4.5 inch Metalcloak springs

Sounds like im going to need the super short SYE. Maybe it will help. With the excessive down travel. It going to be a long road. It might take 6 months to gather all my parts.

But from the sounds of it i just need to think about how much weight im going to add onto the Rig last thing i want to for it to end up a 5+ inch lift. But then again I don't want to end up with 3 inches. (Insert wife joke)
 
Excessive down travel is an interesting statement! Can't think of a wife joke. :)
 
Chris said:
Looked like they were at the shocks.
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He would need one over the rear diff if he was making use of the extra droop. Limit the driveshaft droop with a center strap, but still let the axle flex past that.
 
jjvw said:
He would need one over the rear diff if he was making use of the extra droop. Limit the driveshaft droop with a center strap, but still let the axle flex past that.
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Yeah, I'm not entirely sure. He may have had one. I wasn't paying close enough attention to the details when we were talking. Either way, that thing has MC 4.5" springs front and rear.

I ordered the Currie springs for mine, following your lead.
 
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Remember Metalcloak make a big thing about their springs having a dual rate.

It's not the traditional dual rate where you get a softer ride on initial compression, its based on binding the softer portion so the springs don't unseat on full extension - as such they will be longer than anything else out there when measured out of the vehicle
 
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Daz7 said:
Remember Metalcloak make a big thing about their springs having a dual rate.

It's not the traditional dual rate where you get a softer ride on initial compression, its based on binding the softer portion so the springs don't unseat on full extension - as such they will be longer than anything else out there when measured out of the vehicle
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Its a little easier than that. MC is building their springs for downtravel. They are also building their springs around the stock shock mounts and the bump stop requirements and the goofy travels that happen when a long shock is installed in too small of a space. This plays in nicely with the LCoG crowd. There is a very deliberate intention behind it and it isn't about building a well balanced suspension.
 
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Well this went from simple questions about the ride height on springs. To an all out bashing and hating on them.

All i really care about is the amount of true lift people who use or have used them have.

I am in the minority i have not drunk the Currie koolaid. And have already decided to use the MC springs. I was looking for was a bit of information from the other people in the minority. So i got the right springs to get the height i wanted.
 
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I wouldn't feel bad about using the MC springs. Like I said, Dave (MUDB8) uses them on a lot of his builds. While I don't know why exactly he does this (well, not all the reasons at least), he clearly sees some value in them, so they can't be all that bad. I don't think anyone was intentionally trying to "hate".

All I know about the MC springs is that if you don't have a lot of weight (i.e. full doors, hard top, full size spare, armor, etc.), you'll usually get about 1" more of lift than advertised.
 
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Bashing? Was anything I said incorrect?

Pay attention to the rear bump stop requirements and make sure the springs fit at full bump. Hopefully that 6.75" block of solid mass isn't an unnecessary restriction on the suspension. If it isn't, then great. Find a shock that makes as much use of the travel between bump and drive shaft bind as possible.

20170211_131137.jpg
 
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I love mine on and off-road. I'm not as well versed in suspension geometry yet but they work for me. Mine are 3.5" springs with their arms and it works really well off-road. This is just a poser pic from our last trip out but I have plenty of travel.

20181117_182350.jpg
 
I don't remember off the top of my head, I will look them up. Like I said it is not 100% correct in its current config but it works pretty good. I am slowly learning and fixing so don't be too harsh, lol. I upgraded from a skyjacker 4" lift to this, now I'm just going to dial in what I have.
 
softballnrd27 said:
I am going to work on my bump stop and suspension geometry to dial it in right after some more research.
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Cycling the suspension without springs is step one so that you can determine the bump stops.

If you look at the pic I posted of my rear spring seats, you will see that with just over 3" of bump stop extension, there is 6" of space for a solid coil to fit into. If I were to put a MC 4.5" in there, I would need to add at least .75" more extension. On my particular setup, this would result in a loss of that same amount of up travel. And I know that I could not regain that travel on the down side.

A statement to the room...

This is not bashing a product. This is simply a matter of fitting pieces together and paying attention to what the results are. It does not matter what the brand name is. If the results are what you are looking for, then there is no real problem with these springs.
 
softballnrd27 said:
I don't remember off the top of my head, I will look them up. Like I said it is not 100% correct in its current config but it works pretty good. I am slowly learning and fixing so don't be too harsh, lol. I upgraded from a skyjacker 4" lift to this, now I'm just going to dial in what I have.
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You have the right questions in your head. The more you dig into things, the more you will see how everything fits.
 
Front 16.5" comp, 26.68 ext, 10.188" Travel
Rear 16" Comp, 25.25 ext, 9.25" travel
RS9000 XL shocks.
I picked them based on lift height before I really knew what I was doing with suspension geometry. Like I said still trying to learn and make it right
 
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