I am looking into converting my 1997 Wrangler TJ from Manual to Automatic Transmission. Looking for a parts list and possible directions. From articles I've read this doesn't sound too difficult. But wanted to discuss with someone whos done this already.
97 TJ: Manual to Automatic Transmission Conversion
- Thread starter AdamN
- Start date
@Jerry Bransford did this to his. Maybe he will chime in.
In fact Jerry, it might be worth it for you to do a parts list (at least as best as you can remember) which I could move to the "FAQ" section, only because I see this question come up from time to time. It might be nice to have a thread to refer people to. Just a thought.
In fact Jerry, it might be worth it for you to do a parts list (at least as best as you can remember) which I could move to the "FAQ" section, only because I see this question come up from time to time. It might be nice to have a thread to refer people to. Just a thought.
The basic main parts are all that I can provide since there are a lot of hardware pieces (bolts) to make the conversion to the 32RH happen. Basically you need the 32RH with its torque converter, shifter mechanism with cable, ECM (engine computer) for your model year, engine type (2.5 or 4.0), and programmed for the automatic. Then you also need the "extended seal" for the 32RH you can get from www.teraflex.com to properly seal the 32RH to your transfer case. Automatic transmission mount and bracket is different too. Flex plate to replace the flywheel on the engine. Low-profile bolts made to bolt the torque converter to the flex plate. Transmission cooler lines for your model year, they vary in routing between model years so they're not all the same.
The wiring is already present, the transmission's torque converter lockup cable and connector and the NSS (neutral safety switch) cable & connector is already secure in the transmission tunnel above the transmission.
This is not a difficult conversion, in fact it is actually very straight forward. Likely the most difficult part will just be rounding up all the parts needed.
Hey just noticed you're in Houma, My son's a commercial diver and is actually working offshore there now.
The wiring is already present, the transmission's torque converter lockup cable and connector and the NSS (neutral safety switch) cable & connector is already secure in the transmission tunnel above the transmission.
This is not a difficult conversion, in fact it is actually very straight forward. Likely the most difficult part will just be rounding up all the parts needed.
Hey just noticed you're in Houma, My son's a commercial diver and is actually working offshore there now.
Well, it looks like AdamN either took all the info and ran with it, or maybe it scared him off...? 
So, there's a guy near me who just did an LS swap in his '97 TJ. He still has the motor, auto tranny (that he claims was rebuilt 5-10,000 miles ago), and the 231 t-case with new bearings, seals, and a slip yoke eliminator that was all installed at the same time the tranny was rebuilt. He wants $200 for everything. Says he has the radiator, too. He kept the ECM for his rig, and unfortunately, just threw out everything else associated with the old drivetrain yesterday (!!!). As in, it was picked up, and is in a landfill by now. Bummer. I'm going to talk with the guy tomorrow, as I've considered doing the swap to an automatic, and this seems like a helluva start. Even if I don't do it right away, it'd be worth having these items if they're what he says they are. Any ideas/input/comments on this? Would appreciate any input. Thank you!
BTW, if the guy's rig is anything at all, I'll try and get some pics of it. Hell, maybe even get him to join the ranks of the forum!
So, there's a guy near me who just did an LS swap in his '97 TJ. He still has the motor, auto tranny (that he claims was rebuilt 5-10,000 miles ago), and the 231 t-case with new bearings, seals, and a slip yoke eliminator that was all installed at the same time the tranny was rebuilt. He wants $200 for everything. Says he has the radiator, too. He kept the ECM for his rig, and unfortunately, just threw out everything else associated with the old drivetrain yesterday (!!!). As in, it was picked up, and is in a landfill by now. Bummer. I'm going to talk with the guy tomorrow, as I've considered doing the swap to an automatic, and this seems like a helluva start. Even if I don't do it right away, it'd be worth having these items if they're what he says they are. Any ideas/input/comments on this? Would appreciate any input. Thank you!
BTW, if the guy's rig is anything at all, I'll try and get some pics of it. Hell, maybe even get him to join the ranks of the forum!
If anyone will be able to give you the best info on this, it's Jerry, only because he did the swap himself.
I grew up all my life driving nothing but manual transmissions, but I definitely prefer the TJ in an automatic. The 32RH is a great transmission as well. The 42RLE as you know has that damn pesky .69 overdrive gear which is annoying as hell (though much better when you re-gear).
Definitely tell this guy about the forum!
