A potentially simpler approach to upgrading your TJ audio

Jamison C

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I know this topic has been beaten to death, but a thought occurred to me today. The whole point of this thread is to suggest an option based off of the limited room a TJ has. I’ve installed amps and aftermarket setups in cars and trucks where there was room for equipment that would remain unseen. That’s a little more difficult to achieve in a TJ where any extra space for other things is precious. If you’re like me and like a clean factory appearance, with say, the stock radio, this is why this thread is here. It seems asinine, I know. But I don’t think it would hurt to explore.

To start, I’m an audiophile, but not in a stereo or electronics enthusiast kind of way. As a musician and producer, being and audiophile goes hand in hand. I like the music in my car to be as crisp and clear as it would be if I were sitting in the studio mixing it.

That said, I took a cruise in my mom’s Chrysler town and country and was pleasantly surprised at how clear, yet bassy, the stock stereo system was. Take a little bit of the bass out of the main system and send some of it to a subwoofer, and you would have an extremely clear sounding system on a simple stock setup.

Now in the audio world, it’s common knowledge that the power the OEM head unit delivers is paired very specifically with the speakers the factory installs. Aftermarket speakers will not sound that good with a factory radio, and typically, an aftermarket head unit/amp does not deliver the proper power or impedance that the factory speakers need to function optimally. They are finely tuned to each other with little-to-no room for adjustment. An example of this is my old 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix with the Bose premium audio.

At the time, there were few factory systems that delivered such clarity. Before I sent the car to the wreckers, I pulled the speakers hoping to use them in the future. I called Bose and got the specs for every speaker, and bought and amp that would fall within those specs in terms of deliverable power. Long story short, I was very disappointed in the results. I could not replicate the fine tuning that the original Bose amp was set to to deliver.

So back to the factory Chrysler setup. There are a lot of variables at play regarding sound quality. For instance, my mom’s van has 5 1/4s in the dash, and 6x9s in the doors and the rear. 6x9s are an excellent all-range speaker that can deliver clarity in all three spectrums; treble, mid, and bass. Her van is also much better insulated than any TJ would be. However I just took a ride in a TJ today with full floor insulation added, the ACC cutpile carpet, and a twill Bestop NX frameless soft top. I was amazed at how quiet and “padded” the cab sounded, which would make a great starting point for stereo.

So I got to thinking, we all have our own versions of speaker and stereo setups, so why not try to upgrade in terms of OEM? I did some digging into different years and models of any Chrysler vehicle made, including Dodge and Jeep. Many had the same square radios that came in 97-02 wranglers, and the oval-face radios that came in 03-06 wranglers. One of the first upgrades a TJ enthusiast would do in terms of audio is upgrade the sound bar speakers from 5 1/4” to 6.5” speakers, and upgrade the dash speakers from 4x6” (a highly avoided size in the aftermarket audio world) to a round 5 1/4” speaker.

In terms of subwoofers, an upgrade is definitely needed to carry the lower end bass and punch. The Kicker 6 3/4” shallow-sub I now have installed in the middle console is more than enough for punch, but a subwoofer is not meant to carry ALL of the bass frequencies. I listen to classic rock and hard rock, and am often disappointed in the sound, because my speakers have not been bassy enough, and I’ve had to send all of the bass to my sub. Even if you’re running two 12”s, sending ALL of your bass to a subwoofer will muddle the tone, as it is trying to carry the entire bass line and punch all at once. This kind of setup is better for hip hop/rap/electronic because the music is produced in a way where the bass lines are integrated WITH the punch. What I would like from a system is four speakers that can carry a moderate bass line, and a subwoofer that only has to carry the very low end frequencies of said bass line as well as the punch from the kick. The low end bass and punch are very similar in frequency, and blend through a sub much better than if you sent ALL bass through it.

Jeep did not come with “premium sound” like other Chrysler vehicles did. Essentially, it’s a rolling barn with a tarp stretched over it, why waste the money in a vehicle that isn’t considered luxury? Jeep eventually added THEIR version of premium sound. This was a 7-speaker system and factory console sub; added to make up for lack of clarity in prior years. Spoiler alert, it still sucked as it was no where near on par with other Chrysler vehicles. I’ve been in Rams, Sebrings, Durangos, 300s. They all had way better OEM sound than my Jeep did when I bought it stock.

