Any carpenters here know how to fix a rotten door?

Awesome. This makes me much more comfortable tearing out the rest.

I think you had previously mentioned coating the end grain in titebond. Any preference between it and the polyurethane construction glue? Or more just about what's nearby at the moment?
Either - any exterior grade adhesive
 
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Either - any exterior grade adhesive

Thanks for all of the answers! I'm learning a lot. There's definitely a lot of tricks of the trades that aren't obvious.

A friend stopped by yesterday and glanced at my house and asked how many times I've done this type of repair. To which I replied "this is the furthest I've ever gotten". :oops: :ROFLMAO:
 
Thanks for all of the answers! I'm learning a lot. There's definitely a lot of tricks of the trades that aren't obvious.

A friend stopped by yesterday and glanced at my house and asked how many times I've done this type of repair. To which I replied "this is the furthest I've ever gotten". :oops: :ROFLMAO:
I tell my new guys to say “ feels like all my life “ when clients ask 😅
 
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@AndyG We're considering replacing all of the siding with Everlog fiber concrete siding (we still need to look at a model home to be certain this is what we want). Scheduling (they can't deliver until the start of our winter), budgeting, and time available to work on this are all factors we're dealing with since we have another million house projects to work on.

So my question for you is this: So that we can enjoy the benefits of new windows this year, can we replace the windows now and only add house wrap around the windows (not the entire wall, just leave an extra foot or so around each window). Leaving most of our siding up. And a year from now tape in more house wrap around it? If taping seams is problematic, the other option is to remove all siding this year and leave the house wrap exposed for 1 year until we can put siding up. Is this a bad idea and we should wait to install the windows until next year when we can do it all at once?
 
@AndyG We're considering replacing all of the siding with Everlog fiber concrete siding (we still need to look at a model home to be certain this is what we want). Scheduling (they can't deliver until the start of our winter), budgeting, and time available to work on this are all factors we're dealing with since we have another million house projects to work on.

So my question for you is this: So that we can enjoy the benefits of new windows this year, can we replace the windows now and only add house wrap around the windows (not the entire wall, just leave an extra foot or so around each window). Leaving most of our siding up. And a year from now tape in more house wrap around it? If taping seams is problematic, the other option is to remove all siding this year and leave the house wrap exposed for 1 year until we can put siding up. Is this a bad idea and we should wait to install the windows until next year when we can do it all at once?
Its doable-

Im in the middle of a build right now -

There is a process for windows we use you will like - be thinking if you would be willing to pull the new ones again later to as you do housewrap prior to new siding- for a full system approach

That will affect my answer

In the mean time, give me a day or two to walk you through a set up that will laugh at the elements- and I realize you guys get weather that tries to kill you.
 
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There is a process for windows we use you will like - be thinking if you would be willing to pull the new ones again later to as you do housewrap prior to new siding- for a full system approach

My only concern is damaging the windows by pulling them. When I pulled the garage windows 2 of 3 broke — but they had used too many nails and buried them in deep which required a lot of tugging and for some reason I couldn't remove them using the oscillating tool. I'd rather store the windows for 12 months than break them.

In the mean time, give me a day or two to walk you through a set up that will laugh at the elements- and I realize you guys get weather that tries to kill you.

😃 I'm listening! Feel free to give me a call to discuss once you have your thoughts together.

In the meantime, I'll work on repairing the mold damage and spray foaming the crawlspace rim joists so HVAC can still be installed next month.
 
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My only concern is damaging the windows by pulling them. When I pulled the garage windows 2 of 3 broke — but they had used too many nails and buried them in deep which required a lot of tugging and for some reason I couldn't remove them using the oscillating tool. I'd rather store the windows for 12 months than break them.



😃 I'm listening! Feel free to give me a call to discuss once you have your thoughts together.

In the meantime, I'll work on repairing the mold damage and spray foaming the crawlspace rim joists so HVAC can still be installed next month.
Cool, we will get you through it Tox-
 
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Are your new windows new construction windows with flanges attached
 
We pulled the trim board off the bottom of a window. A little water spot on the OSB but nothing concerning per say (but obviously should be replaced when the window comes out).

Are your new windows new construction windows with flanges attached

The order form from Pella lists "Foldout Fins".

We were thinking about this some more and maybe we should change the plan and wait to install the new windows until next year so we can do the new siding immediately after?

This year:
  • Replace rotten wood and board up door.
  • Insulate rim joists and encapsulate crawlspace.
  • HVAC install

Next year:
  • House wrap
  • Windows
  • Siding
  • Roof
 
We pulled the trim board off the bottom of a window. A little water spot on the OSB but nothing concerning per say (but obviously should be replaced when the window comes out).



The order form from Pella lists "Foldout Fins".

We were thinking about this some more and maybe we should change the plan and wait to install the new windows until next year so we can do the new siding immediately after?
If you think you’re going to do that it would be to your advantage to talk to the rep and ask him to change the order to with fins

This gives you an extension to fasten the window in with and a positive way to flash the window on the sides and top
 
If you think you’re going to do that it would be to your advantage to talk to the rep and ask him to change the order to with fins

This gives you an extension to fasten the window in with and a positive way to flash the window on the sides and top

So "fins" instead of "fold out fins"?

And wait until next year to install?
 
Keep it like it is

I misread earlier

Was out in the sun-

Foldout fins are good
 
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The old band was mounted to the concrete foundation with bolts sticking out of the concrete. Since I'm not replacing the entire span, what is the best way to secure this replacement section?
 
The old band was mounted to the concrete foundation with bolts sticking out of the concrete. Since I'm not replacing the entire span, what is the best way to secure this replacement section?
You can horseshoe cut the new plate around the threaded stud and rebolt it - if the anchor is gone you can use a 1/2” x 3” redhead anchor into the plate if the cavity is cement filled.

Snug it but dont go crazy on it.
 
Finally nice weather again.

@AndyG any ideas how mold could have gotten here at the top corners of the door? No evidence of water dripping.

20220521_140610.jpg


Pulled the jack stud and insulation out of the header:

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20220521_150231.jpg
 
My best guess is that moisture evaporated up around the other studs and collected along the top of the header where there's no way to drain (there was another board sealing up the bottom of the header).

Should I pop more osb off to get a look above and behind it to make sure it's not coming from the roof? Or just spot treat and be done?
 
My best guess is that moisture evaporated up around the other studs and collected along the top of the header where there's no way to drain (there was another board sealing up the bottom of the header).

Should I pop more osb off to get a look above and behind it to make sure it's not coming from the roof? Or just spot treat and be done?
I think your evaluation is correct- I’d likely treat it, use closed cell spray foam instead of fiberglass insulation, then coat it all with liquid waterproofing or use flashing tape-

Once I get time to go through our window / door flashing sequence here for you it will you more comfortable-

I am driving back from a jeep event in Georgia- Are you trying to get the door back in this evening or tomorrow?