Adjustable Front Track Bar

Flivver250

Flivver250

TJ Addict
Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2018
Messages
2,416
Location
Dubai/Florida
I'm going to install the ZJ conversion one of these weekends when all the parts are here and I thought it would be a good time to install an adjustable track bar. I haven't paid much attention to the latest and greatest brands, and ofttimes focus on who will ship to a military postal address. I understand Rough Country brand is looked down on by some, but figured their unit should be an improvement over what is there. I did not do much due diligence during research. I finally opened the box and see this unit requires you drill the frame and install their bracket (see pix). Am I wrong in thinking that would be a weak link? Is that a typical installation requirement for most brands? Thanks. Art

RC Bracket.jpg
 
Assuming that is a front track bar, since you mentioned the ZJ conversion. You do NOT want to install a drop bracket on your front track bar. You will introduce yourself to bump steer, as your steering geometry will be off. Get about the same effect with a drop pitman arm.

As for drilling the taper out of the frame side, it is fairly common on upgraded track bars. I had to drill both ends for my Currie. Just note, that if you ever go to replace that track bar, you will no longer be able to use a stock track bar with the tie rod end on the frame side.

I don’t have any personal experience with rough country, but they have a poor enough reputation around here, that I would return that track bar, and get something with JJ’s, or a heim joint. I believe Currie, or maybe it’s Savvy makes a bar that you don’t have to drill.
 
Thanks. I did not do my research adequately and when I opened the box, the plug and play item I desired was not what I ordered. I can be my own worst enemy. Oh well, I waxed my TJ today for the first time. That at least went very well. My luck has been quite good lately so I was overdue for a self inflicted boning.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Grey_Machine7.3
I used a Rough country #7572 when I did my ZJ upgrade. Takes same taper on the frame side, just a 1 ton joint. Same as ZJ. Had to drill out the axle side bushing just a hair. Will depend on how much wear on your bolt. Took longer to get the drill than to drill it. Fits great and I have nothing but good to say. I didn't want to drill the taper out of the frame side mount and this is what several folks recommend. I would too. Highly.
 
x2 to the JKS track bar....almost all my parts are JKS....no drilling no problems great products
 
That track bar has a dropped mount for a dropped pitman arm. In theory it keeps everything more horizontal after a lift , to prevent bumpsteer from excessive track bar arc swing.

The mount squeezes the driver's side frame , and will pop from the track bar's force if you don't weld it ,at least it did in my case.

It's stout, but an adjustable track bar and regular pitman arm is preferrable and simpler if you don't get bump steer.

The above kit is needed for really high lifts (6") and works for lesser , but you don't need to solve geometry problems you don't have .

I replaced the bushings in mine the first year, just too soft , and it improved the steering noticeably. The bushings RC are made in Mexico and also have a center sleeve that slightly elongates , it's rolled , not milled. Not good on a track bar.
 
Last edited:
Actually, the Rough Country adjustable track bar is very good according to Dave at Jeep West. He said it has to do with the fact that it has very little interference on most setups, as it's designed very similar to the stock one, just adjustable.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BlueChip and AndyG
Chris said:
Actually, the Rough Country adjustable track bar is very good according to Dave at Jeep West. He said it has to do with the fact that it has very little interference on most setups, as it's designed very similar to the stock one, just adjustable.
Click to expand...
The big curve clears everything.

The bar is absolutely meaty.

If you replace the bushings and avoid the dropped mount , it's a good value.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
AndyG said:
The big curve clears everything.

The bar is absolutely meaty.

If you replace the bushings and avoid the dropped mount , it's a good value.
Click to expand...
How do you "avoid the dropped mount"? Do you mean avoid the model number that uses the dropped mount? Or would you modify something to replace the dropped mount somehow? I have this bar and like it *except for* the dropped frame side mount, the bolts of which loosen over time.

And please remind me, which replacement bushings are recommended?
 
John Young said:
How do you "avoid the dropped mount"? Do you mean avoid the model number that uses the dropped mount? Or would you modify something to replace the dropped mount somehow? I have this bar and like it *except for* the dropped frame side mount, the bolts of which loosen over time.

And please remind me, which replacement bushings are recommended?
Click to expand...
I got o Reilly’s replacements for stock for under 20 bucks and noticed a real difference .

That track bar may not mount like stock as it doesn’t have a stud at the end , that is a do all kit for all lift heights . You might ask Dave at Jeeps West if he knows a workaround, but I remember looking at mine and thinking I’d have to go JKS to bolt direct .

On the other hand , if you stop the poppping , which I did, it’s going to drive fantastic with the mount if everything else is right.
 
That Rough Country I showed fit perfectly. Very thick and not even close to rubbing anything. And I didn't have to modify anything on the Jeep. Easiest upgrade I've done. And a great value!
 
  • Like
Reactions: BlueChip
I was hoping to stay with a forged bar vs. DOM thinking forged is stronger. Maybe I'm thinking about this wrong?

Does anyone have any evidence (either anecdotal or empirical) to show that one (forged / DOM) is better than the other?
 
John Young said:
I was hoping to stay with a forged bar vs. DOM thinking forged is stronger. Maybe I'm thinking about this wrong?

Does anyone have any evidence (either anecdotal or empirical) to show that one (forged / DOM) is better than the other?
Click to expand...
Neither is gonna flex..,it’s all in the bushings and mounts if you have issues.
 
my apologies to bobthetj03 ….got my track bars mixed up with my control arms...JKS may require drilling... I went with rusty's off road track bars they are plug and play and beefy
 
Top Bottom
Back