Adding Accessory Switches: Auxbeam 8 Gang Switch vs NiRider 6 Gang Switch vs DIY Dual Switch Panel Mod

MikekiM

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East of Montauk, NY
The list of accessory items I wanted to install began to grow so I explored various options for switches, relays and power blocks.
My goals
  1. avoid the potential rats nest of wires,
  2. have a way to keep track of all the accessory components,
  3. maintain the ability to change over time and
  4. have an easy install.
  5. Maintain an OE look

Fortunately my 2000 4.0 Sport has been largely unmolested so with the exception of rock lights and an aftermarket radio, there was very little done by the PO. I had a fairly blank canvas. That said, the wiring for the rock lights was a mess and would need to be revised once everything was completed.

My first solution was to modify the existing stock switch blank to accommodate additional switches. There are tons of options here. I completed the DIY dual switch bank mod which eliminated the stock ash tray and increased switch capacity from three to six. Purchased a bunch of OE style switches, and later a different brand of switches and quickly realized this wasn't going to accomplish my needs. While the look was OE, the complexity of wiring and relays was more than I wanted to decipher so I abandoned this idea.

2021-12-17 07.28.18-4.jpg

Solution two was to use something like the S-Pod switch panel. It wouldn't look OE, but it could very much ease the installation process and all the relays, power input/output are bundled in a single control unit and it is closer to plug-n-play than building the whole thing myself. However, the price of the S-Pod was more than I wanted to dedicate to this project so I purchased a more entry level switch panel with a control box that is prewired with all the relays. The NiRider Universal 6 Gang Switch Panel. I found a few issues with this unit.. Ground needs to be connected local to the accessory, not to the controller where the power is connected so there would be more wires terminating here and there. The size of unit made it challenging to install cleanly. Once power is connected via a barrel crimp, it's semi-permanent. The connections coming from the controller are too short to cut and splice again should you want to change something. If I wanted the ability to change something in the future, I would have add extra wire at initial install to accommodate future splicing. For testing I did a temporary install, but ultimately I returned this unit. Note.. Auxbeam makes a 6 gang switch panel, similar to the NiRider but I have no idea if they come from the same factory and get rebranded (check here for a comparison of the various switch kits from Auxbeam)..

2022-01-06 TJ NiRider Switch Panel Install 07.jpg

2022-01-06 TJ NiRider Switch Panel Install 01.jpg

2022-01-06 TJ NiRider Switch Panel Install 03.jpg

2022-01-06 TJ NiRider Switch Panel Install 05.jpg

Enter the Auxbeam 8 Gang Led Switch Panel kit. https://auxbeam.com/collections/switche-panels

Forum member @jscherb had done a full review of this very unit sent to him by Auxbeam (posted on expedition portal forum), and offered to send me the unused kit. Many thanks. He did a great job with install details; definitely worth a look at his post if you have interest in this unit.

Image courtesy of @jscherb
SwitchPanelComponents_zpsoygpx7hh (1) copy.jpg

Image courtesy of @jscherb
SwitchPanelPowerWiring_zpsmbli1xxl copy.jpg

Initial impression, and comparison to the NiRider kit I had, is that this kit is not only far more complete, but build quality is far superior. The Auxbeam kit includes more bits than are actually needed to complete the install. Mounting brackets for the controller and switch panel are heavy gauge steel. The controller and the switch panel are both milled from solid aluminum. The controller makes use of solid state relays which improves dust/dirt resistance and limits moving parts. Auxbeam claims the controller is waterproof but offers no specs on that. I had more than a dozen zip ties left over. Can't have too many zip ties.

Auxbeam provides ample wire length to allow some versatility in mounting locations for the controller. I opted to mount the controller on the grill support above the battery.

2022-02-20 TJ Auxbean Switch Install 58.jpg

Although each of the eight circuits have dedicated inline mini fuses in the controller (2 x 5, 10, 20 & 30 amps with a few extra fuses mounted on the backside of the controller’s cover, along with the a fuse tweezer tool) Auxbeam includes a 100 amp master resettable circuit breaker which I mounted on the back side of the controller mounting bracket. Once installed I had issue with getting power output and later realized (after a bit of troubleshooting) I had the circuit breakers protective cover on backwards (see below) and it was putting just enough pressure on the reset button to break the circuit. True Darwin moment..
2022-02-20 TJ Auxbean Switch Install 62.jpg


2022-03-05 TJ Auxbean Switch Install 85.jpg

All wires are covered with expandable mesh with heat shrink for protection. There was more than enough length in the harness that goes from the controller to the switch panel. I routed through the firewall at the drivers side and bundled the excess harness under the front of the center console.