I grew up all my life driving nothing but manual transmissions, but I definitely prefer the TJ in an automatic. The 32RH is a great transmission as well. The 42RLE as you know has that damn pesky .69 overdrive gear which is annoying as hell (though much better when you re-gear).
Definitely tell this guy about the forum!
Well, turns out the guy had a potential buyer who actually showed up and followed through, which is fine. I respect that he said he was giving this fella first shot at the parts, as he had scheduled a time to look at 'em before I did. I had some other stuff that had to be taken care of, such as a dump-run. While there, a TJ showed up towing a trailer full of old lumber. It was nice. 4" lift on it. When I finished unloading my truck, I jumped over and helped him unload his trailer. I told him about the forum, and we discussed it for a bit. Hope he checks it out. Seemed like a nice fella, and definitely had a nice ride.
Brian Isak
New Member
Good Evening Jerry!
I'm new to the forum, and a relatively new TJ owner! I hear you are an expert in converting a manual transmission to an automatic and I am desperate for your help. First of all, thank you for reading my reply. I've been struggling with this project for some time now and really need some expert advice. I'll try to explain the situation in detail. I purchased a 2000 Sahara Auto that had a bad engine (rod knock I believe). I then purchased an engine from another Jeep guy here in Colorado (the engine I purchased had a manual transmission attached). I've done quite some work to the engine (head gasket, rear main seal, oil pain gakset, etc...). I dropped the engine in the Jeep and go to mate it to the bell housing. I made a VERY rookie mistake and drew them together with the mounting bolts - and you guessed it...damaged the trans pump (torque converter was not properly seated I believe). Reason I knew something was wrong was when I went to turn the crank, it was completely locked up. Ended up pulling the trans and took it to a nearby shop. He replaced the pump and all of the clutches inside (he said he thinks the previous owners ran low on fluid as the clutches were smoked). $1,000 later i'm back in the garage, this time attempting to mate the engine/trans together outside of the Jeep (I then plan to drop it in as one unit). I filled the torque converter with new ATF-4 fluid and made sure it was seated correctly this time. I get the trans right up to the engine, but it's not seating as flush as it should, even with some force. I ended up installing the lower left bolt, tested the crank, and it moved, so I continued with the other bolts. I installed all the bolts (obviously not torque-spec tight), but I noticed the lower right bolt was loose. So I began tightening...(you think i'd learn my lesson the first time). As I start tightening, the bolt gets tight sooner than it should. I go to test the crank and...locked up! Yup, pump damaged again. I dropped off the trans/t-case to the shop this morning for a new pump. With all that said, I was told that I may need to remove the pilot bearing and collar from the new engine (as it had a manual transmission attached to it and mine is automatic). I really do not want to damage anything else moving forward so I could really use your help. Should I proceed removing the pilot bearing and collar? Then do I need to purchase the extended output shaft seal as well? It seems like the torque converter was possibly hitting the pilot bearing, thus causing the engine/trans not to mate correctly? Thank you in advance for your assistance. This project has been a bit of a struggle, but i've certainly learned a lot!!
Brian Isak
New Member
Correction, as you can gather from my post, i'm not looking to convert a manual to an automatic, i'm simply looking to properly install a replacement engine that was attached to a manual transmission to my Jeep which has an automatic. Sorry for the confusion, I typed this up fast!
I'm definitely not anything even close to being an expert, I just managed to get my TJ converted to the 32RH and due solely to several miracles it went well. I just got home will have to look at your post more closely tomorrow when I get a few minutes. The real expert on things like that is @mrblaine so I'd be looking forward more to his words of expertise and vast experience more than mine. 
Brian Isak
New Member
Absolutely! Thank you Jerry. Enjoy your evening!I'm definitely not anything even close to being an expert, I just managed to get my TJ converted to the 32RH and due solely to several miracles it went well. I just got home will have to look at your post more closely tomorrow when I get a few minutes. The real expert on things like that is @mrblaine so I'd be looking forward more to his words of expertise and vast experience more than mine.
Yes, you need to remove the pilot bearing and adapter bushing from the end of the crank. If measure the snout on the torque converter, you will discover that it will pilot perfectly in the end of the crank once the other bits are out of the way.
Second thing- Never, under any circumstances use the bellhousing bolts to draw up the trans to the block. If it will go, you can push the trans home by hand when it is lined up correctly. If you can't push it home by hand, then no amount of pressure will make it go, more pressure just fucks up more crap.
