what's the most time efficient way to get to that NSS switch, don't want to remove more than I need to, nor fight getting to it without removing enough of what I need to.
Another Jeep Won't Turn Over Thread
- Thread starter dirtslinger1
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what's the most time efficient way to get to that NSS switch, don't want to remove more than I need to, nor fight getting to it without removing enough of what I need to.
I can think of a reason.... I had an NSS that let me start in any gear, and also no backup lights, and also no torque converter lockup. All those wires run right alongside each other over the top of the transmission. Turns out I had several shorts in that section of harness, and one side effect was the CEL for the TCC lockup. I had to fix a bunch of wiring, but it it corrected all those issues.
I didn't see up to this point where you had a CEL, what code is it throwing?
I didn't see it until I actually started it and sat in it to move it back into the garage. I was headed out of town so I just locked the garage and left, I'm headed back out the next weekend and taking a code reader with me. I'm going out to specifically get this thing back to normal, so I'll report back.
copy that. The random dash warning lights coming on and the schizophrenic behavior you mentioned has also caught me out more than once, and each time it was my battery. Even if the battery was showing 12.x volts with a voltmeter.
Good luck.
OK, I just got out here, hooked up my code reader, and it's P1899, Neutral Safety Switch.
Fuse 6 confirmed that it has 12V constant, and fuse 20 in the glove box I get 12V when cranking.
So now, onto the NSS, but I cannot find this damn thing. is it on the Driver passenger side?
Fuse 6 confirmed that it has 12V constant, and fuse 20 in the glove box I get 12V when cranking.
So now, onto the NSS, but I cannot find this damn thing. is it on the Driver passenger side?
It’s on the drivers side, just above the lip of the pan, towards the back half of the trans case. You only have 2 connectors on the trans (2 more if you include the transfer case): the NSS has 3 wires, the torque converter solenoid is on the back corner of the trans case, has 2 wires, and is REALLY hard to get to with the skid & front driveshaft in place.
The NSS I want to say is right around the edge of the skid plate. Just put your fingers on the lip of the case and work your way around.
The NSS I want to say is right around the edge of the skid plate. Just put your fingers on the lip of the case and work your way around.
Found it, I jumped the center to ground and the jeep starts right up, now I gotta get this damn thing out
The NSS switch? Yeah, it unscrews but I believe you need a 1" wrench or crow foot. My sockets wouldn't fit over it, but neither could I get a wrench on mine. I don't remember why I thought I needed to recently.... when I had my trans out it was easy to deal with. I guess the NSS sits above the resting level of the fluid? I know you can replace the shift selector shaft seal and it will only ooze fluid, so the resting level must be around that level.
Unless you meant the pigtail? I think it actually has a plug on the other end so you can unplug it, but I might be thinking of something else under there.
No, the NSS, I used a crowfoot, got it loose, then tightened it back up unitl I pick up a new one tomorrow.
On the neutral safety switch verify the wire color but it should be the center pin that needs to be grounded to start the vehicle. Make sure it’s in park with the brake set. The two outer wires should be the reverse light switch.
I believe you need a 1 1/16” oil pressure socket. This socket is 1” & 1 1/16”
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMDPC6/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I verified it yesterday, when I grounded the center pin, the jeep starts right up, and I was able to get it out using a 1" crow foot. My check engine light also was P1899, which was a NSS code.
Still showing an ABS light on the dash, but I'll tackle that next, unfortunately that doesn't come up on the code reader.
I have an oil pressure socket, and I know I didn't use it to remove my NSS. Maybe I should have? I did also just remember that I bought a set of crow foots (crow's feet? crow feet?) that included a 1" for this very purpose, but iirc the trans case or cooler lines or something prevented me from getting the foot on there.
But super glad you got your jeep back up and running. Always fun to read a thread that has a happy ending.
The Crow foot, fit the NSS, but there was an oil line in the way for putting a ratchet on it. I was able to find an open end wrench that I could get on the little tab of the crow foot, and loosen it with leverage, tightening was a little different, I could only get it fairly snug, so then I used a 3/8 extension, and tapped on the tab to tighten it more, I think it's good, but I'll keep an eye out for leaks.
Make sure you dry everything off down there before you drive it. Nothing worse than finding a leak and realizing you didn't know if it was a new or pre-existing leak, and you'll struggle to source your leak if it wasn't wiped down & dry ahead of time. There is a metal washer thing that sort of seals up the NSS opening, hopefully you used it.
Good luck, and report back good or bad!
She's all cleaned up, and the washer thing was black, I thought it was plastic, but either way thats in.
While I was out here working on her, I decided it was time to mount my new to me Trailready beadlock
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