A Beginners Guide to Lifting Your Jeep Wrangler TJ

It was the first job I ever did on a car, apart from changing the oil. I had my two 11 year olds help. They couldn't do much, but they actually had some ideas that solved some problems along the way! LOL, "Are you smarter than a 5th grader?" Comes to mind. Anyhow, if you need a step by step write up, let me know. I've posted somewhere on the forum, but don't remember where...Not difficult but time consuming. Make sure you have everything you need beforehand. And X2 @Chris, no spring compressors.

Hello, sir. I could use that step by step write-up you speak of. Tried searching this forum for it, but when I search for things like "step" and "lift" I get 10 pages of thread topics with no luck finding that process. I've done just about everything to a Jeep other than a lift (crazy, but I've kept my TJ stock and only done mods to my CJ).
After crawling under the front and then quickly moving to the rear axle after pitman arm removal flashbacks, I was able to run thru all the goodies that might need addressing. The axle vent was hung up on a wiring harness so after dislodging that, I noticed some other simple things like brackets for brake lines and the e-brake that might need to be let loose.
Then I saw the track bar and control arms and began pondering which end would be best to disconnect.
At that point I decided I needed some advice rather than screw something up thru trial and error. If you could help me out, I'd appreciate it greatly.
 
Hello, sir. I could use that step by step write-up you speak of. Tried searching this forum for it, but when I search for things like "step" and "lift" I get 10 pages of thread topics with no luck finding that process. I've done just about everything to a Jeep other than a lift (crazy, but I've kept my TJ stock and only done mods to my CJ).
After crawling under the front and then quickly moving to the rear axle after pitman arm removal flashbacks, I was able to run thru all the goodies that might need addressing. The axle vent was hung up on a wiring harness so after dislodging that, I noticed some other simple things like brackets for brake lines and the e-brake that might need to be let loose.
Then I saw the track bar and control arms and began pondering which end would be best to disconnect.
At that point I decided I needed some advice rather than screw something up thru trial and error. If you could help me out, I'd appreciate it greatly.

This should get you most of the way. It’s the front only, but they’re essentially the same. Doesn’t include shocks, but that shouldn’t pose a problem for you. This is an old document.

1. Loosen wheel lug nuts on front wheels
2. Chock rear wheels
3. Lift Jeep at front differential by placing a rag over floor jack pad to protect the differential
4. Place jack stands under frame behind lower control arms
4. Lower floor jack until frame rests on jack stands but leavefloor jack under differential
5. Remove wheels
6. Raise floor jack under axle next to differential
7. Remove lower shock bolts
8. Loosen track bar at axle side
9. Loosen lower control arms
10. Remove sway bar links
11. Lower the floor jack slowly
12. Springs should come out
13. If not, move jack to C on opposite side and jack up. Opposite side spring should come out.
14. If not, see what’s binding and loosen or unbolt it.

1719469278643.png


Torque Specs (lb-ft)

Shocks Front (lower) 21
Shocks Rear (lower)74

Track Bar Front(@Axle)55
Track Bar Rear (@Axle)74

Sway Bar Front(lower)70
Sway Bar Rear (lower)40

Lower Control Arms Front (@Axle) 85
Lower Control Arms Rear (@Axle)130

Lug Nuts 85-110
 
This should get you most of the way. It’s the front only, but they’re essentially the same. Doesn’t include shocks, but that shouldn’t pose a problem for you. This is an old document.

1. Loosen wheel lug nuts on front wheels
2. Chock rear wheels
3. Lift Jeep at front differential by placing a rag over floor jack pad to protect the differential
4. Place jack stands under frame behind lower control arms
4. Lower floor jack until frame rests on jack stands but leavefloor jack under differential
5. Remove wheels
6. Raise floor jack under axle next to differential
7. Remove lower shock bolts
8. Loosen track bar at axle side
9. Loosen lower control arms
10. Remove sway bar links
11. Lower the floor jack slowly
12. Springs should come out
13. If not, move jack to C on opposite side and jack up. Opposite side spring should come out.
14. If not, see what’s binding and loosen or unbolt it.

View attachment 538231

Torque Specs (lb-ft)

Shocks Front (lower) 21
Shocks Rear (lower)74

Track Bar Front(@Axle)55
Track Bar Rear (@Axle)74

Sway Bar Front(lower)70
Sway Bar Rear (lower)40

Lower Control Arms Front (@Axle) 85
Lower Control Arms Rear (@Axle)130

Lug Nuts 85-110

This is excellent. Thank you very much! Yes, I've had to replace the shocks a few times over the years so that's old hat. Upon inspection last night I noticed both rear bump stops were deteriorated pretty bad so I'll need to order a set of those for each axle. That'll push the project back a few days.
 
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This is excellent. Thank you very much! Yes, I've had to replace the shocks a few times over the years so that's old hat. Upon inspection last night I noticed both rear bump stops were deteriorated pretty bad so I'll need to order a set of those for each axle. That'll push the project back a few days.

I also finally got ARB to shake the bushes and send a file with some info, albeit, specific to the OME kit I ordered.
 

Attachments

  • OMETJHKS_LK.pdf
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I also finally got ARB to shake the bushes and send a file with some info, albeit, specific to the OME kit I ordered.

Im sure its been said before, but One piece of advice is get some PB blaster on the rear upper shock bolts if you are replacing them. they tend to break off and its a pain to get them sorted out. i live in the Northeast and rust is always a problem. it added hours to my install.
 
Im sure its been said before, but One piece of advice is get some PB blaster on the rear upper shock bolts if you are replacing them. they tend to break off and its a pain to get them sorted out. i live in the Northeast and rust is always a problem. it added hours to my install.

I had to use it on the steering stabilizer bolts. And I'm sure Ives replaced that at least once. I gave it all a squirt today letting it soak until I get new bump stops in.