My conclusion to this that maybe before spending money on an aftermarket head unit and speakers, source some 5 1/4” and 6.5” premium Chrysler speakers (found in anything but a Wrangler and Cherokee) from a junkyard, specific to either the square or oval radios that came in our TJs, and seeing how they sound. Personally, I’ve always been disappointed with the simple aftermarket head unit and 4-speaker upgrades. Typically the speakers are fine, but a small head unit is capable of delivering MAYBE 50w per channel. They don’t deliver enough power for my taste or needs and therefore I’m always using amps to deliver said power. OEM radios are big, and deliver a surprisingly high amount of power, but again, they’re very specific to the speakers they are driving.

I’m always thinking outside of the box on how to do things efficiently, and effectively. So before someone goes on about how this is a waste of time, and that a TJ can only sound so good, keep your close-minded comments to yourself. My current setup with the Kicker 6.75” Comp RT Subwoofer, Kicker PX2001 200w Mono Amplifier, and OEM radio kicks ass, and I plan on salvaging some junkyard speakers to see if I can make that setup even better. If I could move a little high-end bass from my sub and run it through my speakers for a clearer, more obvious bass line, it would make a world of difference in the quality.

Worried about Bluetooth not being available with the OEM head unit? I have this little gizmo here. The audio and call quality is crystal clear and automatically connects to my phone when powered on. It also has a USB port that you can specifically charge your phone on. Need and RCA adapter to connect your subwoofer amp to your factory radio? Look no further. Worried about cutting and splicing your factory harness? These little guys make splicing in an RCA adapter clean, and reversible, in seconds.

Thanks for reading! I will update when I get a chance to throw some Sebring or Ram speakers into my TJ 🙂 Let the discussion commence.

Here’s a picture of my subwoofer setup. Hidden neatly under the seat.
66884293-369E-4E8A-AB7C-18E1029F8626.jpeg
 
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So that's what a clean interior looks like... Nice read. I plan to upgrade my stuff at some point this winter. Not an audiophile but like good clear music with decent bass.
 
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From what I've seen, there's nothing special about the OEM speakers paired with most OEM head units. The gotcha is that they tend to use goofy resistances to get more volume out of weak systems, whereas the aftermarket has to stick to standardized specs for compatibility. Match the ohms, and any aftermarket speaker should sound as good or better than the OEM it replaced.

External amps are another matter, though. Those can be tricky to separate out from the head unit.

So, to directly address the OP, scavenging premium speakers from other Chryslers may or may not work, depending on whether their system was set up for the same resistance.

p.s. Audiophile and Bose should not be mentioned in close proximity to each other. "No highs, no lows, must be Bose." They're actually perfectly suited to the car environment, where road noise tends to mask their weak areas.
 
My approach was to use absolutely no factory items, and use nothing that people normally do, like coaxials in the dash, etc.
 
I should clarify something that I’ll also update in the thread.

The whole point of this post was suggesting an option based off of the limited room a TJ has. I’ve installed amps and aftermarket setups in cars and trucks where there was room for equipment that would remain unseen. That’s a little more difficult to achieve in a TJ. My extra space is taken by other things like recovery gear, camping gear etc.

If you’re like me and like a clean factory appearance, with say, the stock radio, this is why I suggested this idea in the first place.

It seems asinine, I know. But I don’t think it would hurt to explore.
 
Did you have to fabricate a new mount for the sub to install it in the center console?

I'm starting to look at the stereo system now so this is good timing.
 
I've never seen any factory audio equipment compete with mid range aftermarket audio. I'm not an audio pro but I've installed setups in at least 10 different vehicles 2 being Jeeps. My personal opinion is skip the sub in a jeep if you didn't have one already and run a good setup of marine equipment, such as a quality ($200-$300) amp and good marine speakers ( 4x 6.5's) (JL audio marines are hard to beat). The stock headunit sucks with any speakers, you will see a great improvement in clarity by just swapping out the stock headunit.
 
So your "ideas" as an audiophile are to get old, used components of unknown condition🚽 or to replace them with what others have been posting here for years? 🤔
Am I missing something here?🤯
 
Reformed basshead here.

Instead of using an aftermarket amplifier for the speakers, I used a higher wattage single DIN head unit. Most aftermarket head units only do 22W RMS per channel, due to limitations of the stock wiring.

Units like this one
https://www.sony.com/electronics/marine/mex-m100btprovide 40 watts RMS per channel, which takes the place of a small 4 channel amplifier. It also has the benefit of being a marine stereo, so if the top is left off and it rains, no issues occur.

