32RH P0740 Code

[hear]

Assuming you have a 97 (I skimmed the thread, and it sounds like you do) it will be cavity B11 at the computer for the solenoid control. There is always 12V to the solenoid on the RD/LG wire with the Jeep running. The computer provides ground on the OR/LG wire when it wants to turn on the lockup. Check for continuity from the computer to the OR/LG wire on the TCC plug, and check for 12V on the RD/LG wire with (I think) the key ON, but possibly with the jeep running. Also check fuse 11 behind the glovebox. Power to the TCC is through that fuse.

Checking for the switched ground from the computer will be more challenging.

The connector at the trans will have two wires, the OR/LG wire which goes to the computer, and a RD/LG wire.

 

[Ken G Ford]

UPDATE: Things finally settled down with the move and work. Went out to work on the Jeep and the first thing I did was pull out the Computer. No idea who the engine re-builder bought the computer from but after speaking with Mark at WranglerFix, decided to send it out to him to be re-flashed after explaining that I am getting a P0740 Code. No TQ Lock Up. Computer returned and I installed and P0740 re-appeared again. I unplugged the whole harness that goes down to the Transmission all the way back to Gas Tank and pulled the wire loom up into the engine compartment. Way easier to inspect. Pulled the brittle plastic covering off and it appeared that the wired was a little frayed where were it was crimped to the pin on the connector going into TQ Clutch solenoid.
Cut connector off and then found out it is no longer available..... great. Managed to remove the Pins and soldered them to the wires along with heat shrinking the wires to give them some more protection. Checked continuity from computer B11 down to OR/LG Pin at TQ connector and got good continuity. Reinstalled connector and went for a drive. Still getting P0704. I then checked the Fuse behind the glove box and it was Good. Thinking that some were from that fuse box to the TQ Lock Out connector on transmission the RD/LG wires is broken? Will check if I'm getting the 12VDC at the connector itself in the morning since I only checked the fuse and not that voltage at fuse or connector with key on. Question: If I run +/- 12vdc from battery directly to the TQ Lock Out connector on transmission (RD/LG and OR/LG) wires with engine off, I should hear/feel the solenoid activate while under the jeep, correct? My thinking is that If I can hear/feel it activate, the only thing it could be is the RD/LG wiring +12VDC through the Fuse 11 is not getting to the solenoid so even if the computer sends OR/LG to ground, the TQ solenoid never activates the TQ Lock Out? This issue seems easy but turns out to be a real pain crawling under the jeep with limited access to connector, and then not really knowing if you fixed anything until CEL turns on. Sometimes right away, and sometimes after several drive.

 

[hear]

You won’t be able to hear/feel the solenoid fire with the pan on. With the pan off you can probably feel it click if you put your finger on the valve body. Maybe. If you go that far, it’s 10 bolts to remove the valve body and you can directly inspect the solenoid.

Btw, the connector on the outside is (on some models) the same exact connector that’s on the inside. So if you buy the solenoid, it will come with a connector that you can cut off and splice into the harness. Of course that will leave you with a solenoid that doesn’t have a connector, so you have to buy another one if you actually need to replace the solenoid. OR….if you know you have to replace the solenoid, cut the connector off the old one and splice it into the outside harness.

But you were able to repin yours, which is awesome.

 

[Ken G Ford]

Hmm... just measured 12VDC at the plug that going into the transmission with ignition keyed turned on so..... Bad solenoid or possibly wiring on inside of transmission. Like you said, if I'm gonna pull the transmission pan to try and feel the TQ Lock up solenoid activate, I may as well replace it. So how hard is it to remove Valve Body? Pisses me off since the transmission was fully rebuilt and after this issue came up, they pulled the transmission twice. Seems they should have caught that TQ Solenoid was bad..... Now that I'm in TX and not AZ where transmission shop is, looks like I am gonna have to attempt this myself. I'm thinking drain the ATF, remove Pan. Remove Filter and CAREFULLY removed the 10 bolts and gently drop the valve body down. Hopefully not small bearings and stuff that could fall out. Then hopefully the TQ Lock Up Solenoid will be obvious ? gonna try and scour the internet to see if I can find a picture of what I will be looking for.