The switch panel consists of eight backlit membrane switches, illuminated in cool blue.. a close match to the blue in the HVAC controls just above in the center stack. I mounted the switch panel on the knee bolster positioned just above the passenger airbag override. I chose to wire the switch panel backlight to the dash lights picking up power at the back of the HVAC controller. When dash lights are turned on the switch panel backlight illuminates at maximum intensity. With no labels on the switches, the backlight was way too bright. A manual dimmer option drops the intensity three levels, but once switch labels were applied the intensity was reduced enough that the dimming isn’t really needed. That said, I mounted a momentary switch on the backside of the steering column trim, right beside the headlight controller so it’s super easy to tap the button to dim the backlight at the same time I pull the headlight controller.
Switch panel mounted with test label
2022-03-13 TJ Digital Clock 04.jpg


IMG_3578.jpg


Momentary switch mounted under steering column trim
2022-03-27 Jeep TJ Auxbeam Switch 03.jpg


Final install of switch panel, illuminated at max brightness
2022-03-19 Auxbean Switch Panel 06.jpg

Aside from not being an OE look, this kit exceeded all expectations and met my other requirements. There are a few updated versions of this kit including bluetooth control of all the switches as well as tremendous control of panel color and brightness. I don't see the need for the BT interface, but the updated kit also includes auto-dimming based on ambient light level at the switch panel.. this I wish I had, but it certainly isn't necessary. I did reach out to Auxbeam for clarification on wiring and sad to say, they weren't very helpful because I couldn't verify I had made the original purchase. They also declined my request to purchase a second set of switch labels.

I'm not using the DIY Dual Switch Panel setup. If someone wants it for the price of shipping, message me. I think it should fit in a medium flat rate box. Not sure how many switches I have left and I used the voltage display elsewhere, but what I have is enough to get you started. Happy to PIF it in return for @jscherb's generosity in sharing this kit with me.
 
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Great write-up. I just did something very similar. The only issue Im still having is that the back lights on the switch are always on. I have tried tapping into every fuse in the engine bay fuse box, but they all seem hot all the time, I can't find one that's only on with ignition. Where did you run the tap a fuse? Thanks

PS new member so I couldn't PM you. Hope you see this
 
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I just installed the 8-gang Auxbeam last week. The packaging of the unit is nice and I like the small form factor of the switch panel. I ended up just screwing my panel right above the rearview mirror, against the plastic trim.

I only have a small concern with it. The entire circuit is potted, which means if a component on the circuit board goes bad it would be hard to desolder and replace. It would have been nice if they used small automotive relays without sockets to allow them to be removable, but I guess using, what I presume to be, mosfets helps keep the unit on the cheaper side. On the flip side, since it is potted, it should help with any vibrations and transferring to the circuit and causing any failures that way. Let us just hope that their circuit design holds up to their stated ratings. Without seeing the circuit and the components, I would say overall for the price its a really nice unit.
 
Great write-up. I just did something very similar. The only issue Im still having is that the back lights on the switch are always on. I have tried tapping into every fuse in the engine bay fuse box, but they all seem hot all the time, I can't find one that's only on with ignition. Where did you run the tap a fuse? Thanks

PS new member so I couldn't PM you. Hope you see this
For the switch panel backlight I picked up switched power from the dash lights. Specifically the orange wire in the center connector on the back of the HVAC controls. That powers the back lights for the dash so the Auxbeam swith panel back lights receive power only when the headlights switch is on.

Unfortunately it isn't dimmable with the dash lights.

IMG_3571.jpg
 
I'd like to install a 4 - 6 gang switch panel, but real estate in the TJ/LJ makes it very difficult. Although this one doesn't look factory, at least it's not obtrusive like many other options!
 
I'd like to install a 4 - 6 gang switch panel, but real estate in the TJ/LJ makes it very difficult. Although this one doesn't look factory, at least it's not obtrusive like many other options!
Plenty of spots this could be flush mounted.

Funny... as I have and use it more I see more spots it could be installed. Pretty happy with where it is.
 
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I just installed the 8-gang Auxbeam last week...

I only have a small concern with it. The entire circuit is potted, which means if a component on the circuit board goes bad it would be hard to desolder and replace. It would have been nice if they used small automotive relays without sockets to allow them to be removable...