I hid the subwoofer amplifier (200 watts RMS at 4 ohms) behind my instrument cluster. I'll see if I can find the photo. I used the same console sub.

Now, this setup comes nowhere near my 3 kW setup (2 - 15" subs) in my other car, but it certainly sounds a lot better than stock and can provide considerable volume.

Tuning with pink noise and a calibrated microphone made it even better. The only real weaknesses it has are below the 125 Hz (bass frequencies) and the 16 kHz band. (Meaning theoretically I should add tweeters, midbass drivers and a larger sub to perfect it.)

As an aside, always compare RMS ratings on equipment. Peak ratings are for the most part meaningless, and are used to advertise large numbers. RMS ratings are used to compare the maximum continuous power output of the component. Much like how cars are rated in maximum continuous torque, not peak torque. Theoretically you could get ~2x the instantaneous torque by redlining the engine and dropping the clutch, but realistically that is infeasible for most uses of a car, so engines are rated in maximum continuous torque.
 
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I guess it's like everything, it depends on the use. I want to be able to take to top off and drive. I don't need to blast out everyone at a light or wake up the animals if I go out of the city.

I want decent sound but don't want to start adding components that run $200 a set. $250 for a receiver, $250 for speakers, $200 for a sub, $200 for an amp, etc., etc. it adds up. I don't want a flashing dash either because lights in my face at night don't impress me.

I was thinking of 4 Polk 5-1/4" DB 522 speakers with front pods and packing in the sound bar, or maybe DB461P 4x6" speakers in front and DB 652 6.5" speakers in the bar. Then work my way backwards to find a marine stereo with a removable face to drive them.

Maybe that's backwards thinking and I should be going the other direction. All I know is my neighbor will be replacing his upgraded 2-Din entertainment center with GPS, because he got caught in the rain one day with the top off and it got wet enough to make it act funny. So I'm starting off going the marine route.
 
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I DO like the idea of using "stock-like" components, especially the radio head unit, in a vehicle like the TJ, due to their "theft repellent" qualities, LOL. I mean - what desperate meth-head is gonna BOTHER with trying to gank out a stock Chrysler stereo unit from a TJ - something worth ~$3.00 at your average pawn shop? Having said that (and slightly off-topic) MY stock single disc CD player in my 2004 TJ has ALWAYS been a "CD Eater" - it'll TAKE your CD, factory or burned; it'll PLAY said CD, factory or burned; then it decides that it likes said CD for breakfast, lunch & dinner, LOL. I spent ~2 hours trying to retrieve the LAST CD that I loaded in my OEM unit from within its bowels; reluctant to buy ANOTHER factory OEM AM/FM/CD player for fear of the same outcome...
 
Maybe that's backwards thinking and I should be going the other direction. All I know is my neighbor will be replacing his upgraded 2-Din entertainment center with GPS, because he got caught in the rain one day with the top off and it got wet enough to make it act funny. So I'm starting off going the marine route.

Marine stuff is an excellent choice if you have any chance of moisture.

It doesn't matter if you get the speakers first or the head unit first. It won't sound it's best until you have both. An amp in the middle of that would be even better.

Audiophile? In the TJ you will always be limited by the speaker placement, lack of properly sized enclosures, and more reflections than a house of mirrors, and seating position relative to speakers, etc. Everything done to attempt to correct this will be a compromise.

Clear, well balanced sound? Yeah - that's attainable in any car with some decent components and adjustable crossovers.
 
In my case, I'm ~6'3" (~190 cm) and my height is in my upper body. If my legs matched my upper body I'd be 6'6" (198 cm) or taller. So when I sit upright I hit my head on almost any car roof. That's why I drove SUVs and minivans were my hair would only touch with the sunroofs. So the passenger side sound bar speaker is really close to my head. I should check to see if my head will hit the roll bar when I sit completely upright.

It makes balancing the system even more difficult.
 
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What kind of sound quality loss would you expect to get by adding an amp to a factory head unit that doesn't have low level connections? I like the idea of using a factory head unit, but you lose a lot of fine tuning capability unless you are also adding crossovers/equalizers to the mix.
 
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What kind of sound quality loss would you expect to get by adding an amp to a factory head unit that doesn't have low level connections? I like the idea of using a factory head unit, but you lose a lot of fine tuning capability unless you are also adding crossovers/equalizers to the mix.
If you use an amplifier that has line level inputs, it's nearly as good as pre-amplifier signal. For a subwoofer amplifier, the sound will be indistinguishable if properly set up. Most noise or signal changes in amplifiers occur at the highest frequencies. Use of a line level converter separately from the amplifier (a set of resistors) can also be used but it may add a small (likely non-noticeable) amount of noise. Again, probably indistinguishable at low frequencies.
 
