn't want the work. Hood louvers aren't the answer, and if you install them and it makes any difference, it's only as a bandaid masking the real problem.

At one point I insulated all the low temp refrigerant lines under my hood. In theory that should be a big deal, and maybe scientific measurements would reveal it as such, but it wasn't any night and day change.

Have you ever added refrigerant? If it's overcharged it may be shutting off on high pressure when it gets hot.
 
Plumber1 said:
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View attachment 499442
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Thank You very much for the side topic:
Thanks to "The Source Field Investigations" we know that All of the planets in our solar system are heating up. Like a warped vinyl record our entire solar system has moved into the galactic central plane receiving great energy from the center of the galaxy spiraling outward; this energy builds in our sun & bursts outward toward us reaching us in eight minutes. In India it is common knowledge that the entire sun will burst or send out an ejection from the entire sun, not just a sun spot event. They can this the Samvartica Fire. This occurs every 26,920 years. Benevolent Inner Earth civilizations save groups of pure peoples when this is about to happen. Inner Earth & Ascension preparation are the two most important tasks in this ≈physical density.
That is all I have to say about that for now. Thank You ( :
 
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freedom_in_4low said:
The engineers knew they were designing a vehicle that would be sold with a soft top, so they designed it as such.

We had actual temps up to 110 last summer and into the 110s the summer before...my engine got a little past the halfway mark but the AC still blew cold. Sure, it wasn't 45F but it tracked according to what the FSM said it should. If you're getting honest to goodness "hot" air, something is broken.

It's time to find a new shop. There's something wrong but for whatever reason, the one you're talking to doesn't want the work. Hood louvers aren't the answer, and if you install them and it makes any difference, it's only as a bandaid masking the real problem.

At one point I insulated all the low temp refrigerant lines under my hood. In theory that should be a big deal, and maybe scientific measurements would reveal it as such, but it wasn't any night and day change.

Have you ever added refrigerant? If it's overcharged it may be shutting off on high pressure when it gets hot.
Click to expand...

Thank You for your reply; I appreciate your assistance. It is time for my to educate myself on the entire air conditioning system to learn to repair or survice it correctly myself... Time for YouTube and to dig into the service manual... Any videos or educational materials would be appreciated. Thank You ( :
 
Our LJ has no problem with the air conditioner keeping us cool in the Louisiana heat . Everything under the hood is factory original . I do believe lowering the under hood temperature would be a good thing , but it doesn't seem to be critical . We've been driving ours here for over 10 years in all kinds of temperatures and traffic without overheating and with cold air . Naturally it won't be as cold in the Jeep when the temperature is around 100 and sitting in traffic or idling .
 
Married Vegan Monastic said:
Thank You very much for the side topic:
Thanks to "The Source Field Investigations" we know that All of the planets in our solar system are heating up. Like a warped vinyl record our entire solar system has moved into the galactic central plane receiving great energy from the center of the galaxy spiraling outward; this energy builds in our sun & bursts outward toward us reaching us in eight minutes. In India it is common knowledge that the entire sun will burst or send out an ejection from the entire sun, not just a sun spot event. They can this the Samvartica Fire. This occurs every 26,920 years. Benevolent Inner Earth civilizations save groups of pure peoples when this is about to happen. Inner Earth & Ascension preparation are the two most important tasks in this ≈physical density.
That is all I have to say about that for now. Thank You ( :
Click to expand...

w.....t.....f..........

And here, I thought other people on here were bsc...
 
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