For those who prefer relays to solid state switching, Auxbeam offers a 6-gang switch panel that uses relays:

relaybox1-jpg.265562


Last summer Auxbeam asked if I would review that 6-gang panel, which I agreed to do so they sent me one to test. I posted a detailed review here: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/auxbeam-6-gang-on-off-control-switch-panel-kit-review.53068/

I'd like to install a 4 - 6 gang switch panel, but real estate in the TJ/LJ makes it very difficult. Although this one doesn't look factory, at least it's not obtrusive like many other options!

I still have that 6-gang here and also have their newer 8-gang Bluetooth-enabled unit here (which they also sent me to review) so I took this photo this morning to show the two panels. The 6-gang might be less obtrusive and fit in more places than the 8-gang.

6gangAND8gangPanels.jpg
 
For the switch panel backlight I picked up switched power from the dash lights. Specifically the orange wire in the center connector on the back of the HVAC controls. That powers the back lights for the dash so the Auxbeam swith panel back lights receive power only when the headlights switch is on.

Unfortunately it isn't dimmable with the dash lights.

View attachment 329192
I got the RGB one, and it has a sensor to dim itself, there is no need to wire backlighting separately. But it does have a small red lead coming from the engine compartment control box which powers the whole thing on. ideally would go to switched power. I tried all the fuses is the engine compartment fuse box, and they all seem hot all the time. Is there somewhere in the engine bay to get switched power? thanks
 
From I recall of the install the red wire has to be connected to switched power or the backlight will stay on full time. I don’t have the auto dim feature. @jscherb did a full install of the unit you have. Sit tight.. he’ll likely post a response for you.
 
I got the RGB one, and it has a sensor to dim itself, there is no need to wire backlighting separately. But it does have a small red lead coming from the engine compartment control box which powers the whole thing on. ideally would go to switched power. I tried all the fuses is the engine compartment fuse box, and they all seem hot all the time. Is there somewhere in the engine bay to get switched power? thanks

I use a fuse tap in the panel behind the glovebox for switched power. A good one to use is the radio circuit. You can run a wire from a fuse tap in that position to the Auxbeam switch panel.

FuseTap.jpg


The Auxbeam switch panel doesn't require a lot of power, but for people who want to power larger things from a fuse tap, a relay controlled by the power from the fuse tap should be used to switch high power circuits. In my LJ the 40 amp Trail Kitchen battery charging circuit is controlled by a relay I added in the engine compartment powered from a fuse tap in the radio fuse position.
 
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I use a fuse tap in the panel behind the glovebox for switched power. A good one to use is the radio circuit. You can run a wire from a fuse tap in that position to the Auxbeam switch panel.

View attachment 329416

The Auxbeam switch panel doesn't require a lot of power, but for people who want to power larger things from a fuse tap, a relay controlled by the power from the fuse tap should be used to switch high power circuits. In my LJ the 40 amp Trail Kitchen battery charging circuit is controlled by a relay I added in the engine compartment powered from a fuse tap in the radio fuse position.
thanks. i was hopi g not to have to run it back into the cab, since the control box is in the engine bay. anything out there that’s switched power?
 
thanks. i was hopi g not to have to run it back into the cab, since the control box is in the engine bay. anything out there that’s switched power?

Not that I could find. There were a few options in the fuse block in the engine bay, but anything I could identify as a potentially switched source was empty. I already had a lead running into the cab through the firewall so I just snaked in along side that
 
Thanks. Ran it back to the glovebox fuse panel. matched the color to the shifter green for now. Pretty happy with the install. Now to hook up some accessories.
3683802B-D36A-4316-9B63-83F4B47C44EA.jpeg
 
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I built my own panel, but I had the same problem of finding switched power for the lighting & constant power for the things that required it. I used a tap a fuse into the fog lamp circuit (I don't actually have fog lamps) for constant 12V and another tap a fuse on the radio circuit for 12V switched. hth
 
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Thanks. Ran it back to the glovebox fuse panel. matched the color to the shifter green for now. Pretty happy with the install. Now to hook up some accessories.View attachment 329484
Nice! That looks sweet.

Be cautious of the order of the switches on the panel versus the location of the corresponding hookups on the control board. You’d think they would be in some logical order. 1-4 across the top of the switch panel mates to 1-4 left to right on the controller. That’s not how mine is. I made a schematic so I knew the accessories were connected to the proper sets on the controller so the accessories were in the order I wanted on the switch panel.
 
I really like this setup vs building my own. Can anyone speak to the difference between the GA80 and the GB80? the website says one is a "one sided outlet" vs a "two sided outlet" but they don't explain what that means or demonstrate it via photo. It looks like they have different controller boxes, but I don't really know what I am looking at to be able to understand the difference by sight. Why would the one sided outlet be $10 more than the two sided outlet?
 