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What kind of sound quality loss would you expect to get by adding an amp to a factory head unit that doesn't have low level connections? I like the idea of using a factory head unit, but you lose a lot of fine tuning capability unless you are also adding crossovers/equalizers to the mix.

That's what I never liked about the idea of keeping a factory Head Unit. Yes they look simple and factory but if I'm gonna blow a grand on amp and speakers I sure as hell want to be able to easily tune them.

The other thing is yes an aftermarket unit has fancy lights and what not but it's easy to set the color to white and turn the dimmer on and whalaaa no longer blinding at night. The Head Unit is the cheapest part of the equation IMO.
 
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...Now in the audio world, it’s common knowledge that the power the OEM head unit delivers is paired very specifically with the speakers the factory installs. Aftermarket speakers will not sound that good with a factory radio, and typically, an aftermarket head unit/amp does not deliver the proper power or impedance that the factory speakers need to function optimally
That aftermarket speakers will not sound "that good" with the standard head unit it complete malarky. Complete. The right aftermarket speakers will make a very dramatic and significant improvement in sound quality and, in fact, are more responsible for perceived sound quality than the head unit is. Speakers are not black magic, just choosing the right speaker impedance and, especially, the right Sensitivity rating will give a noticeable improvement. For example Polk's DB series have the correct impedance and most importantly, the correct sensitivity, to make a very significant improvement in sound over the decidedly crappy speakers the factory installed.

If you don't know how to select speakers it's very easy to choose the wrong speaker and it will sound like crap. Even if its a name brand with superb quality. More important to the sound is that it matches the power output of the amplifier via the speaker's Sensitivity rating (over a 90 dB Sensitivity rating is what you want for an OE Jeep audio system) and that it has the correct impedance. It's easy to select a great sounding speaker if you know what the specifications mean and choose what is appropriate.

I have a solid education in audio and electronics and worked in the industry for nearly 50 years, many with a large venue audio specialty firm that did audio systems for theaters, coliseums, sports arenas, and concert halls. Amplifiers are important but not as important as the speakers are. I can make a mediocre amplifier sound great with the right speakers and a great amplifier sound terrible with the wrong choice of speakers.

P.S. My Polk DB speakers made a very nice/significant and easily noticeable improvement in sound connected to my OE factory head unit.
 
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I know this topic has been beaten to death, but a thought occurred to me today. The whole point of this thread is to suggest an option based off of the limited room a TJ has. I’ve installed amps and aftermarket setups in cars and trucks where there was room for equipment that would remain unseen. That’s a little more difficult to achieve in a TJ where any extra space for other things is precious. If you’re like me and like a clean factory appearance, with say, the stock radio, this is why this thread is here. It seems asinine, I know. But I don’t think it would hurt to explore.

To start, I’m an audiophile, but not in a stereo or electronics enthusiast kind of way. As a musician and producer, being and audiophile goes hand in hand. I like the music in my car to be as crisp and clear as it would be if I were sitting in the studio mixing it.

That said, I took a cruise in my mom’s Chrysler town and country and was pleasantly surprised at how clear, yet bassy, the stock stereo system was. Take a little bit of the bass out of the main system and send some of it to a subwoofer, and you would have an extremely clear sounding system on a simple stock setup.

Now in the audio world, it’s common knowledge that the power the OEM head unit delivers is paired very specifically with the speakers the factory installs. Aftermarket speakers will not sound that good with a factory radio, and typically, an aftermarket head unit/amp does not deliver the proper power or impedance that the factory speakers need to function optimally. They are finely tuned to each other with little-to-no room for adjustment. An example of this is my old 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix with the Bose premium audio.

At the time, there were few factory systems that delivered such clarity. Before I sent the car to the wreckers, I pulled the speakers hoping to use them in the future. I called Bose and got the specs for every speaker, and bought and amp that would fall within those specs in terms of deliverable power. Long story short, I was very disappointed in the results. I could not replicate the fine tuning that the original Bose amp was set to to deliver.

