I had the generic 706 code and 1776, I have replaced the selenoid pack and thought it was good, now it's going into limp mode again. Replaced the tcm and no change but couldn't get the codes this time just the 706. Any ideas
42RLE transmission problem
- Thread starter Larrybortz
- Start date
Have you by any chance had the Jeep in deep water lately? Also be sure to Google the p1776 code including 42RLE and Wrangler. There are a lot of threads on that issue. I had problems with my 42RLE 2 years ago but not the same code or symptom. A solenoid assembly and a Transgo Stage 1 kit took care of mine though I'm not sure if the Transgo kit had anything to do with it.
Good luck with it, I know the frustration you're feeling right now
Good luck with it, I know the frustration you're feeling right now
I had the same codes and limp mode on my 06. Take it to a trusted transmission shop. They'll be able to tell you if it's an electrical vs mechanical issue like torque converter not locking up.
Don't drive it in limp mode if you can avoid it.
I'd check if the fluid smells burnt. That with those issues spelled the end for mine. My pcm was bad too and I replaced that first as you did.
Don't drive it in limp mode if you can avoid it.
I'd check if the fluid smells burnt. That with those issues spelled the end for mine. My pcm was bad too and I replaced that first as you did.
There are quite a few threads about 2004 TJs with P1776 but few that follow through to resolution.
I don't think that P1776 is necessarily the solenoid pack. The code indicates that the Solenoid Switch Valve is stuck in L/R. The switch valve itself is in the valve body. Could be that the valve is stuck or that the solenoid pack isn't directing fluid flow properly because of a short in the wiring harness.
I think it's time to start tracing the wiring from the TCM to the transmission. If no wiring issues are found, rather than dropping the valve body again, I think I would take it to a shop where they can perform pressure tests to determine if the valve is indeed stuck.
I don't think that P1776 is necessarily the solenoid pack. The code indicates that the Solenoid Switch Valve is stuck in L/R. The switch valve itself is in the valve body. Could be that the valve is stuck or that the solenoid pack isn't directing fluid flow properly because of a short in the wiring harness.
I think it's time to start tracing the wiring from the TCM to the transmission. If no wiring issues are found, rather than dropping the valve body again, I think I would take it to a shop where they can perform pressure tests to determine if the valve is indeed stuck.
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Found the transmission relay had some green corrosion coming out of it so changed it out and so far today I have had no code, we ran Charloue Gap today, great run hopefully it will keep working
Think it's fixed, ran all day and worked perfect. Now my Currie steering on the other hand is going to require a press, it's got a smile after I slipped off a rock in a stream we were running up.
Good to hear that you got it resolved. It looks like the solenoid pack receives battery power from the RD wire coming off the relay. If there was corrosion at the relay terminals, that could certainly explain why the switch valve was not moving.
Wtpancoast
New Member
My solution after the P1776 codes: the first time I was in hill country and shifting manually from OD to D numerous times plus a time or two downshifting to second. I didn’t notice the P1776 until I started it back up a half hour later and was in limp mode, stuck in second. I took it to THE tranny shop in the area and had them check all the numbers (all within range) and had the fluid and filter changed. The fluid was dirty again in a week and I removed fluid with a fluid extractor down the dip stick hole (about 2.7 quarts at a time) and replaced the fluid each time until it was red.
The second time I got the code a couple of weeks later I was again shifting OD to D and back numerous times. The tranny did not go into limp mode, and I cleared the code and the tranny was fine. What I surmised was that my numerous shifts from OD to D and back confused the tranny controls. OD takes about twice as much fluid and pressure as does D. I was shifting back to D before allowing OD to function as designed. Now I keep it in OD all the time and let the accelerator pedal do the shifting. No problems since.
All good posts - the 42 runs a thin fluid and runs warm, needs good line pressure and the overdrive works it hard, especially with stock gears and big tires-
I run a cooler, as many guys do, kill the overdrive when I feel it’s needed, and try not to mess with the switch unnecessarily -
We are all at the point the wiring harness loom is cooked as well. It pays to inspect them.
A small piece of gasket material got into my valve body and created havoc.
It is a “smart” transmission, at the same time it is pushed to its limits with big tires due to it’s final drive ratio and tendency to run warm.
I run a cooler, as many guys do, kill the overdrive when I feel it’s needed, and try not to mess with the switch unnecessarily -
We are all at the point the wiring harness loom is cooked as well. It pays to inspect them.
A small piece of gasket material got into my valve body and created havoc.
It is a “smart” transmission, at the same time it is pushed to its limits with big tires due to it’s final drive ratio and tendency to run warm.
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