 

[Ken G Ford]

Is this what I am looking for? connector looks the same as the connector on outside of transmission coming down from PCM.

https://www.shopjeepparts.com/jeep-tj-xj-30rh-32rh-transmission-shift-solenoid-p-29187.html

 

[Ken G Ford]

Just found a post of 32RH transmission TQ Solenoid being replaced. didn't look to bad. Looks like Pump and spring will fall out after removing the VB? and when re-installing the Park Rod can be difficult? Doing this obviously with transmission still in the Jeep. I think I may as well check wiring inside of transmission and apply 12VDC to the wires inside just to see if I can feel/hear solenoid activate before I actually pull VB.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/threads/tc-solenoid-change-walkthrough.149526/

 

[hear]

VB is not that hard to remove, but you're gonna get ATF all over you.

• Remove the 2 linkages from the shift selector shaft.
• Unplug the TCC from the plug on the outside of the transmission
• Drop the pan, let it all drain.
  • unsure if you have to remove the filter or not, based on a recent picture, you might not have to remove it. Removing it will help it drain.
• Disconnect the TCC from the plug on the inside of the transmission.
  • IF it's like the one you pictured in post #25 then you remove the metal clip and it slides off
  • IF it's the other style, you'll have to "pry" the leads off the posts
• Remove the 10(?) 11mm bolts around the permeter of the VB.
  • careful on the last couple because...
• Under the "round" edge of the VB is the accumulator piston. There is a spring in front of that piston and another behind it.
  • they're big springs, you won't lose them, but be aware that fluid is gonna dump from it too.
• as you drop the VB down you need to negotiate two things:
  • one is that the selector shaft needs to drop straight down through that hole
  • second is that the park rod needs to get past the park pawl & sprag. This might be easier if you shift it to neutral before you start, but I always do it from Park

Now you have the VB off. Flip it over and find the T15(?) screw that holds it down.

Now do all that in reverse.

It's a good time to replace your filter, and if you don't already have a Lube Locker I would recommend it. I think it's LLR-904. And if you think you might ever drain your fluid again, I would highly recommend the Summit Racing deep pan with the drain plug for ~$50. It also comes with a filter & rubber gasket if you want to use it instead.

 

[hear]

Is this what I am looking for? connector looks the same as the connector on outside of transmission coming down from PCM.

https://www.shopjeepparts.com/jeep-tj-xj-30rh-32rh-transmission-shift-solenoid-p-29187.html

There are 2 styles of passthru connector. The outside is the same regardless, and has a connector that looks like the end attached to the solenoid in your link.

Inside is where they differ. One has that same connector type on the solenoid side inside the transmission, in other words both sides use the same style connector. The other type has a solenoid that just has two spade-end leads; the connector has two bare pins that the spades push onto, and then on the outside has the same connector end. You won't know what you have till you open the pan.

The last solenoid I bought came with the correct passthru, but the one I bought before that didn't. So it's a real crapshoot.

 

[Moglocker]

There are 2 styles of passthru connector. The outside is the same regardless, and has a connector that looks like the end attached to the solenoid in your link.

Inside is where they differ. One has that same connector type on the solenoid side inside the transmission, in other words both sides use the same style connector. The other type has a solenoid that just has two spade-end leads; the connector has two bare pins that the spades push onto, and then on the outside has the same connector end. You won't know what you have till you open the pan.

The last solenoid I bought came with the correct passthru, but the one I bought before that didn't. So it's a real crapshoot.

I must be missing something,if it was professionally rebuilt,shouldn’t they have to make sure the converter locks up?

 

[hear]

I must be missing something,if it was professionally rebuilt,shouldn’t they have to make sure the converter locks up?

Oh sure, if this was a rebuild it should’ve been correct when it was picked up. I’m sure I missed or since forgot the original context here.

