The list of accessory items I wanted to install began to grow so I explored various options for switches, relays and power blocks.
My goals
Fortunately my 2000 4.0 Sport has been largely unmolested so with the exception of rock lights and an aftermarket radio, there was very little done by the PO. I had a fairly blank canvas. That said, the wiring for the rock lights was a mess and would need to be revised once everything was completed.
My first solution was to modify the existing stock switch blank to accommodate additional switches. There are tons of options here. I completed the DIY dual switch bank mod which eliminated the stock ash tray and increased switch capacity from three to six. Purchased a bunch of OE style switches, and later a different brand of switches and quickly realized this wasn't going to accomplish my needs. While the look was OE, the complexity of wiring and relays was more than I wanted to decipher so I abandoned this idea.
Solution two was to use something like the S-Pod switch panel. It wouldn't look OE, but it could very much ease the installation process and all the relays, power input/output are bundled in a single control unit and it is closer to plug-n-play than building the whole thing myself. However, the price of the S-Pod was more than I wanted to dedicate to this project so I purchased a more entry level switch panel with a control box that is prewired with all the relays. The NiRider Universal 6 Gang Switch Panel. I found a few issues with this unit.. Ground needs to be connected local to the accessory, not to the controller where the power is connected so there would be more wires terminating here and there. The size of unit made it challenging to install cleanly. Once power is connected via a barrel crimp, it's semi-permanent. The connections coming from the controller are too short to cut and splice again should you want to change something. If I wanted the ability to change something in the future, I would have add extra wire at initial install to accommodate future splicing. For testing I did a temporary install, but ultimately I returned this unit. Note.. Auxbeam makes a 6 gang switch panel, similar to the NiRider but I have no idea if they come from the same factory and get rebranded (check here for a comparison of the various switch kits from Auxbeam)..
Enter the Auxbeam 8 Gang Led Switch Panel kit. https://auxbeam.com/collections/switche-panels
Forum member @jscherb had done a full review of this very unit sent to him by Auxbeam (posted on expedition portal forum), and offered to send me the unused kit. Many thanks. He did a great job with install details; definitely worth a look at his post if you have interest in this unit.
Initial impression, and comparison to the NiRider kit I had, is that this kit is not only far more complete, but build quality is far superior. The Auxbeam kit includes more bits than are actually needed to complete the install. Mounting brackets for the controller and switch panel are heavy gauge steel. The controller and the switch panel are both milled from solid aluminum. The controller makes use of solid state relays which improves dust/dirt resistance and limits moving parts. Auxbeam claims the controller is waterproof but offers no specs on that. I had more than a dozen zip ties left over. Can't have too many zip ties.
Auxbeam provides ample wire length to allow some versatility in mounting locations for the controller. I opted to mount the controller on the grill support above the battery.
Although each of the eight circuits have dedicated inline mini fuses in the controller (2 x 5, 10, 20 & 30 amps with a few extra fuses mounted on the backside of the controller’s cover, along with the a fuse tweezer tool) Auxbeam includes a 100 amp master resettable circuit breaker which I mounted on the back side of the controller mounting bracket. Once installed I had issue with getting power output and later realized (after a bit of troubleshooting) I had the circuit breakers protective cover on backwards (see below) and it was putting just enough pressure on the reset button to break the circuit. True Darwin moment..
All wires are covered with expandable mesh with heat shrink for protection. There was more than enough length in the harness that goes from the controller to the switch panel. I routed through the firewall at the drivers side and bundled the excess harness under the front of the center console.
The switch panel consists of eight backlit membrane switches, illuminated in cool blue.. a close match to the blue in the HVAC controls just above in the center stack. I mounted the switch panel on the knee bolster positioned just above the passenger airbag override. I chose to wire the switch panel backlight to the dash lights picking up power at the back of the HVAC controller. When dash lights are turned on the switch panel backlight illuminates at maximum intensity. With no labels on the switches, the backlight was way too bright. A manual dimmer option drops the intensity three levels, but once switch labels were applied the intensity was reduced enough that the dimming isn’t really needed. That said, I mounted a momentary switch on the backside of the steering column trim, right beside the headlight controller so it’s super easy to tap the button to dim the backlight at the same time I pull the headlight controller.
Aside from not being an OE look, this kit exceeded all expectations and met my other requirements. There are a few updated versions of this kit including bluetooth control of all the switches as well as tremendous control of panel color and brightness. I don't see the need for the BT interface, but the updated kit also includes auto-dimming based on ambient light level at the switch panel.. this I wish I had, but it certainly isn't necessary. I did reach out to Auxbeam for clarification on wiring and sad to say, they weren't very helpful because I couldn't verify I had made the original purchase. They also declined my request to purchase a second set of switch labels.
I'm not using the DIY Dual Switch Panel setup. If someone wants it for the price of shipping, message me. I think it should fit in a medium flat rate box. Not sure how many switches I have left and I used the voltage display elsewhere, but what I have is enough to get you started. Happy to PIF it in return for @jscherb's generosity in sharing this kit with me.
