Advice on adjustable control arm set-up

WHBNM

WHBNM

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So... I'm in the process of dialing in my Currie/Savvy 4" lift and wonder if having my front uppers extended 3/4"-1" past the jam (more like 1") nut is acceptable or can be improved upon. I know that ca length is a byproduct of setup and what you've got, not expecting them to be equal.
Here's what I've got -
- centered axle laterally w/ adjustable track bar
- checked new steering and track bar clearance. Done.
-Cycled susp. And centered bumps at full stuff. Done.
- checked bump for shocks and tires. Done.
-adjust pinon angle (pinon 15*/ ds 10*) Done. Have not driven yet.
- squared axle to frame, same # both sides.
Should I worry about this? I've read where not more than 3/4" of threads should be exposed. Already lengthen lowers and shorten uppers equal amount to buy back as much as I could. I think.
20200531_185735.jpg
20200531_185812.jpg

Can anyone ease my mind or give me a task? Thanks in advance.
 
jjvw said:
Looks fine to me.
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Thanks for looking. Definitely value your opinion. I just wish the uppers weren't so extended but seemed to be neccessary to adjust the other parameters where they need to be. At least until I drive it. Itll probably drift into oncoming traffic and/or vibrate like hell. 🙄
 
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Yes it's the front.
I was at 12.5 ds and 7.5 pinon prior before I touched it and it drove really nicely so I tried to mimic that difference. Certainly yield to your guys expertise though. You recommend straighter? Sorry for my ignorance on this. Thanks for the help.
 
Mine on 35s has the pinon about 1deg down. Yesterday I was driving 75-80 for over an hour to/from the trail with one hand on the wheel.
 
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Thanks, that should buy back some real estate on the uppers for me. Exactly the info I was needing. So much of what I read had 5* as the number. Or I just confused myself.
 
WHBNM said:
Yes it's the front.
I was at 12.5 ds and 7.5 pinon prior before I touched it and it drove really nicely so I tried to mimic that difference. Certainly yield to your guys expertise though. You recommend straighter? Sorry for my ignorance on this. Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...
Your goal is to get angles so that the ujoints are happy and vibe free while having as much caster as possible. Lower pinion = more caster. Pinion angle being same as driveshaft angle = happy ujoints. I would just make them the same personally. Ex: driveshaft 10* and pinion 10*. If it feels squirrelly on the steering then decrease pinion angle in .5* increments and see if you can get good steering with no vibes.
 
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starkey480 said:
Your goal is to get angles so that the ujoints are happy and vibe free while having as much caster as possible. Lower pinion = more caster. Pinion angle being same as driveshaft angle = happy ujoints. I would just make them the same personally. Ex: driveshaft 10* and pinion 10*. If it feels squirrelly on the steering then decrease pinion angle in .5* increments and see if you can get good steering with no vibes.
Click to expand...

He'll be chewing through u joints at 10deg.
 
starkey480 said:
Your goal is to get angles so that the ujoints are happy and vibe free while having as much caster as possible. Lower pinion = more caster. Pinion angle being same as driveshaft angle = happy ujoints. I would just make them the same personally. Ex: driveshaft 10* and pinion 10*. If it feels squirrelly on the steering then decrease pinion angle in .5* increments and see if you can get good steering with no vibes.
Click to expand...
Thanks so much.
 
starkey480 said:
10* from the ground not at the ujoint. What I said means 0* at pinion.
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Relative to the ground doesn't matter. That particular measurement is going to shift with the amount of lift, rake, mml and raised skid. If I were to guess, mine is about 20-21deg relative to the ground, but that says nothing about where the u joints are sitting within the driveline.
 
I took as parallel to each other with pinon slightly lower if needed. From playing with it today that will be roughly 18* relative to the ground. I believe.
 
jjvw said:
Relative to the ground doesn't matter. That particular measurement is going to shift with the amount of lift, rake, mml and raised skid. If I were to guess, mine is about 20-21deg relative to the ground, but that says nothing about where the u joints are sitting within the driveline.
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We are saying same thing. Pinion should be 0* to the driveshaft. But they still have an angle relative to level which in my example was 10*.
 
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set the lowers at 16.25" and set the caster at 6.5-8 degrees. don't even bother worrying about the pinion/driveshaft angle. if it vibrates there with a 4" lift, you need some work done on the shaft. it's not a pinion angle problem.
 
David Kishpaugh said:
set the lowers at 16.25" and set the caster at 6.5-8 degrees. don't even bother worrying about the pinion/driveshaft angle. if it vibrates there with a 4" lift, you need some work done on the shaft. it's not a pinion angle problem.
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Where do we measure caster from?
 
You can have WAY more than 3/4" exposed thread. As long as the Male threads fully engaged the female thread of the arm then you are fine.
I've seen/used adjustable links with over 6" exposed thread on both ends used in applications with much higher stress loads on them.
An adjustable link with only 3/4" of allowable adjustment isn't really adjustable.
 
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