But it still could be wiring. OP verified 12V at the connector, but it’s the computer supplying ground that actually makes it work. And all you can really do there is verify the wiring from PCM to plug.

Or to get more invasive, back probe that wire at the PCM with a test light and see if it lights up while driving.

 

[Ken G Ford]

Wanted to give an update. The PCM was sent out to Wrangler Fix and they double checked its functions and re-flashed to make sure the PCM was sending the TQ lock up signal. Wiring all the way down to plug on transmission was checked for 12VDC with keys on. I pulled the Transmission pan and drained it and Its been sitting like that for a couple of days hoping to drain as much as possible. I will re-read the instructions by Moglocker above and then pull the Valve Body on Saturday and replace with new solenoid. I did confirm that the passthrough connector on inside of transmission is the Pin Style and not the plug style with clip. Will be installing the spade plugs on the new solenoid I purchased. Will update once its back together to confirm if replacing the TQ Lock Up Solenoid does in fact fix my original issue.

 

[Moglocker]

Wanted to give an update. The PCM was sent out to Wrangler Fix and they double checked its functions and re-flashed to make sure the PCM was sending the TQ lock up signal. Wiring all the way down to plug on transmission was checked for 12VDC with keys on. I pulled the Transmission pan and drained it and Its been sitting like that for a couple of days hoping to drain as much as possible. I will re-read the instructions by Moglocker above and then pull the Valve Body on Saturday and replace with new solenoid. I did confirm that the passthrough connector on inside of transmission is the Pin Style and not the plug style with clip. Will be installing the spade plugs on the new solenoid I purchased. Will update once it’s back together to confirm if replacing the TQ Lock Up Solenoid does in fact fix my original issue.

You mean @hear

 

[Ken G Ford]

Yes, @hear

 

[hear]

<frantically re-reads thread to see how firmly I stated that this would fix it>

 

[Ken G Ford]

OK, just pulled out the OLD solenoid. Since it had Spade Terminals, I decided to touch it to 12VDC on Battery to see if was dead.
Nothing, no click at all and the plunger/coil didn't seam to move. Cut the spades and wires from it and cut plug from NEW Solenoid.
The plan being to solder the wires with a little heat shrink over the solder. Anyway, thought what the heck, lets see what the NEW solenoid does with 12VDC from battery. NOTHING. not a click or anything. The realized my Jeep battery was low at 11.56VDC. Used my daily driver GMC 1500 and sure enough, Old Solenoid is dead and new solenoid make a small clicking sound. Finishing soldering and heat shrink and feel more confident about putting it all back together with the NEW solenoid. Will let everyone know results once I get it back on the road this weekend. Seems like the issue is a bad TQ Lockup solenoid but Keeping my fingers crossed anyway

 

[hear]

Nice work troubleshooting. It's easy to just fire the parts cannon, but doing a very tiny amount of preliminary testing can at least give you some confidence around what it not working in the first place. If the old one wouldn't click and the new one will, I'm pretty optimistic that you've found the problem.

 

[astjp2]

Hopefully your transmission shop doesn't do what mine did...I paid $1000 for an AX-15 rebuild...I did all the swapping... transmission was in and out five times in two months and never worked. Ended up cancelling my CC changes and buying a new one from Advanced Adapters. Good news is I am really fast at pulling transmissions in Jeeps.

-Mac

Only once? I did 5 nsg’s in 20 miles and 2 of the bad ones were overhauled.

 

[macleanflood]

Only once? I did 5 nsg’s in 20 miles and 2 of the bad ones were overhauled.

Well I brought it back to the same shop 6 or 7 times. You get really really good at pulling and installing transmissions and transfer cases.

-Mac

 

[astjp2]

Well I brought it back to the same shop 6 or 7 times. You get really really good at pulling and installing transmissions and transfer cases.

-Mac

Install in 3 hours pull in 2

 

[hardtailpan]

<frantically re-reads thread to see how firmly I stated that this would fix it>

I read this entire thread, I thought you did an awesome job of explaining things.