Alex01 Silver Sport Build Thread

[Alex01]

I wish I would have know that before spending hours making an alum. filler to go behind the tailgate support to make it match the corner. I may look at removing both parts and drop a couple lbs

If you're referring to the MORryde you can remove the side support with the corners since the corner will take the weight but I asked Blaine and he said even with the tailgate skin you still need the MORryde bracket behind the spare.

 

[JMT]

I wish I would have know that before spending hours making an alum. filler to go behind the tailgate support to make it match the corner. I may look at removing both parts and drop a couple lbs

Could add the Savvy Tailgate Armor. It's sub $100 shipped. Then your hinges will be perfect. However, I found the thickness discrepancy was not sufficient to cause any real issue between the hinges on the tub and the tailgate. If I'm not following what you're saying about the aluminum filler, I apologize!

 

[Alex01]

Drivers side mocked up.

 

[Plumber1]

If you're referring to the MORryde you can remove the side support with the corners since the corner will take the weight but I asked Blaine and he said even with the tailgate skin you still need the MORryde bracket behind the spare.

Could add the Savvy Tailgate Armor. It's sub $100 shipped. Then your hinges will be perfect. However, I found the thickness discrepancy was not sufficient to cause any real issue between the hinges on the tub and the tailgate. If I'm not following what you're saying about the aluminum filler, I apologize!

The spacer I made is installed behind the tailgate reinforcement to hold it out the same amount as the thickness of the alum. corner. So it sounds like I can remove the added hinge support, since the corners would provide that support and the spacer since it will no longer be needed also. I hope the paint is still in good shape when I remove the hinge support bracket.

 

[JMT]

The spacer I made is installed behind the tailgate reinforcement to hold it out the same amount as the thickness of the alum. corner. So it sounds like I can remove the added hinge support, since the corners would provide that support and the spacer since it will no longer be needed also. I hope the paint is still in good shape when I remove the hinge support bracket.

Yeah, my paint on the tailgate in general was poor, hence the tailgate armor. If I eventually add the corner armor, the hinges will sit even, but right now I don’t have any problems. The difference is minor.

 

[jjvw]

Could you measure the inside tub backer plates for me, thickness too? Also, how thick is the steel slider material?

 

[Alex01]

Could you measure the inside tub backer plates for me, thickness too? Also, how thick is the steel slider material?

19"x3" thick 3/8

Steel is 3/16

 

[DrDmoney]

Looks like fiberglass

definitely has a woven mat from your pictures, rub some of the dust on you and see if it makes you itchy.

 

[jjvw]

19"x3" thick 3/8

Steel is 1/4

Very helpful!

 

[DrDmoney]

While we are reverse engineering things, is the aluminum angle under the steel piece a formed angle or an extrusion? also what is the thickness?

 

[jjvw]

While we are reverse engineering things, is the aluminum angle under the steel piece a formed angle or an extrusion? also what is the thickness?

It's a formed angle

 

[Alex01]

While we are reverse engineering things, is the aluminum angle under the steel piece a formed angle or an extrusion? also what is the thickness?

The aluminum backer looks to be 1/4", I can measure when I get home. It also has a 3/8th flat bar welded to the bottom between the tub and backing plate.

 

[Alex01]

definitely has a woven mat from your pictures, rub some of the dust on you and see if it makes you itchy.

I'm not that curious.

 

[Alex01]

Corners came today and made it on the jeep. It wasn't that hard but the drivers side needed a bit of grinding to make the gap from the slider to the corner armor look good. Blaine said in Mike's thread about the install that it's a common issue he runs into and is a sign of a slightly bent tub.

All in all very happy with the product. Still waiting for the aluminum for the tailgate and the valance that goes under it. I ordered 2 days ago so likely next week. I also called GR today to get a new license plate mount and they said the fenders were in production and would ship out in 2 weeks. Around 4 pm though, I got an email from FedEx that I have 2 packages coming from Genright that should arrive Saturday.

 

[mattcogdell]

What is the open hole just rear of the sider? Install looks great. Will you be reinstalling the emission related components you removed from the passenger rear wheel well? Did you end up trimming the rear of the corner armor any to open up the wheel well any?

 

[Vasq]

What is the open hole just rear of the sider? Install looks great. Will you be reinstalling the emission related components you removed from the passenger rear wheel well? Did you end up trimming the rear of the corner armor any to open up the wheel well any?

the hole is there to allow access to the factory rivnut for the flares.

I'm wondering about the square cut outs?

 

[mattcogdell]

the hole is there to allow access to the factory rivnut for the flares.

I'm wondering about the square cut outs?

Square cut outs are for the hinges

 

[mattcogdell]

Alex are you getting any rubbing on the shock body? What wheel BS are you running?

 

[Alex01]

What is the open hole just rear of the sider? Install looks great. Will you be reinstalling the emission related components you removed from the passenger rear wheel well? Did you end up trimming the rear of the corner armor any to open up the wheel well any?

I'm not sure why they added the square cutouts. The corner didn't have them before so I don't get why it would be needed for the corner armor.

Since I have a 2001 all my emissions components are under the hood, not behind the rear corner. I'll likely need to move things around though in order to get the new GR inner fenders, PSC, and rubicon locker pumps to fit nicely together.

I have not cycled the suspension yet so I'm not sure what needs to be cut. I will cycle before painting though.

Alex are you getting any rubbing on the shock body? What wheel BS are you running?

View attachment 221846

My wheels are 15x8 procomp 69's with 3.75 backspacing. The shock body didn't have any rubbing when we installed the outboard. When I installed the rear AR though I needed to add .25" spacers to the wheels to keep the links from hitting the tire at full articulation.

 

[jesseshoots]

I'm not sure why they added the square cutouts. The corner didn't have them before so I don't get why it would be needed for the corner armor.

Late model hinges had a bulge on the backside that went into an indentation in the tub. Early model hinges don't have that and they're flat. I'm not sure what year the change was made.