'98 Sahara build: "Staying the Course"

Squatch said:
Decided I needed to play with something that didn't involve rust, so I cleaned up the rear control arms, sanded them lightly, and then shot 'em with some self-etching primer. It was a nice break from corrosion. But then I decided to remove the gas tank from the skid. When I did, guess what was waiting for me? My old nemesis...rust. Lots and lots of thick, scale rust. I started chipping away at it, and actually broke through the skid in one section. Unacceptable. So now I either head back to Olympic 4X4 and pick up a clean OEM one, or I get an aftermarket OEM style one, or...I'd love a Rokmen skid, but being that I don't want to do a body lift at this point, I'd have to use 1/2" spacers to lower the skid. I dunno. Got a lot going on. In fact, 4 Wheel Parts called me today and left a message. I ordered stainless steel brake lines (the hard lines...full kit) from them. They asked me to call them in the morning. Couldn't figure out why, but now I think I know. I ordered it as a customer pick-up, but I forgot to do so. I have so many new parts being shipped to me that I just forgot that they weren't. Sheesh! I'll call them in the morning.
Here are a few pics. Nothing terribly exciting, but it's progress.
View attachment 44792 View attachment 44793 View attachment 44794 View attachment 44795
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Hey nice work @Squatch ! Is that primer from a rattle can?
 
KCsTJ said:
Hey nice work @Squatch ! Is that primer from a rattle can?
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Thanks. Yep, it's Rustoleum. I was hesitant to use a rattle can paint, but the allure of ease of use won me over. Dealing with all the clean-up after using my paint gun(s) is a pain, as is the mixing of the paint. I needed something I could just grab and use as the opportunities arose. So yes, I've used Rustoleum's Rusty Metal Primer, and their self-etching primer.
 
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glwood said:
General rule is you need the angled bracket with an adjustable track bar if you change the angle of the rear differential to accommodate an SYE and CV driveshaft (read: adjust the pinion angle).

2" of lift with no SYE would not require a bracket plus adj. track bar. Either would pretty much accomplish the same end for that size lift.
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Believe me, I know what you mean about searching for a thread. I try to remember, every time I see something I know I will want to look back at later, to click the 'watch thread' on the upper right. Later, even if I don't remember why I wanted to watch it, opening it up will usually jog my memory.

Good progress on the TJ, glad you could finally get some of the work done.
 
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glwood said:
Believe me, I know what you mean about searching for a thread. I try to remember, every time I see something I know I will want to look back at later, to click the 'watch thread' on the upper right. Later, even if I don't remember why I wanted to watch it, opening it up will usually jog my memory.

Good progress on the TJ, glad you could finally get some of the work done.
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I'll have to try that feature. Never have used it, before, but if it makes finding a post easier, then I'm all-in!
 
lowranger said:
Great job Squatch.....I've been following your thread from the beginning.
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Thanks for the support, buddy. I still have my eye on the prize, but the hurdles between me and it are more than I anticipated. Be that as it may, I am having the time of my life on this thing. One of the things that I am totally digging is the ability to find parts for these things. After dealing with early to mid-sixties Ramblers for a dozen years, or more, these TJs are a breeze!
 
Squatch said:
Thanks for the support, buddy. I still have my eye on the prize, but the hurdles between me and it are more than I anticipated. Be that as it may, I am having the time of my life on this thing. One of the things that I am totally digging is the ability to find parts for these things. After dealing with early to mid-sixties Ramblers for a dozen years, or more, these TJs are a breeze!
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I'm glad you are enjoying the ride....there is no time limit. :)
 
So, the last two days of my staycation ended up having very little to do with the TJ. Yesterday, I spent the entire day working on the son-in-law's '98 S10 pick-up. The brakes were failing, and it turned out that it needed everything. I saw that his tires were shot, as well. So, I did a full brake job (Centric rotors, drums, pads and shoes, plus a new hardware kit). I also had four new Toyo tires mounted and balanced (ordered tires from Tirecrawler.com, as usual). The final thing was the emergency brake pedal mechanism. Ratcheting mechanism was toast. Ordered a new OEM unit. So, new tires, full brake rebuild, and parking brake unit: $674.14 Considering Les Schwab quoted him $720 for one rotor and new pads on a Ford Ranger last year, I think he got off easy having the father-in-law finance and do the work.
He so owes me a pizza!
 
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Squatch said:
So, the last two days of my staycation ended up having very little to do with the TJ. Yesterday, I spent the entire day working on the son-in-law's '98 S10 pick-up. The brakes were failing, and it turned out that it needed everything. I saw that his tires were shot, as well. So, I did a full brake job (Centric rotors, drums, pads and shoes, plus a new hardware kit). I also had four new Toyo tires mounted and balanced (ordered tires from Tirecrawler.com, a usual). The final thing was the emergency brake pedal mechanism. Ratcheting mechanism was toast. Ordered a new OEM unit. So, new tires, full brake rebuild, and parking brake unit: $674.14 Considering Les Schwab quoted him $720 for one rotor and new pads on a Ford Ranger last year, I think he got off easy having the father-in-law finance and do the work.
He so owes me a pizza!
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For a year.
 
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I have a question regarding rattle can paints...Rustoleum, in this particular case. I sprayed my control arms and the inside area of my gas tank skid a few days ago, and I feel like it is still rather soft. I've left them out in the sun for three days, taking advantage of our 70 degree weather. How long should I expect to wait before it hardens? Weeks? Longer? Ever? o_O
 
Squatch said:
I have a question regarding rattle can paints...Rustoleum, in this particular case. I sprayed my control arms and the inside area of my gas tank skid a few days ago, and I feel like it is still rather soft. I've left them out in the sun for three days, taking advantage of our 70 degree weather. How long should I expect to wait before it hardens? Weeks? Longer? Ever? o_O
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I don't know if humidity, if that's a factor there, affects that paint drying...I used Rustoleum on my bumpers, and it dried pretty hard right away. I live in a very dry climate, though.
 
glwood said:
I don't know if humidity, if that's a factor there, affects that paint drying...I used Rustoleum on my bumpers, and it dried pretty hard right away. I live in a very dry climate, though.
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We've been hovering in the 60-65% range. I checked before painting. I'll just give it more time, I guess. Or maybe toss 'em in the oven. I've done that before when refurbishing some small bolt pattern Mopar rally wheels. :)
 
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Higher humidity areas will slow down the drying process. Also, multiple coats applied with shorter flash times between coats can trap solvents in the paint, so that could add to the slower cure times. The ball may be against you because of your wetter climate and mild temps sir. Not any fault of yours.
 
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So, 4 Wheel Parts contacted me to say that the stainless steel brake lines I ordered are actually no longer in stock in their Idaho warehouse. He said he'd have to order the lines directly from the manufacturer...Currie. What? Currie makes stainless steel hard brake lines? Anyway, I told him to go for it. Nothing else is on schedule with this thing, so it really won't matter. We'll see what happens...
 
Hey buddy, is this the look you are looking for with your wheels?
70c4d39c41eb6f5d2c08c07234855519.jpg
 
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