I agree. A hint, to better get at all those lower bolts it's best to take an additional 30 minutes of time and remove the fender. All bolts are easy access then.
A complete nightmare: shop rag left in intake
- Thread starter Marvin
- Start date
I agree. A hint, to better get at all those lower bolts it's best to take an additional 30 minutes of time and remove the fender. All bolts are easy access then.
Not sure if this helps, but your lifters move twice the speed of the block, so basically your crank turns once to every two times of the cam. So if it is a knock it will happen every revolution and will be slow, if it is a tick, it will happen twice to every revolution so will be fast. I know I said this confusingly, but a tick will be fast, and a knock will be slow at idle. A tick will make you angry, and a knock will make you hurt inside!
I'm guessing it has something to do with Cam, Cam bearing or lifter not pumping up. Is there a trick to getting a lifter to pump up?
I have always put mine in a bowl of whatever oil I was going to run in the engine, and then compressed each one a couple times. However, I've also read where that's a myth that it helps at all. (shrug) I still do it. Of course, yours is an already assembled engine. New push rods? Might check and see if one is a little shorter than the others. Bit of a long shot, but who knows...?
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Are you sure it's not the 'tother way around? Two crank revolutions per cam revolution? Four stroke engine.
Your lifters will pump up very quickly, if they are going to hold pressure. The tick you hear from them is the piston collapsing in the bucket when the pushrod tries to open the valve. After a couple cycles, they should fill with oil, and work normally. You don't have to do anything "special" to fill them ahead of time...but when I worked for GM at the plant where we made them, we always shipped them full of oil to the engine plants to avoid noisy start-up issues.
hehe! Embarrassing nice catch! Still the knock will be slow, and the tick will be fast. (I need to remember to go to bed when I am that tired. lol)
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No issues. You are correct though. Knock slow, tick fast. One is irritating and one has a pucker factor associated with it.
Well, you have a few options, a couple are expensive and one is not, but all will be a lot of work.
Option 1 - You could either replace the engine with a used or re-manufactured one.
Option 2 - If you know which cylinder is the culprit you could drop the oil pan, remove the rod cap, remove the cylinder head, push that piston through the top end, replace the wrist pin and the rings and then push it back inside. That may or may not be an easy task depending on how much of a ridge was wore in the cylinder by the old rings, nor is it the best option, only an option.
Whichever way you decide to go I wouldn't be driving the thing. A blown engine may be right around the corner.
Option 1 - You could either replace the engine with a used or re-manufactured one.
Option 2 - If you know which cylinder is the culprit you could drop the oil pan, remove the rod cap, remove the cylinder head, push that piston through the top end, replace the wrist pin and the rings and then push it back inside. That may or may not be an easy task depending on how much of a ridge was wore in the cylinder by the old rings, nor is it the best option, only an option.
Whichever way you decide to go I wouldn't be driving the thing. A blown engine may be right around the corner.
I fell right in line behind you on that one. Oops! :facepalm:
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