Advice needed after 1.25" body lift and 1" MML

Raider

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Mar 8, 2019
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Ferndale, Ca
I have a 2004 wrangler SE, it already has a 3.5 short arm lift. Today I installed the 1.25 BL and 1" MML. I ran into a few issues (the install was easy).

Problems I'm face with now....
#1 Won't shift into 2nd, 4th or R
#2 rear of motor sits noticeably lower. I assume because of the T case drop that was installed at time of 3.5 lift (done previously to me purchasing the jeep).

Question #1 Will the tummy tuck fix these issues?
Question #2 If so, what skid would you recommend?
Question #3 Assuming the tummy tuck is the answer to my current problems, do I NOW have to replace factory control arms with adjustable?
Question #4 I know I'll need to do SYE along with everything else, in what order would you recommend doing all of this? Would it be mandatory that everything is done simultaneously or can it be done on phases so I can continue to drive my jeep as these issues are resolved BEFORE any serious wheeling?

Please be nice, I'm kind of an FNG OBVIOUSLY. Thanks in advance for your input!!!
 
Are you still running the tcase drop with the MML? That is kind of on the extreme side. I would suggest a SYE with 3.5” of lift.
 
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I haven't done anything with the Tcase drop yet. I was thinking that I'd order a new skid possibly tomorrow. Not sure what to order
 
Yes the tuck will address your shifting issues. Yes, when you do the tuck you'll need to do the SYE, which will require adjustable CAs.

However, you can likely also fix your shifting issues by moving the center console backward a bit and/or moving the tub shift boot back a bit and/or heating up and bending your shift lever to not make contact with those parts. Then you can do the tuck, control arms, and SYE together when you're ready.
 
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I have a 2004 wrangler SE, it already has a 3.5 short arm lift. Today I installed the 1.25 BL and 1" MML. I ran into a few issues (the install was easy).

Problems I'm face with now....
#1 Won't shift into 2nd, 4th or R
#2 rear of motor sits noticeably lower. I assume because of the T case drop that was installed at time of 3.5 lift (done previously to me purchasing the jeep).

Question #1 Will the tummy tuck fix these issues?
Question #2 If so, what skid would you recommend?
Question #3 Assuming the tummy tuck is the answer to my current problems, do I NOW have to replace factory control arms with adjustable?
Question #4 I know I'll need to do SYE along with everything else, in what order would you recommend doing all of this? Would it be mandatory that everything is done simultaneously or can it be done on phases so I can continue to drive my jeep as these issues are resolved BEFORE any serious wheeling?

Please be nice, I'm kind of an FNG OBVIOUSLY. Thanks in advance for your input!!!

Go out and enjoy the Jeep.

Myself, my Jeep came with a lift on stock control arms. A transfer case drop but(!) had a SYE and DC drive shaft. 2nd 4th and reverse all were hard to engage. Got my axles did with a re-gear shafts and lockers. My 4" lift was installed then and the transfer case was brought up by removing the spacers. 2nd 4th and reverse now were good. Then did the MML and body lift. Back to hard to engage those gears.

I believe that once I do the TT, those gears should be fine again.
 
The tcase drop is causing your jeep not to shift. You need to remove it. Remove the bolts and buy OEM bolts. Note that these bolts are not regular bolts you get from the hardware store. So remove bolts ,slide the tcase drop out, lift skid plate, bolt on the oem bolts.
 
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Yes the tuck will address your shifting issues. Yes, when you do the tuck you'll need to do the SYE, which will require adjustable CAs.

However, you can likely also fix your shifting issues by moving the center console backward a bit and/or moving the tub shift boot back a bit and/or heating up and bending your shift lever to not make contact with those parts. Then you can do the tuck, control arms, and SYE together when you're ready.
I made some minor modifications to the console and shift boot but I don't really like it. I'm afraid it will jump out of gear if I'm not paying attention. I think I'm going to order the terraflex belly up Tcase skid tomorrow and be done with that. From what I can find, I'm at that point in the project and I don't need to do anything more for the tummy tuck to work. I'm not really sure what mods will need to be done with the exhaust though. I assume just exhaust hangers?
 
You can run the stock skid plate until you get a new one.
If you need to drive the jeep Drop the skid plate, slide the tcase drop out, jack up the skid plate and you can put washers or spacers to make up for the longer bolts.
 
Go out and enjoy the Jeep.

Myself, my Jeep came with a lift on stock control arms. A transfer case drop but(!) had a SYE and DC drive shaft. 2nd 4th and reverse all were hard to engage. Got my axles did with a re-gear shafts and lockers. My 4" lift was installed then and the transfer case was brought up by removing the spacers. 2nd 4th and reverse now were good. Then did the MML and body lift. Back to hard to engage those gears.

I believe that once I do the TT, those gears should be fine again.
Thanks for the input! Gears and lockers will come after I get all of these issues fixed. I'm looking forward to jumping up to 35s or 37s. I'll likely go with a 5 or 6 inch lift as well. I'll figure that out when the time comes. Looks like I'll be doing the TT and SYE simultaneously.
 
You can run the stock skid plate until you get a new one.
If you need to drive the jeep Drop the skid plate, slide the tcase drop out, jack up the skid plate and you can put washers or spacers to make up for the longer bolts.
That's a great idea, thank you!!!
 
Thanks for the input! Gears and lockers will come after I get all of these issues fixed. I'm looking forward to jumping up to 35s or 37s. I'll likely go with a 5 or 6 inch lift as well. I'll figure that out when the time comes. Looks like I'll be doing the TT and SYE simultaneously.
6” lift is to much for our TJ’s. The way a 5” lift should be done is a combo of 4” lift and 1.25” body lift so 5.25” lift total. A lot of forum members run this combo. The most popular lifts are Currie/RockJock and Savvy. Savvy makes aluminum arms. Personally currie or savvy is the way to go if you plan to keep your jeep forever. You want parts that will lost just as long.
35” tire is the max size tire if you are running stock axles. 37” tires is a no go. You need other axles, bigger brakes and the list goes on. Even for 35s is a lot of work but buy the right parts and one day you will be ready for 35’s.
 
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I’d try taking out that T case drop and seeing if that helps your shifting.

Then you can figure out if you’ve got rear end vibes and go from there