My goals
- avoid the potential rats nest of wires,
- have a way to keep track of all the accessory components,
- maintain the ability to change over time and
- have an easy install.
- Maintain an OE look
Fortunately my 2000 4.0 Sport has been largely unmolested so with the exception of rock lights and an aftermarket radio, there was very little done by the PO. I had a fairly blank canvas. That said, the wiring for the rock lights was a mess and would need to be revised once everything was completed.
My first solution was to modify the existing stock switch blank to accommodate additional switches. There are tons of options here. I completed the DIY dual switch bank mod which eliminated the stock ash tray and increased switch capacity from three to six. Purchased a bunch of OE style switches, and later a different brand of switches and quickly realized this wasn't going to accomplish my needs. While the look was OE, the complexity of wiring and relays was more than I wanted to decipher so I abandoned this idea.
Solution two was to use something like the S-Pod switch panel. It wouldn't look OE, but it could very much ease the installation process and all the relays, power input/output are bundled in a single control unit and it is closer to plug-n-play than building the whole thing myself. However, the price of the S-Pod was more than I wanted to dedicate to this project so I purchased a more entry level switch panel with a control box that is prewired with all the relays. The NiRider Universal 6 Gang Switch Panel. I found a few issues with this unit.. Ground needs to be connected local to the accessory, not to the controller where the power is connected so there would be more wires terminating here and there. The size of unit made it challenging to install cleanly. Once power is connected via a barrel crimp, it's semi-permanent. The connections coming from the controller are too short to cut and splice again should you want to change something. If I wanted the ability to change something in the future, I would have add extra wire at initial install to accommodate future splicing. For testing I did a temporary install, but ultimately I returned this unit. Note.. Auxbeam makes a 6 gang switch panel, similar to the NiRider but I have no idea if they come from the same factory and get rebranded (check here for a comparison of the various switch kits from Auxbeam)..
Enter the Auxbeam 8 Gang Led Switch Panel kit. https://auxbeam.com/collections/switche-panels
Forum member @jscherb had done a full review of this very unit sent to him by Auxbeam (posted on expedition portal forum), and offered to send me the unused kit. Many thanks. He did a great job with install details; definitely worth a look at his post if you have interest in this unit.
Initial impression, and comparison to the NiRider kit I had, is that this kit is not only far more complete, but build quality is far superior. The Auxbeam kit includes more bits than are actually needed to complete the install. Mounting brackets for the controller and switch panel are heavy gauge steel. The controller and the switch panel are both milled from solid aluminum. The controller makes use of solid state relays which improves dust/dirt resistance and limits moving parts. Auxbeam claims the controller is waterproof but offers no specs on that. I had more than a dozen zip ties left over. Can't have too many zip ties.
Auxbeam provides ample wire length to allow some versatility in mounting locations for the controller. I opted to mount the controller on the grill support above the battery.
All wires are covered with expandable mesh with heat shrink for protection. There was more than enough length in the harness that goes from the controller to the switch panel. I routed through the firewall at the drivers side and bundled the excess harness under the front of the center console.
The switch panel consists of eight backlit membrane switches, illuminated in cool blue.. a close match to the blue in the HVAC controls just above in the center stack. I mounted the switch panel on the knee bolster positioned just above the passenger airbag override. I chose to wire the switch panel backlight to the dash lights picking up power at the back of the HVAC controller. When dash lights are turned on the switch panel backlight illuminates at maximum intensity. With no labels on the switches, the backlight was way too bright. A manual dimmer option drops the intensity three levels, but once switch labels were applied the intensity was reduced enough that the dimming isn’t really needed. That said, I mounted a momentary switch on the backside of the steering column trim, right beside the headlight controller so it’s super easy to tap the button to dim the backlight at the same time I pull the headlight controller.
Switch panel mounted with test label
Momentary switch mounted under steering column trim
Final install of switch panel, illuminated at max brightness
Momentary switch mounted under steering column trim
Final install of switch panel, illuminated at max brightness
Aside from not being an OE look, this kit exceeded all expectations and met my other requirements. There are a few updated versions of this kit including bluetooth control of all the switches as well as tremendous control of panel color and brightness. I don't see the need for the BT interface, but the updated kit also includes auto-dimming based on ambient light level at the switch panel.. this I wish I had, but it certainly isn't necessary. I did reach out to Auxbeam for clarification on wiring and sad to say, they weren't very helpful because I couldn't verify I had made the original purchase. They also declined my request to purchase a second set of switch labels.
I'm not using the DIY Dual Switch Panel setup. If someone wants it for the price of shipping, message me. I think it should fit in a medium flat rate box. Not sure how many switches I have left and I used the voltage display elsewhere, but what I have is enough to get you started. Happy to PIF it in return for @jscherb's generosity in sharing this kit with me.
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