The difference is how the power & ground for each accessory enter the fuse/controller board.
The One Sided Outlet is the one I have pictured above. All leads for each of the eight accessories as well as the main power and ground enter the controller from a single opening along one side of the controller.

The Two Sided Outlet has leads for four accessories entering on each side of the controller. Four on one side and four on the other.. and power on one side and ground on the other.

Look at the controller boards in the bottom left of each picture below.

This is the One Sided Outlet
71Q3SefdxaL_1024x1024.jpg



This is the Two Sided Outlet
71KoZUIunNL._AC_SL1300_1024x1024.jpg
 
The difference is how the power & ground for each accessory enter the fuse/controller board.
The One Sided Outlet is the one I have pictured above. All leads for each of the eight accessories as well as the main power and ground enter the controller from a single opening along one side of the controller.

The Two Sided Outlet has leads for four accessories entering on each side of the controller. Four on one side and four on the other.. and power on one side and ground on the other.

Look at the controller boards in the bottom left of each picture below.

This is the One Sided Outlet
View attachment 334457


This is the Two Sided Outlet
View attachment 334458

OOOOKKKKK, I see it now. Thanks, looks like the one sided also has a better resettable breaker design as well. Appreciate the clarification. I suck at wiring so this is going to be a saving grace for me.
 
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For those who prefer relays to solid state switching, Auxbeam offers a 6-gang switch panel that uses relays:


Last summer Auxbeam asked if I would review that 6-gang panel, which I agreed to do so they sent me one to test. I posted a detailed review here: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/auxbeam-6-gang-on-off-control-switch-panel-kit-review.53068/



I still have that 6-gang here and also have their newer 8-gang Bluetooth-enabled unit here (which they also sent me to review) so I took this photo this morning to show the two panels. The 6-gang might be less obtrusive and fit in more places than the 8-gang.

View attachment 329195

@MikekiM

This Auxbeam, I'm looking at it, and the cost is well over half the Spod. My question, if I'm running lights, are you seeing that a non direct 12v lead for the light is causing them to have a dimmer output? I have KC halogens, Windshield, full size floods on top of front bumper, and fog. If they're all on, are you seeing any degradation in light output by running off one?

Also, in the 2005 TJ I've got 3 switches that the previous owner put in, they work but look like crap. Does this controller look to fit in that spot If I found a way to get it mounted there, even good velcro on the surface?
 
@MikekiM

This Auxbeam, I'm looking at it, and the cost is well over half the Spod. My question, if I'm running lights, are you seeing that a non direct 12v lead for the light is causing them to have a dimmer output? I have KC halogens, Windshield, full size floods on top of front bumper, and fog. If they're all on, are you seeing any degradation in light output by running off one?

Also, in the 2005 TJ I've got 3 switches that the previous owner put in, they work but look like crap. Does this controller look to fit in that spot If I found a way to get it mounted there, even good velcro on the surface?

The relay control box will not be a meaningful source of voltage loss. You should be more concerned with the wire you use to connect things. For example, 8 feet of 16 gauge copper wire will lose about 1/3 volt at 5 amps:

VoltageLoss.jpg


I always use a voltage drop calculator when I'm planning wiring, here's the one pictured above: https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/wire/voltage-drop-calculator.html. There will always be some voltage drop in a wire, but with proper gauge wiring of shortest possible length, you can minimize voltage drop.

As far as mounting goes, the 6-gang unit is smaller and can fit in more places than the 8-gang. I am not currently using the 6-gang unit (or the other 8-gang they sent me to test) - after I testing I put the kits back in the boxes because I didn't have an immediate use for them, but just now I took the 6-gang panel out of the box and posed some photos in one of my 06's for you.

In the center stack, it's a bit too wide to fit on the right side (left photo); it would fit over the left side, but that would obscure the power outlet (center photo); but it would fit vertically on the right side (right photo).

6GangCtrStack.jpg


Around the instrument panel, it would fit nicely on the dash at the upper left side of the console (left photo); also nicely under the instrument panel at the lower right (center photo); or could be mounted at the upper right corner although there it would overhang the panel a bit (right photo).

6GangInstPanel.jpg


It fits very nicely in front of the emergency brake lever down on the center console...

6GangCtrConsole.jpg


It also would mount very nicely above the windshield. I'm holding it a bit off-center here because my Garmin GPS mounts in the center and that mount is in the way for the photo.

6GangOverhead.jpg


Happy to answer any other questions you have about this unit or photograph it (or the 8-gang panel) in any other locations you might want to try mounting it.