So back to the factory Chrysler setup. There are a lot of variables at play regarding sound quality. For instance, my mom’s van has 5 1/4s in the dash, and 6x9s in the doors and the rear. 6x9s are an excellent all-range speaker that can deliver clarity in all three spectrums; treble, mid, and bass. Her van is also much better insulated than any TJ would be. However I just took a ride in a TJ today with full floor insulation added, the ACC cutpile carpet, and a twill Bestop NX frameless soft top. I was amazed at how quiet and “padded” the cab sounded, which would make a great starting point for stereo.

So I got to thinking, we all have our own versions of speaker and stereo setups, so why not try to upgrade in terms of OEM? I did some digging into different years and models of any Chrysler vehicle made, including Dodge and Jeep. Many had the same square radios that came in 97-02 wranglers, and the oval-face radios that came in 03-06 wranglers. One of the first upgrades a TJ enthusiast would do in terms of audio is upgrade the sound bar speakers from 5 1/4” to 6.5” speakers, and upgrade the dash speakers from 4x6” (a highly avoided size in the aftermarket audio world) to a round 5 1/4” speaker.

In terms of subwoofers, an upgrade is definitely needed to carry the lower end bass and punch. The Kicker 6 3/4” shallow-sub I now have installed in the middle console is more than enough for punch, but a subwoofer is not meant to carry ALL of the bass frequencies. I listen to classic rock and hard rock, and am often disappointed in the sound, because my speakers have not been bassy enough, and I’ve had to send all of the bass to my sub. Even if you’re running two 12”s, sending ALL of your bass to a subwoofer will muddle the tone, as it is trying to carry the entire bass line and punch all at once. This kind of setup is better for hip hop/rap/electronic because the music is produced in a way where the bass lines are integrated WITH the punch. What I would like from a system is four speakers that can carry a moderate bass line, and a subwoofer that only has to carry the very low end frequencies of said bass line as well as the punch from the kick. The low end bass and punch are very similar in frequency, and blend through a sub much better than if you sent ALL bass through it.

Jeep did not come with “premium sound” like other Chrysler vehicles did. Essentially, it’s a rolling barn with a tarp stretched over it, why waste the money in a vehicle that isn’t considered luxury? Jeep eventually added THEIR version of premium sound. This was a 7-speaker system and factory console sub; added to make up for lack of clarity in prior years. Spoiler alert, it still sucked as it was no where near on par with other Chrysler vehicles. I’ve been in Rams, Sebrings, Durangos, 300s. They all had way better OEM sound than my Jeep did when I bought it stock.

My conclusion to this that maybe before spending money on an aftermarket head unit and speakers, source some 5 1/4” and 6.5” premium Chrysler speakers (found in anything but a Wrangler and Cherokee) from a junkyard, specific to either the square or oval radios that came in our TJs, and seeing how they sound. Personally, I’ve always been disappointed with the simple aftermarket head unit and 4-speaker upgrades. Typically the speakers are fine, but a small head unit is capable of delivering MAYBE 50w per channel. They don’t deliver enough power for my taste or needs and therefore I’m always using amps to deliver said power. OEM radios are big, and deliver a surprisingly high amount of power, but again, they’re very specific to the speakers they are driving.

I’m always thinking outside of the box on how to do things efficiently, and effectively. So before someone goes on about how this is a waste of time, and that a TJ can only sound so good, keep your close-minded comments to yourself. My current setup with the Kicker 6.75” Comp RT Subwoofer, Kicker PX2001 200w Mono Amplifier, and OEM radio kicks ass, and I plan on salvaging some junkyard speakers to see if I can make that setup even better. If I could move a little high-end bass from my sub and run it through my speakers for a clearer, more obvious bass line, it would make a world of difference in the quality.

Worried about Bluetooth not being available with the OEM head unit? I have this little gizmo here. The audio and call quality is crystal clear and automatically connects to my phone when powered on. It also has a USB port that you can specifically charge your phone on. Need and RCA adapter to connect your subwoofer amp to your factory radio? Look no further. Worried about cutting and splicing your factory harness? These little guys make splicing in an RCA adapter clean, and reversible, in seconds.

Thanks for reading! I will update when I get a chance to throw some Sebring or Ram speakers into my TJ 🙂 Let the discussion commence.

Here’s a picture of my subwoofer setup. Hidden neatly under the seat.
View attachment 124598

One of the best audio upgrades I did in the Wrangler was relocating the tweeters to the a-pillars. A forum member, @cliffish , used these ones for $20 and had a great experience.

I had custom mounts made for my Helix tweeters, and it sounds amazing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HWJTIBE/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
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