To help, take 2 bolts that are the correct thread as the bolts at 3 and 9 on the bellhousing about 3" long. Cut the heads off and screw them into the block. They will extend through the holes in the bellhousing and assist you with lining everything up correctly. Extended alignment pins if you will.
Brian Isak
New Member
I very much appreciate your time! I definitely gained a lot of experience with this project that I hope will help out with future repairs/projects. Now after I remove the pilot bearing and adapter bushing, am I good to go? Or are there any other modifications I need to do? What about the extended output shaft seal? Thank you again!
You can borrow a pilot bearing puller from many auto places, some people use wet paper towels or grease and use a dowel in the middle to drive it out pnuematically. If you have a drill bit and a small cold chisel it can be done carefully
The extended seal housing is used when you bolt up a manual transfer case to the back of the 32RH. The manual 231 has a shorter input shaft that will not reach the seal in the back of the 32RH so the extender is used to solve that problem.
Yes and since apparently I was not very clear, the hole in the end of the crankshaft is the exact correct size for the pilot on the end of the torque converter in the 32RH. If you run the 4.0 with the AX-15, NV3550, or the NSG 370, an adapter bushing to carry the pilot bearing will need to be installed WITH the pilot bearing. If you run a 4.0 with the later 42RLE, a much smaller bushing gets installed to adapt the pilot diameter of the 42RLE converter since it is smaller than the 32RH converter and it is not a bearing, just a bushing to compensate for the difference in diameters of the pilot on the two converters.
The correct term is hydraulically since the non compressibility of several items is being used to jack the bushing out. I have found them to be messy, somewhat ineffective, and not prone to high levels of success. They include, bread, wet paper towels, and grease along with very snug fitting dowels to fit the hole in the bushing.
The factor that predicts all of the results to one degree or another is how far the adapter bushing has been beat into the end of the crankshaft. If it has been beat all the way in until it makes contact, the only reliable methods involve drilling and or welding. I have a good pilot bearing puller but if the little fingers can't get behind the bushing due to it being against the end of the crank, it is useless.
I have had to drill and tap several and build a puller. The 100% foolproof method is to take a 1/2-20 nut, weld it over the hole in the bushing and then thread in a bolt that bottoms out against the end of the crank and jacks the bushing out.
I rented/borrowed (for free) the OEM Tools 27128 Blind Hole Puller set from Autozone which made quick work of removing the bearing & bushing in the flywheel.
That only works if there is a little bit of space at the end of the bushing for that lip on the end of the puller to grab.
That particular blind hole puller set doesn't need space at the end of the the bushing, it doesn't use a hook that would require that space hence its blind hole description hence its blind hole description. Tightening it with the ratchet wrench tightens it against the inside the bushing for a friction fit.
Brian Isak
New Member
Thanks for the suggestions. I think i'll grab that puller tonight and give it a shot! Weird question (again i'm new to Jeeps) but I do have the 231 T-case with the 32RH obviously. So does that mean the extended seal is already installed? Considering the trans was already bolted to this t-case, i'm assuming everything is good to go there. My plan is to simply remove the bearing and bushing, and re-install! I attached a pic of how my bearing/collar looks (not that it looks different from any other) but just I just want to make sure i'm on the right track. I really want to avoid any issues. I labeled the bearing and bushing and just want to make sure I have it right, as to what needs to be removed. Thanks again and sorry for the re-clarification.
Both the bearing and bushing need to be removed.
Yes you'll need the extended output shaft seal for your 32RH which can be found at https://www.quadratec.com/products/...WiTHxrPQGeb1UeF83t1iGIxpbuFmAihRoCFYQQAvD_BwE
Removing the old seal is easy, it easily pulls out. Seating the extended seal requires a BFH (BIG effing hammer) and something like a piece of scrap aluminum to place between the seal and the BFH to prevent damaging the seal while seating it. It took me a good minute or two with the BFH to get it fully seated, mine was a very tight fit.
Yes you'll need the extended output shaft seal for your 32RH which can be found at https://www.quadratec.com/products/...WiTHxrPQGeb1UeF83t1iGIxpbuFmAihRoCFYQQAvD_BwE
Removing the old seal is easy, it easily pulls out. Seating the extended seal requires a BFH (BIG effing hammer) and something like a piece of scrap aluminum to place between the seal and the BFH to prevent damaging the seal while seating it. It took me a good minute or two with the BFH to get it fully seated, mine was a very tight fit.
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